Air cooled this time. I'm trying to figure out what to do with the sides. They need venting, and are really long and featureless. @MLyons - My attempt at ASA in the garage had the machine begging me to open the lid. At your current temps, you are at risk of cooking the mainboard too. I cooked a CNC motor controller in similar weather.
You don't need to open the lid for ASA. The centauri carbon squeals at you because, at higher chamber temps, you run the risk of PLA softening and gumming up the extruder gears. ASA doesn't give a damn but the printer still throws up the warning.
Polymaker are selling their PolyDryer boxes cheap on Amazon right now - £26.40ea Note: these are the dry boxes and do not include the optional heater unit. I picked up another two, natch.
Ok, who here is using a chamber heater? What model? What do you think? I like printing in ASA and, despite early success with after my CANVAS upgrade, every print I tried yesterday either warped or straight up detached from the bed. This included attempts with brims and "Eleglue". I left the machine pre-heating with a 100 degree bed up to 40 degrees chamber temp and the build plates were clean (before schlepping glue all over them). I like the look (and price) of the little Chitu heater but the integrated air filtration of the Panda Breath really has me second guessing. Open to more recommendations too. [edit] fuq it, I ordered a Panda Breath
Deeplee PLA is utter dogshit. Well, no, not really.. it's eh.. fine. It is, however, wound like dogshit. I'm 22 hours into a seven hour print, because the reel keeps snatching and binding up the filament; so the printer either freaks out completely and sits idle until I free it up and resume, or it tugs at it for a few minutes to release it then runs a little longer. Rinse and repeat. The only silver lining is the CANVAS system detecting the issue and stopping, and subsequently resuming flawlessly after being sat idle for hours and I unbind the fuqqing filament (again). I do really love this printer. You have to remember how little it cost: £299 plus £38 for the CANVAS. Yeah, I've spent a lot more on spare build plates, half a dozen hot ends, filament dryers and boojie dryboxes and upwards of forty reels of filament. That's just me - I tend to commit to a hobby in a big way So the shitlist grows: No no-name ABS No Overture PETG No Deeplee reels.
Well, I just got through 2 reels of geeetech that looked like they might bind up, but the reels are so floppy it didn't. Them thar floppy reels are probably why they were wound funny. -Also; Holy Hell, my support printing is dodgy. Sometimes it's perfect, sometimes I get strings for a part wall.
yup. I found that with my Deeplee PETG spool. Except my printer just messes up if it’s caught. I stick to SUNLU now, and polymaker for the HT.
Right, I need a favour, sort of. I've been pissing around with support settings and I've landed at what I think are pretty bloody good results: Clean breakaway of support material with little to no scarring. So, I'm curious to see if this has utility beyond my printer setup and I'd like someone to try to see if this works for them. Changes are minimal and seemingly very effective: The only one to watch is bottom Z distance - default is .2 but .21 helps for some reason. .22 and above can lead to some support bases detaching from the print bed, so play with this at your peril. The only other setting that could be included is support ironing, which can help with scarring, but the other changes seem to render it moot in my testing. The only significant changes from standard are the Z distances, number of interface layers and using a rectilinear interface pattern. Very simple, but took several hours and a lot of filament to arrive at. I will just add that I have only tested this with PLA and PETG variants so far, but the results have been pretty good. If you get a chance to try it, please let me know what you think.
The geeetech spools were also wound on the spools backward. There was an indent in the bottom for the start of the line and the labels face the machine the way mine were wound. I think they just need to slap the new guy a bit.
Not done any printing for a bit... a print I did what feels like weeks ago, failed and ended up causing the filament to enshroud the whole hotend. LOVELY! Tried getting as much off as I could but its damaged the thermistor and nozzle bit. So need replacements. And I had my op 3/4 weeks ago, so i've been twiddling and looking at other 3D printers. Does anyone have a Snapmaker U1 here? - And/or have your own thoughts on it? I always was going to be looking for another more modern printer - and I had my eyes on the H2C (shock horror down with BambuLabs scum!) - but it is expensive. The U1 is cheaper.. but not enclosed. I'd like to be able to do ABS. I know the U1 can do TPU which I also really want to do. Shame about the smaller sized bed though. - But really, the only big problem is not being enclosed. And the filament being on the outside.
There's also the flash forge creator 5 and 5 pro to consider. I'd be leaning more towards the pro but both look like good value
Sold. By time I can get one, it'll have a lot more info and use about. Does look very good for the price though.
Is there anywhere i can get a simple box printed for a steam deck and dock to sit in to mount on the end of my sons bed? He's capable of drawing up the file he reckons so its just getting it printed. Is it an expensive thing to do as well? I may well make something out of wood so I'm just checking options really.
Wouldn’t be that expensive, depending on size - link a file or what he’s drawn up to be printed and people could give you a guess. If I had mine working I’d have a go for free for you haha.
Thank you I will get back to you guys. Just looked at blender and I'm instantly lost and my son has a D n D session tonight
