Funnies aside, for as much as I dislike Overture PETG, I can't really complain about their 95A TPU. I've had better results than I managed with Elegoo's own 95A. Still feeds through the canvas, just like the Elegoo stuff but the prints have been solid with really good layer adhesion. Obviously, it takes forever to print but that's just TPU, it seems; and why I still fugging hate it.
I was looking at some of those shorter designs today. I mean, I don't need one. It only drops the height by three to four inches but I'm only 5'8" and I need every inch I can find*. *I see you, Dan.
im on the fence about getting another 3d printer, i had a saturn 1 back in the day and boy did we fight, obviously things have moved on since both from a tech and software point of view, im on the fence on pulling the trigger on a photon p1, anyone have any experience with anycubic?
**** it, seeing a deal for the printer and 4 bottles of resin for under 500 i pulled the trigger on the P1, should be here in the next few, look forward to seeing how much things have moved on since my old saturn.
I don't think resin printers have moved on quite as much as filament printers, but things like release mechanisms and self-levelling have changed the game. One thing that really has changed my resin prints is to install a chamber heater. A heater set to about 25 degrees give much more consistent results - and a much better success rate.
I’ve never actually tried this… But my gut feeling is that I think the shape would be pretty challenging… For the best surface finish, I think you’d have to print the cap “right side up”, as it were. But you’d need a lot of support material in the void inside the cap, which could get tricky to remove. And you’d still have pronounced layer lines on the top, even at something like 0.08 layer height. They might not be easy to see, but you’ll probably feel it - I know it’d definitely bother me. Printing upside down would reduce support material, but would be even worse for surface quality. You’d almost certainly need some support material to account for the slightly concave shape of the cap. That’s going to be even worse in terms of surface finish, because now you’ve got to worry about scarring from support material. Either way, you’re likely to need some calibration test prints in order to get the right friction fit on the switch stem. All FDM materials will exhibit some small amount of creep; a part that’s supposed to be 5mm wide might actually end up being 5.1mm. I found this reference for Cherry MX stem dimensions and those tolerances look pretty tight: 1.17mm +/-0.02mm. That’s within the capabilities of a decent modern FDM machine, but it almost certainly won’t be a one-shot deal. I’ll shortly be setting up a test print for a tabletop miniature base - if I can find a decent keycap model I’ll chuck that on the plate as well and see what comes out. I was planning on printing at 0.08 layer height, so a decorated 32mm mini base was already going to take about an hour and a half anyway. I don’t mind sacrificing some extra time for a keycap, I’m actually pretty curious how well it’ll work.
This is mostly correct, but with a 0.2mm nozzle its fairly ok, just takes ages. You want to set the smallest layer height as possible and brims on to stop creep. I've done perfect miniature bases like this, and miniature terrain, it just takes ages due to the small nozzle! I do engineering grade prints on my CC with a 0.4mm nozzle, with brims its surprisingly accurate!
Yeah, I read about the tolerances etc - I've seen recommendations on printing the keycap at an angle or some sort - then again, lots say should use a resin printer... which.. doesn't help when it is an FDM i'll have. Still ummmmiinng and arrrrrrring between U1 and C5 -_- making my head hurt. Heavily leaning toward U1... open source, more community modding etc I think - But I do need to get the lid and heater to do ASA/ABS etc Which I really want to do.
Not looked it up any more tbh. But not waiting that long anyway… Oh, I didn’t. 3/4 days away from owning a beautiful U1. Just have to print a lid/find cheap one - and mod the filament to come from one place. My new Sovol SH03. Exciiiiiiiteeeeddddddd.
Yup, pre-ordered. Not available until November. Wondering what accessories to get straight off the bat. Weird i've never even looked at TPU rolls. Didn't realise it is usually in less than 1kg spools and it is so much more expensive. But tbh i've got enough filament in PLA/PETG to test it out and mess with. Before I spend on real stuff like ASA/TPU etc to make the NAS racks and bits. Debating whether some 0.2/0.6 tool heads would be any use for me. Feel like 0.6/0.8 might be good for doing the Homeracker setups a bit faster.
I keep a 0.2 and a 0.8 in case I ever need them (I haven't yet). The rest are 0.4 and 0.6. TBH, I think .8 would be useful for better strength in vase mode but I haven't tried it yet.
Think I’m going to get a set of each size. Because I just know I’m going to want to try detail with 0.2 and faster print for big things in 0.6/0.8. So might aswell. Just deciding between aliexpress or ones off the main site/resellers. But then…. WOOOOOOOO currently calibrating. 15 min so far. But fun putting it together. To think I see some reviews be ‘oh, this [insert printer here] is better than the U1, because the U1 you have to screw a few bits in.’ pfftttt easier than 132.
well ive been playing with the P1 for a few days and i must say i am very impressed, i dont follow the 3d printing scene too closely so coming from a saturn 1 this is like jumping up from a car to the starship enterprise.
Looking at mods to do to put filament below the U1 in the SovolSH03. Unfortunately not found anything specifically for that dryer. And after using the printer.. my idea to print a nice dryer shelf/printer shelf-support thing from the homeracker idea. Don’t think it will work. It’s SO jiggly. Ordered it before the printer. Still not arrived. definitely need a dryer to hold filament while printing. Having it on the spool things just doesn’t work, I’m getting stringing so soon after it comes out of the dryer I have. Not affecting actual prints currently though. But printing well otherwise. Got some TPU on way. ;D
anyone have any good tips on removing resin supports without damaging the surface of mini's? it's easy to clean up but i'll take aany advice that can save me time on post processing
