Hello all, first time posting on here! I’m finally ready to start my next case mod, this time for my own personal use. It took a few months to design due to a lack of free time. I wanted a case that is a little unique that incorporates straight lines and angles that I could modify to be as minimalistic as possible (including hiding and organizing ALL wires and controllers). I chose to use the Cougar Blazer open frame case. I modeled the entire case in Fusion 360 3D modeling program. From there I designed additional parts and modifications to the case. The main modification will include: 1. A custom dual loop distro plate with two integrated D5 pumps including Digital RGB’s and an integrated 7-inch touch screen status monitor with PETG hard line tubing. The top of the monitor cover will also incorporate a hidden power button for the pc using a micro-switch. All wires, rgb's and all the "messy" stuff will be covered with aluminum plate (shown in black) 2. A custom aluminum vertical GPU bracket that will sit at an angle. Also the renders show a different GPU (a EVGA 3080) I was initially planning to use that I have previously modded, and was going to mod it again to fit more into this design(as shown in the renders), but then I got the AMD gpu. I did not update the renders since it was a lot of work to update the model, and I allready had the model of the old GPU. First, I 3d printed the bracket, which is made out of 3 separate pieces to make sure it fits and the angles were right… I was off on one of the angles, so a slight adjustment in the model, and the new part fitted perfectly 3. An aluminum PSU cover that will also integrate and hide an internal USB hub and a device to connect the status monitor HDMI to internal USB (this way I don’t have to run a HDMI cable to the back of the GPU). 4. And custom wire management with aluminum covers and power cable combs to minimize the visibility of all possible wires even at the back of the case which will integrate a Corsair rgb/fan controller. The cover on the inside of the case will also hide all the wires from the front IO of the case. Most parts will be made using my CNC out of aluminum and acrylic, and some 3d printed out of PETG. All parts including the case will be painted, black and dark gray. Component List: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X MB: Asus x570 Crosshair VIII Hero GPU: PowerColor Liquid Devil AMD Radeon RX 6900XT RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 32GB (4x8GB), 3600MHz PSU: EVGA 1000 G5, 1000Watt Gold Storage: (Main) Samsung NVMe M.2 970 EVO Plus, 500GB (Secondary) Inland Platinum NVMe M.2, 2TB Cooling: Fans - 5x Corsair QL 120 RGB Radiators - 1x EK-CoolStream SE 360 & 1x EK-CoolStream SE 240 CPU Monoblock – EK-Quantum Momentum RGB, Plexi Pump – 2x EK-Look D5 G3 PWM Pumps Fittings – EK-Quantum Torque Fittings Distro – Custom Made in-house Custom Cables: Custom PSU Cables from CableMods, using the custom configurator Some of these parts will be used from my current mudded Corsair case
Thank you for the heads up. It's interesting because when I created the thread and even this morning when I checked on it after it was released as public, all images came up perfectly fine.
Progress... Did some 3D printing. Worked on the status monitor enclosure with the top cover with integrated power switch and part of the PSU cover. This was the concept for the status monitor that will be integrated in the the distro plate. Im using a generic touch screen USB powered monitor with an HDMI output. I printed the enclousre on my Prusa mk3s+, using PETG+ fillament. I used heat Heat-Set threaded inserts for plastic to accept 3M screws. Assembly... The top cover with a micro switch that will be wired up directly to the motherboard power pins... The microswitch is held in place with two 3M screws The power switch and symbol look much better then it looks in the image, either way all these parts will be finished and painted. The PSU cover will hold the NZXT internal USB hub (currently being used in my system) and a USB to HDMI convereter, in order to avoid running a HDMI cable from the status monitor to the back of the GPU. All wires will be hidden. The convereter is made by j5Create and I took it appart to integrate the board directly into the PSU cover. The USB cable will plug directly into the USB hub with a USB to internal USB cable. This is the model designed in Fusion 360:
Not much progress, just a few design changes. I will start 3D printing the back panel cover today, but i had to change the design. I made the back cover larger so they can cover all the openings in the back panel of the case. It more then enough room to hide all the wiring, but I feel this looks better. this is the seperate part that will hold the iCue Commander Core XT controller. I also decided to add a Corsair Lighting Node so eventually I can add more RGB light strips in the back of the case and stand as the PC wil eventually be on a custom wall shelf, and I will be adding lighting to that. Still playing with ideas for that. This part is specifically designed to hold only the Commander Core XT and Lighting Node, and will be held in place with clips secured with 3M screws, then the large top cover it. It also has loops for securing all the wires with zip ties. I also completly forgot to add covers for the 2 D5 pumps. I decided to go with the EK Quantum Convection D5 covers in black. They are on order and I dont have them on hand. Either way they will have to be moded as they are to tall given that im strictly using them just to cover the pumps and will make my own brackets to hold the pumps to the distro plate, which I also had to change the design to accomodate the covers.
Thank you, there were a lot of changes and I still keep tweaking it as I get more ideas. Right now I have to integrate a molex female plug into the large cover, so I can plug in my DRGB stips easily and convinently that will be integrated in to the PC shelve/support that I going on my wall, this way all rgbs will be controled through ICue software. Still might change a little, but it will be made our of polished aluminum and 3/4" Acrylic with leds in the back panels and bottom
Printed and installed the back panel cover. The panel holding the corsair Commander Core XT and RGB Node, interlocks into the large cover. Inserted the 3M heat set threaded inserts using a soldering iron that will hold the brackets for the controllers. I secured the panel and covers to case back panel by drilling and threading the holes with a 6-32 threading tap. The covers still need to be smothed out and will be painted to match the rest of the case. I also realized that my prusa 3d printer bed leveling is not properly calibraged as you can see the high area in the large panel, or the heated bed warped (I allready preordered the new Prusa XL that is supposed to take care of all these issues. I also got some new end mill bits for my CNC, and ran a small job (a simple distro plate with that fits in the place of a 140mm fan) to see how they perform on acrylic since I have to surface the Acrylic sheet for the Distro Plate. Unfortunately all the Acrylic sheets have small variations in thickness which in the past have caused some issues for me on past projects with respect to the O-Rings. Im using 2mm O-Ring cord, and cutting a 1.4mm deep groove, allowing for about 30% compression. In the past I experienced over .5mm thickness variations in the acrylic sheets. With that kind of difference it means the O-Ring groove will have to be compressed too much or not enough and cause leaks. I also wanted to test out a new diamond engraving bit. The two bits Im using for the finishing are both from Harvey, a 3 flute (3/8") finishing end mill and a (3/8) PCD diamond end mill. The PCD Diamond bit resulted in a clearer finish, and the 3 flute bit left almost a frosted finish. On the top flat surface both bits left lines, although since the PCD bit has a .03 radius on the ends, the 3flute bit left a much flater surface. Im thinking about polishing and flame treating the surface, although I kind of like the lines, gives it a distinctive look, and once filled with coolant, almost invisible.
Awesome stuff. I'd try buffing it out instead of using a torch. Flame polish does a lot of unseen damage to the plastic. I thought for a moment you'd found an affordable diamond bit. Respect for the hammer. You've hit a few nails with that one.
I'll see how the polishing without flame treating works, I have done it once, and it wasn't bad. I was also expecting better results with that PCD diamond bit, it still cost over $400, and the next step up is the professional bits that cost over 2k and I'm deffiently not spending that much.
At least it will last forever. Maybe it's better with a wet cut. I've gotten some insanely clean edges on plastic with a really worn tile saw blade.
I don't mean to sound like I'm complaining, I was just expecting a little better finish. Alex from bit tech recommended to me the polished end mills from Datron which work great, and given the price difference in this new Harwey bit it's not that much better of a finish. But I still like the finish, kinda looks like the finish you get on the EKWB products with the lines.
I sense danger offering advise to someone with an unknown skill level and significantly better tools, but did you try a slow finishing pass taking off only .001" ? That might reduce the vertical lines in the cut.
Adivce is always welcome. I would like to say I know what Im doing with the CNC, but still learning, had a few Ooops moments where I broke bits with stupid mistakes and impatiance. I have tried varying the feed rates, but have not tried a .001" pass, Im just too impatient. I will try that though on a scrap piece. Thanks for the adivce.
This is looking awsome I know your after a specific finish to your prints and those powder coated PEI beds do well for that. Can't you just re-level the bed?? I'snt that what auto leveling does? In saying that ive pretty much ditched all flex plates on all my 13 printers for glass..... I just can afford to waist prints for orders anymore and glass gives us the best overall chance to make coin.
