Scratch Build – Complete ⭐ The Iron Turnip--6-2019-complete. final pictures on page 29

@Barry - Comet abrasive worked better. Brasso just polished the exposed copper. I'm thinking about smearing some more flux on it. I have enough for 600 more of these solder jobs.

On the block design side, I lucked out. The memory is .041 high, and the little V-regs are .04. I can essentially slap the copper on the plexi and lap the whole thing flat.

 

I love my big garage sometimes... I found some Draino. I had a feeling if I looked long enough, I would. -Found a big sheet of 3/16 beige plexi the other day too.

 

Draino/caustic soda took care of the carbon, but it wouldn't touch the red stuff. Best results came from DuPont #7 with comet and a calcium-sand stuff I got years ago...with heavy toothbrush application. I still have red splotches, though.

Also... I was doing some fitting and put the motherboard in the frame. I kinda noticed my computer model was rotated 90 degrees at this point.

Expect delays since I have to re draw all the block water channels.

-Captain Senile

 

the red maybe copper(1)oxide try vinegar to remove it

 

Nope, The red is proving to be a tough customer for household chemicals. I don't dare resort to pool chemicals without some research.

 

oh boy, cheaps with pool chemicals sounds like a trip lol

 

@Mos - I watched Robocop. I'm going to be super-careful. -Been putting it off for weeks.

So I mentioned above that I had the motherboard in the model rotated wrong. To be accurate, the position of the Apogee block was rotated. I have the new positions sorted out, but I can't make a fittingless mount in the side of the block anymore. The cpu block exit is directly across from the center of the gpu block.

-STILL haven't tackled the purple stains in the copper. Next up to try are the nasty pool chemicals. The net says muriatic acid and trisodium phosphate both work, but dang, they are really friggen dangerous to mess with. Definitely need to dilute them a LOT. Yes, I have a stockpile of both. I suspect the muriatic acid stock is what has kept my yard free of fire ants for years. "You smell that? there's some bad mofo's in there!" Now if I could only find something to scare off the skunk...

-Whee! Tile saw time! I'm so happy my baby is home. It's nice to not have to wait months to get it back every time you need it.

-Nice clean cuts. What wasn't photographed was the really bad fusing job. I ended up with a lot of air bubbles that will give me trouble later if I can't get them sealed up.

-The current config of the mill station. I gained a little floor space moving to the crappy flat panel. Like, three damn square feet. -rather a lot, really.

-First up is the deep purple base plate. *Start 'Machinehead' on playlist.* Pass one is the O-ring channels. I stopped at this point because the pump and fan for the controller were cutting out. I hope the untangling of wires fixed the matter. It seems it has.
-2nd pass was screw holes with a 1/16" bit. No pics of that.

-3rd pass was finished up last night...around midnight. I thought I had cut each program up into short sessions. This one was 2 hours 50 minutes. I thought the outer perimeter cut would be the Olympic event. Apparently, there will be two.

Thanks again to my sponsors:

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u have a cnc mill. That is so freaking envious I get...

 

@Icelander - Dude! They are sooo cheap nowadays. ...unless the controller dies on you.

 

So true,I have a Shapeoko 3 that i got for £1200 imported from the US,looking forward to it arriving Friday....


In other news,You still got it Cheaps.......

If you are ever brazing again,use MAPP gas instead of propane,its much hotter.

 

Once I changed to a new tank I was good. I got the copper TOO hot. I never thought I'd see that sucker glow red. I had been trying to get that tank to empty out forever. The tank had been down to just some backwash for two years. I left it outside with the valve open, and the pressure was so weak, it was still hissing the next day.

 

I'm currently working on plans to liberate your tile saw, setting up a tile saw underground railroad. Is that thing bolted down?

In other news: Deep Purple

 

-In a way, yes. There's no way for you to dig it free before I can get to you.
It's just strange that it gets borrowed, the borrower then returns it with a new blade every time. For the cost of a 10" blade, they could have bought a cheap saw for themselves.

DP: The band, the plexi, or both?

 

-Pic #2, and session...4? Another hour cut.

-And pic #1. Somehow, my camera turned into a time machine. This is session 5.

-The last pass cut the outer perimeter. Add 1 hour and 33 minutes. You can see all the bubbles from the screwed up fusing job. I hope I can get them all sealed.

-I wet my drill tip and finished up the screw holes. I have packing cellophane on the back to protect the plexi, and handle moisture containment.

-FDR approves. I honestly didn't know if I could drill and tap the holes here without cracking the lip. I can't hardly even see them.

-A quick test fit with R9 showed me a crooked capacitor was giving me trouble. Session #6...7?

-We have a bingo! ...and a forehead. So, half done. I still have to revise the top layer, and work out the exit port, which is in the general area of the power connectors.

 

I think the bubbles give it character

But seriously... The fact that you can even fuse acrylic is amazing. Well A; that you have the chemicals (Okay maybe not, you seem to be a warehouse for not so friendly chemicals and tools..) and that B; you can actually fuse it without botching the piece avery time (I know I would.)

Either way, great to see progress as always.

 

Thanks.

The character in cartoons that gets shot at, drinks a glass of water, and turns into a sprinkler.
I did botch the fusion this time. That's the point.

 

*sigh* I turn my back for a month or two and look what you get up to...

Three answers for your copper oxide:

Heat it up again - paint the whole thing with flux, and give it a blast with the flame, you're not trying to do any soldering here, just heat the flux up so that it starts doing it's thing, which of course is to suck up oxygen and crap. If that doesn't work, see below.

Jewellers pickle - designed specifically to hurt copper oxides, it's that damn 7.5% in sterling silver, causes fire stain (what you have but on an industrial scale) works best hot about 50-70 degrees C. If that doesn't work, see below.

Copper plate it - sound's stupid, copper plating copper... good news it's cheep and easy (I don't know which acids/chemicals this works with apart from jewellers pickle...) if you still have your burnt piece of copper stick that in some jewellers pickle until it's as clean as it's going to get, then feel free to blast it with the torch again and stick it back in as many times as it takes to get a nice blue tint on the pickle. Get a nice big wad of steel wire, drop it in and suspend what you want to plate above it, the steel should bubble like crazy and your block should be copper plated.

Six years on here, you'd have thought I'd have figured out how the subscribe function works...

 

I forgot the flux... again. That stuff was wicked. I've been putting off any major cleanup since I started the top. Thanks again, Asura. Don't feel you are watching an idiot at work. He's just lazy and playing mad scientist with the chemicals on the nearest shelf. It's d*mn hot outside.

BTW, I've cut the 2nd plexi bit. I will cut the 2nd copper plate next. -But first there's a bathtub to re tile.

 

Hmm. Speaking of acrylic, cheaps, you've given me an idea.

Question first though, how difficult or easy is it to fuse acrylic layers with that cement? Any suggestions as far as milling lubricant? I have some 2.2 mm stuff laying around that I don't have any use for, but if it were a little thicker I can think of some things