Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by legoman666, 29 Jan 2009.
Looking good! Keep up the great work!
Legoman, the switches may contain mains-voltage neons, which will light up when current passes through them. Have you tried powering them yet?
You could be pleasantly surprised.
Great Project BTW.
Actually, I had a discussion on [H] about the exact same thing. Here's a transcript:
Which I haven't tried yet. I will though! Thanks for the compliment!
You could have used a normal double plug outlet for this. You just need to break off the little tabs on the sides near the connecting screws and you will have 2 isolated outlets.
Where were you 3 days ago!? I was at the hardware store, looking at the things. I looked and looked for one where the two outlets looked isolated to no avail. I saw the little tabs and didn't really think much of them.
Hinged the top section.
This is a combination of work from Sunday up to today (Thursday).
I bought 4 small hinges that will be used to allow access to the top compartment. I cut a small strip of aluminum and drilled the holes for all 4 hinges.
I cut about 3/4" off the bottom of the right side sheet and then cut a piece to replace it. I drilled the holes through it for the hinges.
Each hinge is held in place with 2 small 8-32 nuts.
And then I did the same for the top. You will notice, on the top section I had to put small 1/8" spacers in between the hinges and the panel. This is to make both sections of panel even as the lower section is bumped out by the 1/8" angle risers.
View from the outside.
And the hinges in action. I still need to do a little more filing so I can open it at least 90 degrees. If it can't open far enough, I won't be able to pull the motherboard tray out of the oil. Speaking of which...
I cut 2 strips of 1/4" acrylic that will be have the drawer sliders attached to them. Although not shown in this picture, these were cut to the proper length, about 12".
Here are the drawer sliders I'm going to use. I washed them with dishsoap several times to remove all of the oil and grease on the ball bearings. These will be submerged in mineral oil and as such, do not require extra lubrication. Besides, I don't want the two oils mixing.
After a discussion on [H] (posted above), I figured out what I needed to do to get the neon bulbs in the switches to light up. The third pin on each switch had to be grounded. So I soldered a short connection between the two ground pins on both switches and then grounded them both by wiring them to the case (which is grounded). It is a bit dark, but you can just make out the ground going to the screw in this pic.
And then here it is in action. Looks good.
awesome, cant say more than this. period.
Good thinking Batman
I see a problem with the lid possibly catching on the top of the tank on the side opposite of the hinge. I'm still half-asleep here, so I can't tell if you have everything right from the pic.
May I ask you a question?
do you plan to use something like a steel rope or a little chain to avoid the risk of open too wide the top panel? S**t, I don't have the right word in english to explain my ideas...
Maybe is the third Bacardi without nothing to eat?
I understand what you mean Yes, that is the plan. I was thinking about a piston type thingy if I could find one the proper size. Otherwise I'll just go with a piece of aluminum or a chain.
edit: like this http://www.amazon.com/Lexus-LS400-Support-Strut-Shock/dp/B000PTOROQ
You are correct, I'm still thinking of how to solve this, but I will most likely sand the 1/2" angle to allow the lid to close smoothly.
Keep the questions coming!
Looking good on this project. I can't believe I ignored this thread previously. I'll be keeping an eye on this. Also I love those case feet, I wish I could buy some for my scratch build.
Mate it's all looking awesome.
The best way to fix it would be to have the hinges at the very top of the bottom frame bars.
"Tank" for LCD
Hehe, thanks. I have 2 or 3 extra feet.... but they're not as uniform as the 4 I ended up using.
Thanks for the comment. The hinge point is actually above the frame angle, however the 1/2" angle and the panel for the top section overlap about 3/8", so it doesn't quite close perfectly.
And on to the update....
I did some filing and am now able to open the top more than 90 degrees.
Cutting the pieces for the "tank" that holds the 8" LCD on the front acrylic panel.
Then I glued it together with Weld-On and sealed the corners with silicone.
Then I glued the "tank" to the acrylic sheet. Weld-On is awesome. You just stick the two pieces together and apply the stuff to the joint. You can't apply it to the edges and then connect the two pieces since it evaporates so fast. Plus it dries in about 10 minutes and is strong enough to handle. Nearly full strength occurs after about 24 hours.
Making sure the tank is watertight so oil doesn't leak in.
I don't see any drips!
So I emptied the water and made sure the LCD fit (lol, maybe I should have done that before I glued it all together )
I want to glue the tank together tomorrow, so I need to get the bottom of the tank ready. With that in mind, I marked the 3 locations for the bulkhead fittings. 1 for the radiator inlet, 1 for the outlet, and 1 for the drain.
First I drilled a pilot hole since my 7/8" drill bit does not like starting holes and I really don't want to ruin this sheet of acrylic.
Then drilling the big hole for the fitting. Sure takes a long time.
Here's how the bulkhead fittings work. The top doesn't come tapped, but that's easily fixed.
And all 3 holes done.
That's where I stopped today. Tomorrow I want to glue the entire tank together. I think I'm ready to do it; I'm fairly certain I have everything prepared. Comments?
I can't wait to see the entire tank put together, should look awesome.
Looks good, can't wait to see it together. Loving the LCD tank
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