Time to make that 24 pin! I'm going to make this extension have a pretty extreme and tight bend in it (more than 180 degrees). If you want your 24 pin to have a nice curve and keep it, you have to make the inside row of wires shorter than the outside row of wires. There is a formula you can follow if you want a precise down to the millimeter measurement, based on how many degrees of bend you will have, but my rule of thumb is to use 1/4 inch shorter on the inside row for every 90 degrees of bend you want in the extension. I'm going to have a little more than 180 degrees, so I'm going to make my inside wires about 5/8 inch shorter than my outside. Let's make the outside row of wires first. Based on a couple of trial and errors, I settled on 8.5 inches for the length of the outside row. This length created a nice snug fit with a tight bend. No excess wire here. It's all work and no play. So I cut myself 12 pieces of my 16 AWG Lutro0 Customs special wire into 8.5 inch lengths.... There they are....all lined up and reporting for duty. Then I used my Knipex wire strippers to take off the EXACT same amount of insulation on each of these soldiers... They didn't mind one bit. Then I used my Lutro0 crimper and pins to make some more of those PERFECT crimps on one end of the wires. I always do just one end first, because I can run through these all without having to worry about rotating the pin in the right direction before crimping. For the second pin, I always make sure and lay out the wire on something flat and ensure that I'm crimping the pin with it rotated in the right position on the wire. For this extension, both pins needed to be facing up the same direction. If you forget to make sure they are lined up....it causes grief when you go to insert them into the connectors, because you'll have to be twisting the wire/sleeve around to get it to fit into the connector. No-bueno. So make sure you have them lined up correctly. Stripped and crimped. Sounds like a bad 80's movie...... Next I cut lengths of my sleeve to use. I've found that if I cut the sleeve a little less than 1/4 inch shorter than the wire, that it comes out just about perfect for the shrinkless method I use. Of course, this 1/4 inch will depend on how much insulation you take off, and how tight you stretch the sleeve. But for me....a smidge less than 1/4 inch shorter works nicely. I always touch the ends with some flame and taper them at this point also. 2 grey, 2 pink and 8 black. That's what I need for the outside row I'm working on. Now I need some heatshrink for my shrinkless method. I've always found that kind of funny. Took out my jig and a pair of scissors, and went to work cutting some up. Perfect. I mentioned this awhile back, but I never could get consistently good results using an exacto knife or box cutter or razor blade. But with a pair of scissors....I can cut up 50 pieces of perfectly sized shrink in about 2 minutes. It's quick. And I love being able to adjust to get the perfect size I need for whatever I'm doing. Nice lil' tool.... Look at them. They don't even know they are about to get burned alive..... Next steps were to cinch my wires into a piece of sleeve, and melt the sleeve onto the pins at the end of the wire. If you've never tried shrinkless.....give it a shot. Plenty of good videos available, so I won't recreate the wheel for you. But check some out and then give it a go. I find it more forgiving than using heatshrink, and it secures the sleeve MUCH better than when using heatshrink. Since the sleeve is literally melted and formed around the first ridge on the pin....it's on there securely. It's not going anywhere. This lets me pull the sleeve much more tightly than I ever could if it was secured by heatshrink. Tighter sleeve....is nicer sleeve. Oh Lord. I've now mentioned strippers, shrinking and tighter in the same post. I fear the gate has been opened for off-topic comments. After completing the outside row, I went back and did all the same steps for the inside row, but I cut the wires 5/8 inch shorter than I did for the outside row. So....here is what it looked like after I got both rows. If you try and lay it flat, you'll see that one row (the outside row) has to buckle up since it's longer. But have no fear. If you measured right, when you bend the extension in the shape you are going to use....all of the wires will magically snug up next to each other and look incredible! Here is what it looks like inside the build. It came out perfect length. There is not an inch of extra slack in the wire. Perfectly sized, and looking like it's a full one-to-one cable since the ugly doubles and cross-overs are all handled in the mini-cable right by the PSU. I actually gave away a surprise with some of those pictures....and I'm sure the eagle eyed forum members will catch it. But I'll do a full post on it tomorrow anyway so it's not like I would have kept it a surprise forever! Now....to test and see if I got everything wired up correctly, the first thing I did was plug it in and see if the computer would boot. Check. All voltage readings read normal in my Aida64 screens. But....I decided to test out one of my new toys anyway. I got this little multi-meter from Lutro0, and I hadn't used it yet. One of the very cool features of the ASUS RIVE BE are the places on the board where you can place probes and test the different voltages on the board. VCore, VTT, DRAM, etc. All of mine tested perfectly. I even tested the memory at 1.5v and at the XMP settings of 1.65 volts. The measurements I got from the motherboard were exactly what they should be under each scenario. Very handy tool and I love having that feature on the motherboard. Nice touch ASUS. I initially tried some of the stealth cable combs from Lutro0, and decided that I liked the look of cable sewing better. So....next up on my project list is to do some sewing on the 24 pin. I'll also start in on the other motherboard power connectors. There are lots of ways to pimp your ride when doing a computer build. But custom sized cables is one of those things where you get a lot of bang for the buck. In my mind, nothing makes a build sharper than custom sized and sleeved cables for every connector.