As long as you get a nice straight clean cut on the pipe and it's pushed right down, it'll be fine. I always do a leak test with just the pump running and nothing else connected up.
Cool thanks for the info guys. I want it to be a clean & tidy build, i dont want any clamps or zip ties, so i guess that means i need compression fittings.
I prefer the look of comp fittings personally. I like the chunky industrial look If your doing it for the first time I'd suggest going with them, less risk of issues happening One thing I learnt, measure everything. I guesstimated my res, and it didn't fit where I wanted it Hence the move to the new case...
I beg to differ. I have used both 3/8" and 1/2" tubing, and on the same 1200lph pump, temps were hotter due to the restricted flow, and less water in the loop. So bigger is better! Also from experience, If you go down the route of watercooling the CPU and GPU, I would use a separate loop. Read This. Otherwise you will end up in the same boot as I did. Cheers, Simon.
Thanks for all the info here guys - I have decided this year i am going to water cool my i5 750 (just becuase i want to do my first w/c build) - I will move it out of my raven and get a new case. and later in the year im going to get sandy bridge bundle which i will just run on air, in the raven. If you guys see any decent bits in the MP give me a nudge!!
true_gamer - Out of curiosity how much did your temps drop with 1/2" tubing and over what period did you run load tests. Your results contradict other tests on tubing size.
Seen some of these so far. Any thoughts? - EK Supreme LT 1366 water block - Thermochill TA 120.3 High Performance Radiator - Laing D4 pump (non vario) - Hardware Labs Black Ice® SR Series 240mm Dual Radiator Also, i have a question around sizes. I want to go for 1/2" tubing as i want a thicker looking tube. But i notice that the rads listed above dont say that fit 1/2", think they say 1/4" - So does that rule them out totally?
Thats the connector for the fittings, so the screw size for the barbs or compressions to screw into Just watch out, those Thermochills are uaually A: a different spacing between the fans (25mm instead of 15mm) and B: use a different size fitting (3/8 I believe instead of 1/4)
1/4 is the thread size..it's actually 1/4BSP, it's an old imperial size the same as M5 would be a 5mm metric thread. The actually fitting that go into the rad will be 1/4BSP with the barb or the compo being 1/2 or 3/8 inch which the tubing goes on to.
Right, so i would be ok with 1/2" tubing on a rad like this (the black ice for example) Any thoughts on the other components? Do you lot think having a pump with variable speeds is important?
What are you going to be cooling? The TA Rads have G1/4 threads and 15 mm fan spacing. However the fan mounting holes are untapped and will probably require 6-32 screws. The Supreme LT block is an older one and for a similar price you can get the Aquacomputer Kryos Delrin which is a good performer. If you're getting a Laing pump I'd think about the D5 Vario for a little bit more flexibility on pump speeds. The SR1 rad is OK but a bit pricey. You could consider a Swiftech MCR220 or PM me for a used SR1 240. EDIT: I'll also have a used Heatkiller 3.0 available soon but it only has socket 1366 mounts. Mounts for other sockets cost around £13 from Aquatuning. I can supply it with a mod that improves performance slightly.
Yep that would be fine. If you notice it says 1/4 thread thats all you have to watch out for. 99% of rads these days are 1/4 BSP anyway. It's only occasionally you'll get a res with 3/8 threads.
and you do you mean G1/4 ports? thats just the thread size the rads take, pretty common that is, actually I believe its standard on pretty much all water cooling parts. edit, DAMMIT, jeff beat me to it also try this for a cpu block, meant to be one of the best performers on the market, especially if you change the jet plate http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-supreme-hf-nickel-water-block-for-all-socket-cpus
Your heatload is about 160W for a stock GTX460 and around 95W for a stock i5 750. That could rise to a total of maybe 350W if both are overclocked. A dual rad should be OK although you may need something like GT1850s for decent temps with reasonable noise levels. I forgot that I also have universal mount for the Heatkiller like this http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=113_38&products_id=1726 but I don't like the look of it so never used it.
Cool nice one lads - Im doing my best to take in all the info 1) Whats a jet plate, and how do i go about changing one? 2) Whats the better of the following 2 rads? (i am looking at a couple 2nd hand) - Thermochill TA 120.3 High Performance Radiator - Hardware Labs Black Ice® SR Series 240mm Dual Radiator 3) If cooling CPU & GPU, and i require 2 loops do i need 2 rads? 2 res? 2 pumps?
1 loop = 1 of everything so it would go like this >res>pump>components>rad and back to the res. You could have a split loop with a rad before each component, but still on 1 loop, but that's not important for the moment.
I'm not sure how to describe it properly, but my best attempt at describing it goes something like this, its basically a small plate of metal where the water passes through, different numbers and layouts of lines are cut into the metal to allow the water to flow through, from testing on skinelabs they found that the ek although good in its stock configuration, it was the best performing block at the time with its no. 2 jet plate installed, oh and they tell you in the ek manual, i'm doing it now great fun. Also I'd say for your i5 and gtx 460 you don't need two loops, simion need 2 because he had so much (like nuclear reactor style heat) heat to move from his cpu and gpu's
