TribalOVERKILL's LiquiD EVOLUTION

Sorry, started 'nother hijack.
@John - ...keys...'Used' I guess is the word you're looking for? I worked in a key shop for a while. -anyway, that project is a long time from now.

 

I'm reading and I don't see any computer on wall with built in 100cm fan or epic watercooling mod.

 

Man, I can't get over how you do all this essentially by HAND!

But nice, very nice work! I have a quick question. I was just reading "Modding with acrylic" in the modding forum and I've read that when opening IPS Weld-on 4, it tends to explode when you break through the tab? Is this true, and if so have you ever experienced this? I am going to be working on a case mod (first one) and was given some really nice transparent dark blue and green acrylic (cell cast) I've done all the metal work necessary and would like to use the acryl but I am a bit hesitant because I have never worked with IPS weld on products before and am a bit skeptical now? Other than that Dude keep up the good work 'cause I am hooked...lmao

 

I dont know anything about that?!?! I've had several can and nothing like that happened to me. I wouldnt worry about it. when tip though,... you have an applicator bottle right? You'll need that. Anyways,... when you go to apply the glue, squeeze some of the air out of the applicator. Slowly unsqueeze the bottle letting the air back in while you bring the tip to the acrylic. This will help keep the weldon from splattering when you tip the bottle. No real reason to squeeze the bottle to get the weldon out too. It comes out easily. Very easily. have fun.

 

An update. I got so many things going on, things that I have to do I feel like im going to go crazy!!!

Aug-12-2008 (bAR2745r)

I got my one digital caliper in the mail. This is the better one. The other one hasnt come yet! OMG I order that how long ago! Harborfreight.com sucks @#$! Anyways,... this thing is nice! I was measuring the thickness of hair! I noticed that one end of a hair is thicker than the other Cool!


And of course,.... it never fails. Something always ends up broken in the mail. They seriously need to rethink their efforts. I mean seriously.


So nice! It's good up to .005 but I actuall think its goo up to .0005! A little "5" shows up here and there after all the numbers when measuring stuff.


Got my Gentec small torch!


OMg it was like xmas opening this thing up. It's got fine tuning knobs for O2 and gas. Comes with like 5 tips numbering from 3 - 7. I know theres a #2 tip but after using the #3 tip I cant imagine using a #2. The flame would be so damn small.


Comes with 8' of hose.


The Gentec next to the MAPP torch.


This right here is the MAPP torch tip. I think its a #7 size tip. Which is the biggest tip the Gentec came with.


This is the #7 tip for the Gentec.


Side by side.


Now this is the smallest Gentec tip. Its a #3 tip.


This is the #3 tip in action. I have it maxed out. I usually use this tip with a lot less gas/O2. Because waving it around while polishing will blow out the flame when you push to much gas/O2 through such a small tip. The flame it mush smaller when you use less gas/O2 than what you see in the pics. But its still hot enough to do a smashing job at flame polishing.


Here I am destroying a piece of aluminum with the #7 tip. so cool.


Look at it glow man,... geez. Now this is a bit different than melting I think. When I destroyed this piece,... I dont think I had the flame as hot as it should of been to melt it. I think I had it just below what it should of been. It's still melted but its like it more or less destroyed the aluminum. From slowly heating it and then continuously heating it,... it like ruined the aluminum or something. This piece had an after glow where another pieces I flamed,... didn't. The piece that didn't melted a lot faster.


This is the piece that didnt have that after glow to it. From what I heard,... aluminum doesnt really get red hot. It does but not really. It's just melts right away. Thats what this piece did. It just looks melted. there the other piece looks weird. I dont know.


some pieces that fell off while melting it. the two on the left hit the floor and the one on the right almost set my table on fire.


Proof.


My new baby.


Time for some flame polishing. I put the 3# tip back on for the flame polishing. I also made this little handle thing I use to pick up and turn the acrylic. Now the acrylic doesnt really get hot at all when flame polishing! thats exactly what you want! Its perfect.


Ok heres the before.


Here's the after. This is actually stage one of the polishing process. I actually had to flipp them after they cooled to do it again. They came out great.


Nice.


This is what I got done before running out of O2. Melting the aluminum and farting around on video used up a lot of O2. No sanding here.


Ok,... back the the tube jig. I attached the aluminum arm things.


I am not liking this jig. It's not the way it's suppose to be. I have a better idea.


As you can see it's off. After you drill all 4 holes doing the same method shown here. If you were to drill a 5th hole,... it should align perfectly with the very first hole. The angle is off by a bit. maybe 43 or 44 degrees instead of 45. Im going to scrap this jig and make the other one.


Time to work on the drill press. I have to reverse it. I was going to initially wire two foot switches but thats going to be a pain in the arse. So Im going to wire one foot swtich and a center off switch too. Going to do both drill presses but im going to start with the smaller one first. I have to get this motor off.


I have to take this thing off.


I have to disconnect this swtich.


Done. This thing is heavy as hell! Cant imagine how heavy the other one is!


This is a capacitor start - induction run motor. It has two windings, the started winding and the running winding. When you flip the swtich, the running winding always has power which means the magnetic fields are always turning. When you flip the switch on the starter winding gets power but when the rotor reaches a certain speed the centrifugal switch turns it off. The starter winding is obviously only for starting the rotation of the rotor. The started winding is power by a capacitor. The started winding is what determines direction. Without it the rotor would not start turning on its own. It needs a push. This is because the running winding creates two magnetic fields moving evenly in opposite directions. Kind of like a game of "Tug of War". Each team perfectly equal in strength pulling on a rope. The start winding is an extra person plaes on only one side of the rope. The extra person enables the one team to pull the rop towards them. Get it? once the rotor starts moving it will become attached to the magnetic field moving in that direction. The other magnetic field wont be able to stop the rotation at that point. It does slow it down a tiny bit but not a lot.


This is the centrifugal swtich or part of it.


When the rotor is spinning fast enough it pulls outward pulling this black disc up towards the rotor.


When its not turning,... the disc moves away from the rotor and pushes down on the actual switch attached to the inside of the rear cover.


This is the rotor.


This is the stator. A bad pic by the way. The cam focused through the stator. DOH!


This is the starter winding attached the the wire from the capacitor. Starter winding from what read is usually only one wire and is usually of a thinner gauge too.


This is the running winding. It usually has two or more wires. The gauge is usually thicker too. Reason being because it's always powered. Wher ethe starter winding only has power momentarily.


Heres all three wires(one starter and two running) all connected the the negative.


Ok,... here's the deal. This is where the process of powering the start winding starts. The white wires is from teh on/off switch. The positive wire. Because the running winding always has power it connected right to this wire. The red wire goes the to the centrifugal switch.


Here's the red wire. Whenteh motor is off,... the centrifuge pushes down on this closing the circuit. Thw power from the res passes through,...


And makes it's way to this white wire that,....


Makes it way up into the capacitor compartment so that it can power the capacitor. From here,...


Another white wire comes down and is attached to the starter winding SO I need to switch this starter winding wire with,....


With the starter winding wire attached here. When I do that the rotor should change directions. I want to wire in a triple throw switch. Forward - Off - Reverse. when you want to switch directions you have to let the rotor come to a complete stop. If you dont the rotor will keep spinning in the same direction is was regardless of where the switch is, forward or reverse. Cool beans?!?!


I have to order some switches now. Peace. Oh I made another video. I'm just waiting for REVVER to approve it. I uploaded this video the other day and when I came home it was listed as an error. REVVER sucks.

 

Cheese and crackers, man..you never cease to amaze...

...you're the bold type aren't ya?...lol, man not only are you making visionary strides (among others) in PC modding and such, you go on to tear your drill press apart only to improve on it...lol...nice! As for your question about the applicator; I took your advice, (from when last i asked), about using an applicator and purchased two applicator bottles and a syringe from eplastics.com (Ridout). Thanks for that tip and on how to properly apply the adhesive. Oh yeah, before i forget; so YOU just tear open the tab and all should be good, no go bang...lol. Nice caliper, a Carrera isn't bad...for a POS...lol j/k dude, if you can find a tag sale, garage sale, yard sale, estate sale, fire sale, or serendipitously second hand bench top drill press (preferably 8 inch) I can help you turn it into a light milling machine ( I describe a "second hand drill press find" because I wouldn't want to tamper with the one you have, not after working hard on making it "pedal powered" ) I say light because you probably won't be able to cut heavy metals, but with the improvements to a drill, made into a mill, you can mill plastics, non ferrous metals and wood, mull it over and PM me on what you want to do. with a find like this added to the drill turned mill, too:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=201-2826&PMPXNO=951820&PARTPG=INLMK3
you can find the same kind on eBay for a cheaper price.

you'd be zipping along your mods faster, though you probably wouldn't need it...you do just as well, if not better, with just your hands but it's just an idea. From one hobbyist to another.

 

He bought one of those the same time he bought the new -Hey wait! How long have you had that press you just took apart?!?! like, 2 months?
You have way too much energy.

Oh, and those cans are OK if you don't try to open them when their hot. Otherwise the metal seal will pop out and go flying when you open it.

 

nice btw if the motor doesn't work you can just buy a more powerful one. Nice work
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59061

as you can see i had a lot of questions with reversing the power

Congrats on the torch! thats a nice one! do the hoses have an option to hook it up to a regulator?

 

The drill press I took apart is years old. But I will be taking apart the new one too. I'm not afraid. It needs to be done.

 

Im sure it does. I will be renting a large O2 tank in the near future. So I will need to hook this bad boy up to it.

 

yar tribal i sold a 20cuft oxy a little while ago... i would have let you have it cheap!

im sure you know the scoop but if you have a airgas/praxair(usually douch bags)/boc gas et cetera near you, go in, kiss ASS (they can give you LARGE discounts!) and say you bought a oxygen tank a little while ago and was wondering if you could get it refilled/swapped because the work where you got it no longer does it and you need it for hobby... and buy one on ebay for pretty cheap. see if it works ive gotten great deals this way. renting is usually $10 a month or so correct? you still need to spend ~ 50-100 on a regulator, if you can snag a oxygen tank for ~ 50-60 shipped it might be worth doing... especially when you can sell it for 50-60 new (i got two 20cuft oxygen tanks for 90 shipped, sold one for 65$ shipped, so i got a 25$ oxy tank )

sorry for rant. im sure you know the scoop- i do lots of gas trading (i have a tank of acetylene, oxygen, co2, nitrogen, soon ethylene) so...

those little torches are soo sweet

do you need a flashback arrestor on it though? the oxy/mapp has one built in but i don't think that does.

reed

 

I have an airgas by me. I was just going to rent e tank from them. Last time I checked I was asking about some gas for tig welding. They quouted me like 70 a year to rent and 70 per fill. I dont know what it costs for O2. though. Will see. But I do know that I need a bigger tank. About the torch,... I dont know. It didnt say anything about it in th3e description. That is whether it had it or needed it. I dont know.

 

Like the new sig.
He is passing a lot of gas around.
You might as well see if you can find some milling machine bearings for the press. It's already apart.

 

I didnt go that far with it. Just took the motor apart.

 

Damn the polishing looks nice, too bad you need so much equipment and I'm still stuck at my little attic

 

I want to make another video showing the difference between the torches. I need to get one of those digital thermometers. I want to show how one torch heats up the acrylic more than the other while trying to achieve the same results.

At least you have a place to work man Some people dont even have that. Seriously.

 

thanks for the sig change!

 

So,... all I need now is two 4-way light switches to reverse the two drill presses. I will use the 4-way switch to switch directions and use the foot switches to power on the drill presses. I want to try and find a local store that sells them because I want them RIGHT NOW! I have off today and tomorrow. I want to get this S@#$ done!

 

you better get a IR thermo because you will melt the insulation on any K/J/T type thermocouple thermometer

 

Thats what I meant. One of those point and shoot thermometers LOL.