Cooling *UPDATE* - New Pics - What would be a better way to...

Oh ya if you do have these stamped grates inline with your fans get 'em out of there! If you feel the need to put something in for protection just get a regular fan guard, the ones made from thin wire.

 

The specs of tose fans can be found :here: (ain't Google wonderful?). The max. RPM is 2600 and airflow is 2.6 m3/min which is 91.8 CFM.

At 39dB they are also pretty noisy, but since they run on anything between 6V to 12V you can throttle them. Do not hook them to a motherboard fan header; they rate 0.52A and will burn it out. PSU molex only.

As Phuzz says: the radiator you link to is just a BIX by another name... It should serve you well. The free shroud makes it an utter bargain.

 

This fan is attached to my mobo because all it has is a 3pin female connector. I might be able to connect it to the PSU cause I think I have a 3pin male connector coming off a molex.

BTW, you looked up the 102 model, not the 101, though they are almost the same. I'm reading the fan at 2710RPM off a mbm sensor

 

Just updating on a couple things I did, and I'm also adding a lot of new pictures. I'm now using a Fan Master to control my Sanyos and I cut a big hole in the front of my case for better airflow through the radiator.

















That's all of them for now

 

Actually, they're not just relabeled BIX's. They're made by Cooling Works (as the pics says) and are uh, Cooling Works rads, but they are cheaper and uh, just happen to look like BIX's...

The Cooling Works guy stated more info on another forum when some one labeled them knock-offs.

 

Nice work, Doomsayer, and that should help a bit, but I would mount the radiator fan behind the radiator so that it sucks the air through, rather than in front so that it blows the air through. you will find that knocks another degree or so off your temps.

 

OR

give a push/pull setup ago - works well for me

 

I think I've made up my mind on what to do with my rig. The Black Ice Pro definately has to go. It just not dissipating enough of the heat produced from my p4 3.0E @ 3.3Ghz and my ATI Radeon 9800Pro. I read up on the difference between the CoolingWorks CoolRad 12-T and HWLabs Black Ice Xtreme. It seems that CoolingWorks tried to copy the BIX down to every detail, and just charge less for it. This graph shows the deltaT (just another way for us smart people to say "change in temperature") for the 12-T and Xtreme.



You can see the BIX w/ shroud works the best with the lowest dT. But look at the Xtreme with no shroud compared to the 12-T with shroud, there's only a 0.06 degree difference. For the price, I'm going to go with the CoolRad 12-T that comes with a free shroud.

I'm also planning on upgrading the old Maze4 to a TDX block. I've been doing my reading and have concluded that the TDX will make a great improvement, especially with the addition of the nozzles. #4 will probably be my best bet.

My pump will work fine with all of this, I just screwed up doing some conversions in my head or something. Thanks to everyone that posted, your input helped me a lot

 

You could try running the case with the front bezel off, if that helps then you know you need to do some cutting there. I'm looking at a review here and the built-in grills look ok.

 

Resivoirs do help ana azming amount.

more water in the system, more water to heat up, its very simple convection and radiation heat transference - PUT A RES IN!

on a second note 1 120pro aint that great, sell it and grab an xtreme.

 

The res will show the temperature rise, but once all the water is at temperature, then they cannot help as the reservoir cannot remove any heat from the loop.

The Xtreme will offer more resistance to the fan, though.

 

You know, that doesn't make any sense whatsoever. Apart from the fact that although it takes longer for the water to warm up, it does eventually warm up and then you are back to square one, convection and radiation heat transference have nothing to do with it.

 

You might consider flipping your radiator 180 degrees so the barbs are on the outside.
No performance increase but it would make the tube routing a bit more elegant.

 

You mean turning it so that the barbs are right near the window? I dont think i can do that because the rad will get in the way of the window, and I dont think it will look any better anyway. I'm just debating on whether i should change the order things come in my loop, or move the T line to a different part of the loop. IDK! I just wanna do something that will make the inside of the case look as tidy as possible. Any ideas from the crew? I know Nexxo is all about making stuff look professional. THIS CASE NEEDS MORE MODS!!!

Hey and BTW overnight here when it gets a little cooler upstairs, my idle temps are 45 CPU and 37 Case haha!

 

Its alright, because when I get it, I'm gonna have 2 fans in a push-pull configuration along with at least 1 shroud. This will add that extra airflow I need.

 

I agree 100%. To me the water taking longer to warm up is a negative not a positive since it takes longer to prove if a given OC is stable with your given cooling system. Unless you plan to max out the cpu for only short bursts and give time inbetween to let the coolant cool down.

Sure there may be instances where having a res improves circulation and thereby increasing the cooling ability of a given system by a little bit. But this has nothing to do with the volume of the res that I can see.

I don't know how hard you plan on running your fans but this article suggests there is very little performance gain in a push/pull configuration at low airflow rates i.e. a low RPM fan @7V. However there is a definite gain when using high power fans at full speed.

 

12V, Loud, High RPM Sanyo Denki 109R1212H101 fans. I dont mind hearing my case from outside in the hall.

 

Then push/pull is definitely for you.

 

Maybe try a heater core instead of a manufactured radiator?

 

I have a heater core that I got along with my water blocks and fan controller and stuff off of ebay. It can hold 2 to 4 120mm fans, but I dont think im gonna fit that big hunk of metal inside of my case unless I can take my FDD/HDD cage out, and then I wont have anywhere to place my HDD.