I had deliver of my new koolance waterblock today to swap from a xp to a p4. So i got new clips and tubing to replace the old, sepcially as there were a few nasty kinks in it. So i get it drained, most of the tubing off. Next is the tubing on the resevouir, which has the really bad kink in it. So i start to loosen the clip, get that loose, pull the tubing to slide it off and the whole damm plug bit came with it . As well as my xp-1800 frying the other day - when it was put back on air cooling how much worse can my week get. Well in an attempt to fix this with what i have to hand, i used a soldering iron to melt the plastic back together, very botch job but supports the weight oif the res holding just the broken bit. Next I appl;ied ALOT of silicon to stop any leaks. Got to wait till tommorrow night then fill it up and give it a few hours test running see if it holds ok. Here are some piccies.
I've heard quite a bit about koolance cases and the res breaking. they really should do something. Nice soldering iron plastic welding, I know what thats like.
well heres an update. The soldering and silicon didnt hold, I gave it a little tug was ok, went to put the new pipe on and snap striahg toff. The silicon held but very flexibly so nopt goign with that solution. Next was to cut off the excess plastic on the side of the res where the barb had been and make the hold bigger. I started witht e trust soldering iront o try and melt my way through hoping to leave a clen edge. This worked but the hold wasnt big enough. So with a old broken pair of pliers i used like a knife / screwdriver combo i groiydn the hole bigger untill the tube went thru with a tight squeze. This seemed to work as the res weight (empty) was suppotrted by the tube alone. Next was to silicon the join to seal it and hopefully add a little strength. (will wait 48 hours instead of 24 this time to dry). If that doesnt work anyone got any other bonding solutions that would be liekly to work as i cant afford a new pump and res at moment. Well this is now in the garden drying in the sun. Fingers crossed it will survive the tugging test and then the water dry run as such. Here are some more pics
"IF" it doesn't work you may want to think about putting a fitting in the hole. Some kind of barbed fitting with a nut to hold it on the inside of the tank. It may give you the mechanical strength you need. Hopefully your current fix will hold. Good luck!
where could i get a brab if its stronger ill get one asap and redo this temp join. wish i had spare cash right now to replae the whole lot. and hoe much space would be barb take up inside roughly as the put connects to a rubber gromet (square red thign u can see). There isnt mush space maybe a spare mm to 3 tops then id have to cut the grommet down.
Sorry, I did not have a specific part in mind, just a concept to use a nut and fitting to compress the plastic and distribute the load. I was just suggesting going down to the hardware store and looking through there stock of small plumbing fittings. You may have to combine two or more to get the part you need.
Do not think of it as plumbing. Just look at all the small stuff until you find a combination of things that will solve your problem. You are probably not going to use the parts as they were intended to be used. Do not forget that parts can be cut, filed, bent, and glued to make it work. It will be true modding at its best.
got up today, was the 24 hours dgoen for the silicon. gave it a test in the bucket pumping water thru to test for leaks all seemed ok. so i put all the componants (non electrical) back in the case and connected all the tubing cut to the right lengths this time (from when i first got the case, big mistake). So its in the garden at the moment with more silicon added to help prevetn anythign from even thinkign about leaking. so ill leave it like this untill the morning though indoors overnightand p[ray there isnt a single drop or any indication level has dropped. then hopefully i can get rid of this damm fan on my nice new p4
back in the house now, nice n sunny outside, so hot i expect any leakage would dry imediately b4 i noticed it. Anyways, it helped the silicoin drying process. As you can see, now back in the house with paper to catch any loose drops that ,ight arise, all seems fine though. Will leave it runnign till tommorrow night, then if all still seems ok its time to risk the components back inside. on a more permanent note, might have to order a barb and fit it if i can make room. the pump instake is right next to the polastic side, with only a small amount of room the the rubber pad to process it through. lots of trimmign i think to fit a barb, but worth the effort long term. Anyone have any suggestions for better testing or fixing methods?
Well, I'm going to tell you that unfortunately nothing really sticks to silicone. So, useing another adhesive is out of the question unless you remove all of the silicone and are sure all traces are gone. As far as another adhesive to try, try and find some epoxy resin. it is a two part glue that when mixed properly hardens and is extremely strong. You would need to prep the area by making sure that all traces of the silicone are goneotherwise the epoxy resin will not stick. You also need to lightly sand the area to be glued for the epoxy resin to better take hold. Once it has hardened, the epoxy will be stronger than the tube and the resivoir. Those two objects will break long before the epoxy will. It should not be to expensive for just the small ammount that you would need to fix that.
thanx for the tip ill have to give that a go in a few eeks its holdign ok at the moment and the case dfoesnt get moved. but ill have to look at a permanent fix
Theres this stuff called "Plumbers Goop" - so far out of the 3 leaks I've had, I stopped them with this stuff. It dries clear and hard, but is still flexible enough to keep from snapping if jerked at a weird angle. It rocks.
