Cooling Watercooling Setup Recommendations

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by bradman, 8 Jul 2002.

  1. bradman

    bradman What's a Dremel?

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    I am sort of a watercooling noobie so I have a few questions

    How is this for a system /


    2 black Ice xtreme fire red
    1/2 inch tubing
    DD Cylindar Reservoir
    Artic Silver 3
    Artic Allumina epoxy
    Danger Den Geforce 4 waterblock
    Maze 3
    Eheim 1040 600 gph
    water wetter
    screw metal hose clamps
    3 120 mm delta fans.

    How is everything I will be using it on a pentium 4 2.26b fchip.

    Thanks

    Brad
     
  2. scopEDog

    scopEDog Minimodder

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    Welcome to the forums bradman :) Lets take a look:

    -2 black Ice xtreme fire red - why 2??
    -1/2 inch tubing - looks good (aim for tygon 3603 if you have the spare cash)
    -DD Cylindar Reservoir - looks good
    -Artic Silver 3 - looks good
    -Artic Allumina epoxy - looks good although it can mount on alot of cards without epoxy
    -Danger Den Geforce 4 waterblock - nobody has really done testing on this so your on your own..
    -Maze 3 - this is personal preference, because again nobody has done testing...i would rather get the tc-4 but thats just me :)
    -Eheim 1040 600 gph - too much gph i think...try the 1250
    -water wetter - looks good
    -screw metal hose clamps - looks good
    -3 120 mm delta fans - if you have one rad then 2 120mm's should offer good cooling..one in and one out
     
  3. bradman

    bradman What's a Dremel?

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    Will parallel cooling be that much better then series cooling.
     
  4. bradman

    bradman What's a Dremel?

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    one more question , I have this case.

    Should I put the radiator / radiators at the top back of the case, the very top of teh case or the bottom corner of the case by the bezel.



    [​IMG]
     
  5. Coolrunnin

    Coolrunnin What's a Dremel?

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    Hi bradman :)

    To answer a few of your questions -

    1) Yes running your blocks in parallel will perform a lot better than if they are in series (cold water to each rather than the GPU getting cooled by already warmed water)

    2) The GF4 block is a very well made peice of kit and I'd recommend it to you - nice and solid construction and I've had no leakage problems from mine during testing at all :)

    3) if you can, put the rad at the bottom front of the case with fans sucking arif from outside the case through it - That ensures the rad will be most efficient :)

    .... and you definitely DON'T need 2 BIXs if you're only cooling the CPU and GPU :) unless you've got huge TECs on both blocks and are cooling your HDDs and everything else !
     
    Last edited: 8 Jul 2002
  6. scopEDog

    scopEDog Minimodder

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    whoa...its like deja vu..i just saw that case exactly how you see it in that picture this weekend..freaky :eeek: I know there has been alot of debate on series vs. parallel when running more than one block. I always thought that water could carry enough heat for 2 blocks (thats why i run my dually in series). I would say if room permits...try the parallel setup. But if your having a hard time setting up the tubes (and i don't think you will with that monster case) then try the series setup.

    As far as the BIX is concerned...i would try and mount it externally, right above the PS (is that a 120mm hole?) cause for me it doesn't make much sense putting it in a hot case. But again thats only if you can..

    Oh nice case btw :)
     
  7. bradman

    bradman What's a Dremel?

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    Thanks Alot for you great help guys

    : )
     
  8. [GiB] Spawny

    [GiB] Spawny Xqpack Lovin

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    I'd be tempted to have the rad at the top.

    Will a little modification you can mount it above the PSU. The plate is removabale so modding wouldn't be to dificult. You'll have plenty of room to vent the system at the top should you want to.

    Keep us posted.
     
  9. Haddy

    Haddy World Domination

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    3 120mm deltas? dude makin a hovercraft are we?? only way it could possibly be louder is to actually put a 747 right next to ur ear.....*sarcastic* i would say get a heatercore and just use some nice panflos or something.....have the dual 120mm fan heatercore at the top and duct the cold air through the back 120 hole.....
     
  10. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    Whoa Bradman! Important: do NOT use Arctic Silver on a P4!

    Why? Well, Arctic Silver does have some electrically conductive properties. If you look at the P4 heat spreader (the square metal part covering the top of the chip) you'll notice a tiny hole: this is apparently to relieve internal air pressure when the top gets pressed on by clamping on a heatsink (or water block, as the case may be). You do NOT want any electrically conductive compounds to get in there. However non-conductive paste will do no harm whatsoever.

    If you decide to use an AMD chip, you want to keep the Arctic Silver on the die only, and away from the surface mounted components surrounding it. But we knew that allready, didn't we?

    :D
     
  11. bradman

    bradman What's a Dremel?

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    thanks for the tips bro, I will probably just end up using artic allumina.

    PeAze

    Brad
     
  12. iggy

    iggy Minimodder

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    how bout that new liquid metal stuff??

    hold that, youll have the same problem as as3.

    was there not a time when you were only supposed to use a.s with p4? cos it shorted out athlons?
     
  13. bradman

    bradman What's a Dremel?

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    now I have another dillema, I talked to fixxitt and he said the p4 478 version of the spir@l polycarbonite topped waterblock will be out in a week or so. So should I go with Lucite topped Maze 3 or Polycarbonite topped Spir@l.

    Also another thing is BIX the best radiator for its size you can get on the market today.

    Another Question which reservoir would you choose

    Danger Den Cylidner Res
    [​IMG]

    or

    OCH

    Anodized Res

    One last Question

    This Pump

    CMD 12V

    or this pump

    Eheim 1060 608 gph water pump


    Thanks Again , in

    Advance

    Brad
     
  14. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    Iggy2k,

    AS3 will short out Athlons if it gets to the exposed components on the chip, such as the resistors, bridges etc., and therefore should be kept on the die itself. Problem is that it has been known that with vibrations (such as caused by heatsink fans) the compound can dissociate a bit, that is, the liquid separates from the solid particles, and drips down the die on to said components. Zzappp!!!

    This is not a problem with water cooling of course, as the water block does not vibrate. No fan, see?

    Bradman,

    regarding your dilemma: the aluminium res from OCH comes with a marine bilge pump, not rated for continuous use. A high failure rate has been reported. Don't use. OCH now sells the res on its own. No problems there.

    The CMD 12V pump is a Jabsco pump. Potentially a good candidate, but we're examining it. I refer you to the "Jabsco Pump" thread on this forum.

    The Eheim 1060 pump is overkill. You really do not need more than 300 GPH max.; anything more just ends up pushing against a wall of flow resistance and really heating up the pump (and the coolant!).
     
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