Education We Like to Ride Bicycles

Currently in the planning stages of a Yeti 575 build.
should look something like this, but my build will be mainly Hope, SRAM x9 with Fox Kashima suspension.




Hope to be completed end of the year. My Blindside still needs selling to buy the frame.

 

Hi there!

I'll start off by saying that whilst I've never ridden a Madone for any great length of time, I've worked on plenty and given them test spins and have always been well impressed. They're one of the better regarded road bikes out there at the moment, but I do question why you would buy such for yourself, given your current fitness level and plans for it's usage. If spending an arm and a leg on a bike designed for short, high-powered efforts is what you want then so be it, but I will caution you that the bike will murder you on longer, more casual rides without substantial modification. There are roadie options out there designed for the more "casual" rider (however you describe that) which work much better on longer rides and don't disintegrate your spine the second you so much as glance sideways at it.

If you at all value comfort for yourself in hopes that you'll continue riding for the pleasure of it, look more into various manufacturers' "sport" categories (think Specialized Roubaix or Trek Madone 4 or 3 series), as these are designed with exactly what you have in mind: casual Sunday rides with speed on city pathways. These bikes will be better designed for vertical compliance, have a less aggressive positioning, and don't absolutely compromise pleasure for power.

Secondly, when looking at a used bike there are a few things you need to check, below is my short checklist of Must-Do's:

* Brake pads! Since you're looking for a bike that utilizes rim-brakes, you'll note very specific vertical running grooves (like this). Brake pads need to be replaced once these grooves disappear, so it will serve as a good indication as to how much life they have left (and how much the bike has been used - more or less anyway)

* Braking surface. Bring an absolutely straight, flat surface with you. Place it on the rim so one end sits just below where the tyre enters the rim, letting the other end of the flat implement rest against the other side of the rim (in a line to the centre of the wheel - where the axle is). If there is more than 1mm between any part of the flat implement and the rim, then the rim will need to be replaced (otherwise you'll get this).

* Bearings. Check every single thing on the bicycle that rotates for the following signs: Excessive vibration (a little is okay); Play/looseness; Obvious external signs of rust/advanced wear; Excessive resistance to movement.

* Cables. Ensure the brakes/shifters work, and are smooth to operate, as otherwise you'll be looking at replacing some cables and housing. Do not operate the shifters whilst the bike is stationary, as you'll do damage and look rather silly. If you cannot take the bike out for a test ride, ask the seller to hold the rear of the bike up for you while you pedal and shift through the gears, so ensuring that they all engage properly and there isn't excessive drag felt through the shifter.

* Tyres. A tyre should never be square, so if the one you're looking at is, then it has probably seen a few thousand miles and may very well need replacing.

* Cracks/frame damage. Buyer beware! I've seen it far too many times where some low-life will try to shift a frameset that they've damaged quite badly onto somebody else, without warning about said damage. More than once I've called up a customer to tell them that their frame is cracked and cannot be ridden only to learn that the bike was just acquired second-hand with the assurance that it was in fantastic shape, but the customer just couldn't place their finger on what felt "wrong" or "off" about the bike, hence why they brought it into a shop in the first place. This isn't pleasant for anybody involved. Keep your eye out for anything that looks like this, or for any dents near to a weld (small dents/scratches/scuffs aren't a problem generally speaking, particularly when they're towards the centre of a tubeset). Examine where the wheels connect to the frame/fork as well, since these are often areas of excessive wear! If they look gnarled or excessively worn, you may want to look elsewhere.

* "Drop" test. Pick the bike up by an inch or two, then let go, let it hit the ground and bounce a little ensuring to grab it once more before it falls over. Listen carefully. Do you hear anything loose? Does something sound like it is knocking? The chain and derailleur will obviously be making noise as do the cables and their housing to a certain extent, but a loose headset, cracked frame, or loose componentry will make a sound all of their own over and above whatever else is going on, so keep a keen ear open. Believe it or not this is rather a standard technique used by mechanics such as myself to suss out strange noises and problem bicycles.

Beyond these key things, the rest is basically obvious wear and tear patterns that should be rather self evident and will impact how much you are willing to pay for said bicycle. I would caution you not to discount a particular bike due to it having one or more of the above issues, as things can be fixed and replaced, so a good deal can still be had on a sub-par bike - particularly if you're armed with the knowledge of what a potentially well-used bike looks like (most smart buyers will use such to talk the seller down in price). But no matter what you get, ensure you take it to a qualified mechanic for a good once-over after you buy it, as otherwise you may be in for a quite nasty surprise once out on the road!


Cannot think of anything else to cover, but if you come up with something else you wish to ask please feel free to post once again and I'll do my utmost to answer it. Best of luck with your new bike purchase, and please post pictures!

 

Mine at the moment, can't wait to get back home from uni now and ride!

Bought a bike years ago and it has slowly been upgraded, not a single component is the same now.

 

Hello everyone,

I'm planning to build one of This but in my own vision.. I don't want it to be that long.. I'm only 5'9 to 5'10. What am I missing? I have the tyres, handlebars. Yes that's it.. I don't have the materials to build the frame and the axle yet.. I'm just asking everyone on what I'm missing for the parts..

 

Hey, thanks for such a detailed and helpfull reply! And those tips will definatly come in handy if I do find a bike that I like! Thanks a billion. I hadn't consider the disadvantages in comfort that comes with these high-end bikes.

Most of my friends bought a sensible-priced new BTwin bike from Decathlon (major sports store, Btwin is there house-brand) for just under 1k euro. They get a alu frame with a partly carbon fork with Btwin parts and some Shimano 105 gear. All things considered, quite a nice setup for this price range.

Riding road bikes is very popular in Belgium. We have quite a bit of professional riders/teams and a lot of famous races. People love the sport and want to get out there as well.. they buy expensive bikes, go out for a dozen rides and then quit. So it's not that hard to find a high end bike used for bargain prices. I reckon I can get a nice pro-level bike, for around that 1k euro mark, that has only done about 1k km's.

I did some research on those roubaix bikes and they do seem to be a better fit for my use, thanks for your suggestion. They seem to offer the most comfort possible on a road bike. I've just found a used Specialized Roubaix Elite bike, 2011 model in my size. I've contacted to seller to negotiate on price. If it works out, I would be getting a full carbon high-end A-brand bike, with full 105 gear for the same budget.

Cheers, Michiel.

 

Not a problem at all, I do this for a living after all! And it is fantastic to hear you've found a good deal on a Roubaix, as they are a very nice riding bike, so I'm sure you'll love it.

The trend of yuppies buying expensive bikes they don't use isn't unique to Belgium, let me assure you I get people in my store daily with old and very expensive bikes that they've basically never used over the past 10-20 years, but they've decided to "pick the hobby up again" (though I feel it's more due to the fact that they cannot see their feet any longer causing the impetus) and thus require some work done on them. Most of the time I charge them a pittance and wipe the dust off, giving them some reassuring words in the hopes that they stick with it this time. But it does mean there are always good quality used options out there, so it cannot be all bad.

 

I'm not having much luck contacting the seller. I've sent him an email and just tried calling him, bouth without any answer. I texted him, hope he gets back at me soon as I'm really liking these roubaix bikes. Also, the sun finally started showing itself today and I really want to get out there and make a fool out of myself on my shiny new yuppy roubaix bike with my poor fitness level.

A friend just sent me a link to bustedcarbon.com. Should I be worried about this? They seem to break at every pothole or when its windy, lol. Also a lot of Specialized stuff in there. I'm sure thats only after heavy abuse or in accidents?

Anyway, totally unrelated to the road bike, but still bike related. My daily bike to get to town and to go out is an old gazelle. Its pretty beat up and most of the stuff is damaged and needs replacing, I figure I better just keep this as back up and get a whole new bike instead of fixing everything.

My only requirements are :
- bulletproof, low maintenance, can take a beating/drunk rider
- everything should be in the wheel hubs!
(gears (3 is sufficient), brakes, dynomo for lights)

I can't seem to find any bikes with stuff in the hubs anymore..?

 

Looks cool man, are you thinking of posting a project log? I'd love to see some photos of the build.

As for parts you'll need a headset, forks, bottom bracket, pedals, chainset, chain, wheels, brakes, brake cables (inner and outer), gear cables (inner and outer) brake levers, gear shifters, seat, handle bar grips.... I think that's everything.

 

Awesome website is awesome.

 

In a word: no. In a few words: it isn't something to worry about.

Fact is, everything that has been created breaks. There is no exception to this rule, and bicycles along with their individual components are not above it either. It is generally accepted in the industry that for hard riders, professionals, and rather avid cyclists there is a "fatigue" life in the frame that if exceeded, will show itself via failure. For modern carbon road frames it is about 2-5 years (dependant upon manufacturer and model), for DH frames (any of them) it is a single season - there is a reason most manufacturers don't provide warranties on their downhill sleds. Don't misinterpret what I'm saying here though: just because you're buying a used carbon bike doesn't mean you have cause for concern, as it isn't unusual to find a first generation carbon bike still rolling about on the trails, despite their anticipated fatigue life being fractional to those of modern bikes. But as a piece of anecdotal evidence, I can say that of the thousands upon thousands of bikes I see in a year, only a very tiny proportion of them are broken, and the balance is strongly in favour of aluminium frames (as in: I see proportionally more broken, cracked, or fatally damaged aluminium framesets than I do carbon). As ever though, your mileage may vary.

Incidentally, if you're interested in the generally accepted fatigue life for other frame materials, I would happily do a write up for you. It's quite boring but interesting nonetheless

Why haven't you looked into Gazelle yet? If you liked your old one, I would happily recommend a new one, as they've not changed a whole heck of a lot over the years (I'm rather certain that they would take pride in that statement too, if my Gazelle rep is anything to go by). I can understand the frustration at the moment for people looking at buying internally geared bikes though, as there is quite a world-wide shortage of them at the moment, so they are thin on the ground (most of my suppliers just physically don't have anything to sell me at the moment, as they cannot get parts fast enough to get the bikes out). Thank Shimano for this, as everybody is suffering as a result.

But anyway, enough of a rant, you want bikes. So let's talk about bikes! If you can get them I would heartily recommend considering a Linus, as they're cheap, effective, and look well composed for what they are and what they do. Bobbin would be another one to consider as well, as they do some very wonderful looking and working bikes, though for both of these brands you'll have issue finding a used example simply due to customer satisfaction and how reliable they are, so a new purchase may be in order.

In any case, "city" bikes (as they tend to be known in the industry) are out there, it's just a matter of finding them thanks to the hub shortage at the moment. Best of luck in any case.

 

I already have the pedals, wheels, forks, and handlebars.. I forgot to mention the rest.. and I may post a project log.. just need to do a blueprint type thing.. so I can see what I am supposed to put where.. at this spot.. etc..

Also, I'm going to build a seat.. I don't like the ones that comes with your bike.. I can't stay upright on the seat for too long..

 

Dude, that Yeti 575 is sweet Always wanted a Yeti but got a Blur LT instead...

 

Hi Again! Thanks for your reply, yes I should have looked at Gazelle to begin with. I'm sure I'll find a nice bike with them again, thanks. I'll focus on a getting a nice road bike first.

So I found a used 2011 Roubaix Elite in good condition. Seller is asking too much though and he isn't responding to my offer. I've called every specialized dealer in my area to find a used, demo, rent or older model without any luck. These bikes are very sought after and sell very quickly.

I went to a dealer and he suggested I had a look at the Secteur Elite. The frame is basically a roubaix copy but with an alu triangle and carbon forks front and back. It comes with the new tiagra group (except brakes) which according to the dealer is pretty much identical to the previous 105 group. It sells for just under 1k euro brand new, which I think is a very good deal.

A new Roubaix base model comes with the full carbon frame and full tiagra set for 1.800 euro.

I also found a used 2009 Tarmac Comp 20, full 105 group with all the necessary add ons (seller claims to have only done about 500km and sells everything: shoes, glasses, bike-computer, bike-stand, helmet). He is asking 1.300 euro , too rich for me (for a used bike), but I could try to talk him down closer to the lovely 1k euro mark.

I know the tarmac will be a less comfortable ride.. so I'm leaning towards a brand shiny new Secteur Elite at the moment. But the Tarmac would be a complete kit, ready to go and full carbon.

What do you think is the best option for me?

cheers and sorry to ask so many questions.

 

For you, I would go with a Secteur in a heart beat, particularly if you're getting it new! You will not be disappointed. And from the sounds of it, the dealer is spot on with what he is saying (I've not had a good enough play with the new Tiagra kit, but have heard good things about it, and the individual bits seem well nice for the price).

 

Last question, next post will be with pictures of my shiny new bike!

I was all ready to go and buy myself a shiny new 2012 Specialized Secteur Elite x3 for 1.000 euro that would get me a roubaix styled alu frame, carbon forks, tiagra group (except brakes). I'd still need to buy pedals, shoes, bottle holders, computer and maybe even a helmet.

But now the guy with his used Tarmac replied and he is willing to take 1.000 euro for :
- 2009 Specialized Tarmac Comp 20 (full carbon frame, 105 group)
- Cateye Strada Double Wireless
- Time Xed pedals
- Sidi Carbon Millenium shoes (my size)
- Specialized Adaptile glasses
- Bell Volt helmet
- Bikestand

He claims he has only done about 300 miles / 500 km on it. Overall I think it is a very good deal, if it is in the condition the seller is claiming it is. I get a complete kit, a full carbon bike and a better group for the same price. It won't be the roubaix style that I've started falling in love with though.. this is more a classic road bike.

Every dealer/friend that has given me advice can be put into two categories
- roubaix geometry fans , who would pick the secteur any day
- carbon fans , who just wouldn't touch an alu bike even if it is roubaix geometry

:-/

 

Two things: ignore people that tell you to ignore a bike based purely upon frame material (at least when their argument consists entirely of "Carbon r grate! Metal is teh sux!"), because these people are talking out of their arse. Frame material is only a very small aspect of how a bike will actually ride, with geometry, quality, and design playing massively more important roles in feel and feedback. Yes, it is a nice aesthetic to say you have carbon, but it doesn't actually mean anything unless you state why it is good in that specific application (such as: "X carbon frameset has Y% less lateral flex than a comparable aluminium frame from the same manufacturer while still retaining vertical compliance"). Frameset material is not a noteworthy metric under any circumstances.

Secondly, I'll let you in on a little secret: pre2011 Shimano road components feel like rubbish compared to the new stuff So with that Tarmac you'll be getting an older generation 105 groupo, which will feel mushy and soft compared to even the modern Tiagra groupo. Don't let levels fool you here, as Shimano have really stepped up their game over the past couple years in feel, fit and finish - particularly in the lower end of the market (where you're buying, incidentally) There is also the warranty to think about as well as the age of the frameset (pro tip: sellers always lie. Always).

If you want more a personal experience, then that I can provide seeing as I own a 2005 Allez Cro-Mo, which is essentially a steel version of the Tarmac. Mine happens to be kitted out with the best of the best kit as bought new last year (seriously, if you were to buy everything at retail you'd be paying $10,000cdn - before you got to buying the frame). Truth be told it is an amazing bike from start to finish, handling like nothing else I've ever straddled, but because everything is so tight and intolerant of failure I don't like to push it under adverse conditions, like when the tyres are a bit cold, or there is the possibility of some moisture, or if I'm just feeling a bit "off" that morning, as I know I'll end up mucking it up somehow because of how narrow the knife-edge is on that bike. In comparison, my Tricross (which is a bit more upright and tighter than a Roubaix would be) is the bike I grab when I just want to go fast, hard, and destroy other peoples dreams - in the worst weather and conditions possible irrespective of how I am feeling. When I get into a two-wheeled slide in a corner that I took well too quickly, the bike allows me to control it and encourages further stupid mistakes that you can easily remedy just through it's "positive" feedback and general feel. This is not something I can do on or say about my Allez. Note that this says nothing to comfort, as I would certainly take the Tricross for that any day, but this is a serious performance note that I would hope you take to heart. It isn't always about fast reactions and split-second efficiency.

Flat-out race bikes do not like you and want to inflict serious injury and insult to you and especially to your dog, so they will punish you for every slight mistake - and hard. There is no tolerance for weak back muscles or white knuckles. Bit of a rough road? Tough, deal with the numbness. Went into a corner too quickly? You didn't need the skin on your legs anyway. This is where bikes like the Roubaix (and obviously the Secteur) excel, as they love to allow you to do what you want while still performing exceptionally well. There are compromises, but they allow you more freedom and comfort without sacrificing performance (all bikes make a compromise between performance and comfort really, it's just a matter of finding where on the scale your fitness and dedication allow you to tread).

Let's be honest though: take each for a ride and see which works best for you under the conditions you'll be putting it through. I will happily talk all day about theory and personal and professional experience, but nothing will match the insight of just riding the damn things and seeing what suits you.

 

I finally decided and I've bought a 2012 Specialized Secteur Elite Triple this morning! I'll have to go back on thursday, or maybe tuesday to have it set up for my body (have to ride it stationary and they will set everything up properly) and then I can finally take that beauty home! I was debating on upgrading the seat to a Loupe like on the Roubaix.. but decided to try it out 'as is' for this summer before upgrading anything.

click for pic!

I think I've made the most sensible decision considering my fitness level and how I will use the bike. Hopefully I will keep riding for a few years, improve my fitness level and then splash out on a real Roubaix or who knows, maybe even a Tarmac.

Thanks again for all your advice! I've also bought some SIDI road shoes on sale, Shimano Road Pedals, a wireless Specialized bike computer and offcours two red specialized bottle holders. I've already ordered a full outfit from my company (we don't do anything bike related, but the CEO is a cyclist and he had outfits mayde with the company logo on it and we can buy them). Only thing left is a some lights, a helmet and a spare tube.

So another week of anticipation, will update with more pictures when I finally get the bike.

 

Wonderful to hear! I'm glad you got what suited you, as it always pains me to see people on woefully poorly chosen bikes struggling and getting upset with the sport. You'll have a better chance to stick with it if you're not being punished with every rotation

Insofar as a saddle goes, I would whole-heartedly recommend something from the Specialized range (honest, I'm not paid by them - any more), and ensure you get fitted properly to the width of the saddle (for instance I ride on a 130mm saddle, as any wider and it causes comfort issues). And that Toupe is precisely the model I most favour from them at that, so good pick on it! Though keep in mind that their saddles are specifically designed to be used with lightly-padded shorts, so you may experience some discomfort just wearing jeans, though I found this to be short lived and now don't mind using any of my Specialized saddles for extended periods of time in casual wear.

However, if you're looking for something that'll outlast the rest of the bike and get comfier the longer you use it, look no further than Brooks. They are expensive and heavy, but once broken in they are single-handedly the best thing to plonk your buttocks upon for hour upon hour. Something like this would look properly swank on that bike! Once again I own a couple Brooks saddles and cannot help but praise them for how nice they are to use, and I also have many customers on them that cannot help but comment on what a difference it has made in their cycling life. So that is certainly something I would recommend looking into.

Last thing: I did not see you mention gloves. If you haven't already, please do pick up a set as they are one of the more useful bits of protective kit you'll own (a helmet and glasses are wonderful, but your hands are not something to be trifled with). Get something comfortable, breathable, and with as little padding on the palm as possible. Trust me on this. I'm too tired to do a proper write-up on why this is important and why you should never need super-plush padding on your bars, but just go with it for now I'll probably return with some proper information in this regard later to aide you in bicycle fit (just because they do a "fit" doesn't mean that it will be optimal, as it is still more art than science - for now just be sure that you've some bend in your elbows when sat comfortably on the bike with your hands in a normal riding position).

Anyway, I'm done ranting for the moment, have fun with your new purchase!

 

Some good advice in here so wondered if anyone can give me a hand. I have a trek 1.7 2009. I was involved in an accident where the frame and rear wheel were written off. however all the components are fine (shimano and 105 group set). Would it be possible to source a frameset and my components be a straight fit? I have a budget of about £300.

 

Is it not insured? When I had an accident with a car and my frame buckled my insurers paid out for a new one