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Education We Like to Ride Bicycles

Discussion in 'General' started by RTT, 8 May 2008.

  1. Lovah

    Lovah Apple and Canon fanboy

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    Thanks for the info! I found a blog about these bikes and they seem cool, I see they also offer a belt drive system wich I would like. They don't seem to be on the Trek official website though? Have they stopped producing these bikes?

    Where did you get yours?

    If they are cheap enough (compared to the schindelhauer) I might get one!

    cheers
     
  2. Jamie

    Jamie ex-Bit-Tech code junkie

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    Yeah seems they are changing the District line up for this year. I have a contact at Trek so I managed to get myself one of last years models. The best drive system was a lot more expensive so I went for the chain.
     
  3. MrP

    MrP seeking inspiration

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    hi guys,

    i'm after a bit or advice, or hand holding!!

    i'm trying to lose a bit of weight and get fit at the mo, so i've been doing a bit in the gym, and trying to get out on my bike.

    I've got a old grisley mega 10 which is showing its age and annoying me.
    At the mo, none of the gears work correctly (front or rear) , i'm not happy with the brakes, and something creaks when i stand on the pedals to get up a hill.

    is it worth me getting it fixed up, or do i just scrap it and buy something newer.

    all i'm really cycling is some gravel cycle routes and though town, if i could get this one sorted for not too much money i'd be happy too, but i'm not sure where the line is where its better to spend the money and get something new thats going to just work!

    If its worth getting something newer, what should i be looking for? its only going to be used a couple of times a week and i'm just riding pavements and gravel tracks at the mo, i'm not going to be doing any jumps or serious downhilling!

    thanks
     
  4. Lance

    Lance Ender of discussions.

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    Whats your budget like?

    I recently had my 7 year old Carerra Fury put through a service for £27 at a local bike store (Bigfoot bikes).

    This made a 100% difference in the bike. The guys there did a great job and gave me some good advice.

    I would suggest taking your bike to a local store and see what they suggest.
     
  5. MrP

    MrP seeking inspiration

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    really dont know at the mo.

    just been into the local edinburgh bike shop who said to take it in and they'll have a look and give me a price for the work.

    i cant help but feel that it might cost £100 to get it all right (new cables, service, sort the creak) and for £100 i might be better off getting putting money in and getting something like this
     
  6. steveo_mcg

    steveo_mcg What's a Dremel?

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    If your in Edinburgh take it to The Bicycle works on Argyle Place or Pedals on Barclay Place. Both are dedicated repair shops and will do you a better price (most likely) than the retail stores they're also less likely to try to sell you a new bike.

    On the other hand if the bike is beyond economic repair and EBC revolution will do you fine.
     
  7. MrP

    MrP seeking inspiration

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    i'm in newcastle, their shop was the easiest while i was on lunch.

    [​IMG]

    this is what mine looks like, its got shimano alivio gears on it.

    i'll get soome pics and details tonight
     
    Last edited: 29 Aug 2012
  8. steveo_mcg

    steveo_mcg What's a Dremel?

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    Hard to tell just by looking at tbh, probably repairable with minimal parts whether its worth spending the money over a new one is tricky. Find a good bike shop who specialise in repairs rather than retail they'll probably give you a better steer than EBC (Edinburgh Bicycle Coop) who, in Edinburgh at least, don't have the best reputation for repairs but are an excellent retailer.

    The Hardrock you linked to is a good bike, might be more money than you need to spend though, depending on how rough the tracks are something like this might be better.
     
  9. dullonien

    dullonien Master of the unfinished.

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    My guesses regarding the faults would be:

    The gears are easily adjustable with a bit of patience. There are two small screws next to each other that control how far the mech can move in either direction. Put the bike in first gear and adjust the screw that controls that side (easy to find out which with trial and error) so that everything runs smooth (turning the bike upside down and getting someone to slowly turn the pedals works well). Once that's ok, shift down to the lowest gear (remembering to also shift the front/rear at the same time to keep the chainline as it should) and adjust the other screw until that too runs smoothly. Now check that all the inbetween gears shift smoothly and run without noise, make small adjustments to the screws to fine tune.

    If the gear cable has stretched, sometimes just adjusting these screws won't work, and the cable will need to be tightened slightly (if not replaced if it's in bad shape), this can usually be done at the shifter end, where there's an adjuster that you turn around the cable housing which comes out of the shifter. It's basically a combination of this + the adjustment screws on the mech to get the gearing to run perfectly smoothly again.

    On top of this, clean the chain and mechs of any built up dirt/oil, and re-apply some chain oil (not too much). This will do wonders if it's not been done in a while.

    All of this could be futile if parts such as the chain or cogs are rusted. In which case it's likely that you'd need a new chain and cassette, and possibly new chainrings as well.

    Regarding the brakes, these are also easily adjusted if they're not working correctly. New brake pads are cheap enough usually. It's also worth checking the condition of the brake cables, any sign of rust and they will stretch and not run smoothly, and need to be replaced.

    The creaking sound when pedaling is most likely to be a loose crank bolt. You'd either need a socket spanner or a largeish allen key to tighten. Alternatively it could be a worn bearing in one of the pedals, or a worn bottom bracket.

    All of this is easily fixed by a bike shop.

    If your going to be riding on the road, seriously consider changing the tires for some smoother road ones, the difference is huge. Much quieter too.

    Also, that seat looks incredibly low. You should have your seat so that when you're riding your legs almost straighten when the pedal is down. This way your legs won't seize up whilst riding.
     
  10. Cookie Monster

    Cookie Monster Multimodder

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    MrP come down to The Cycle Hub on the quayside and see me! I'm off Fri and Sun, don't know my days off next week yet.

    Or drop a few doors down from Edinbrough bikes to Cycle Center as I indirectly work for them too.
     
    Last edited: 30 Aug 2012
  11. MrP

    MrP seeking inspiration

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    Thanks for the offer, was going to stick it in the boot tonight and take it down to Edinburgh bike shop, so I'll bring it down tommorow lunchtime if your in

    To stop me sounding daft at the counter asking for the bloke from bit tech, who should I ask for?
     
  12. jamesriley94

    jamesriley94 What's a Dremel?

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  13. fuus

    fuus Rocking All Year Christmas

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  14. Cookie Monster

    Cookie Monster Multimodder

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    Cookie Monster of course, or the bike dude, or even if you wanna play safe Chris.
     
  15. Malvolio

    Malvolio .

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    No. The limit screws only adjust the outer and inner limit of movement of the derailleur, not movement between. The rest of it was sound(ish) advice though, if a bit over simplistic :p
     
  16. dullonien

    dullonien Master of the unfinished.

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    Well, that makes sense. I do find that they need a small tweak at the end though, not always sure why. After all, there's a small range where it will run smoothly on the top or bottom cog, but won't shift smoothly onto said cog. That's what I was getting at, but it still doesn't quite make sense I agree. All I know is that's how it tends to be for me.
     
  17. woof82

    woof82 What's a Dremel?

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    Are wheels trued before sale? I spent about £30 on a new front wheel for my city bike and it's not as true as the previous front or the rear wheel which has had three replaced spokes done by me. Admittedly I think I spent over an hour truing it, but I didn't have a jig or experience, I just did it.

    Should I get upset about this or just suck it up and find the time to straighten it out myself (not my favourite job).
     
  18. dullonien

    dullonien Master of the unfinished.

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    Where'd you buy it from? If from a local shop, take it back and ask them to true it. Wheels are trued before sale, but due to the metal in the spokes stretching slightly (and other small things), new wheels tend to need small tweaks for a while afterwards. I'm not sure if this is true for all wheels or not. My friend bought a new bike a couple of years ago, and the wheels on that required attention a few times as the spokes settled to their final 'position' (not quite the correct word, but can't think of a better one atm). This was done free of charge of course from the shop he purchased the bike from.
     
  19. Malvolio

    Malvolio .

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    If you need to readjust the limit screws to get the chain to change into the outer cogs after your initial adjustment, then you didn't adjust the limit screws properly the first time ;) They only need to be adjusted enough to prevent the chain from coming off, but not so much as to prevent the chain from going onto the cog.

    Machine built wheels suck. Between the inferior building process, shipping, and storage, new wheels are always out of true and require a bit of a tweak before installation. A good shop will take care of this before sale - as it's a quick enough job to do while the sale happens - but a bad shop will just ignore it. If it bothers you take it back and get them to true it (before you install it, as otherwise they can easily argue that you "damaged" it, as lame and untrue of an excuse as that is), otherwise just run it for a little while if it clears your brake pads and true the wheel after a few hours of use when it naturally settles and goes out of true anyway. Regardless, a little bit of wobble is more than acceptable and is not something you will ever notice. Even with a super responsive tyre, good road conditions, and a stiff bike, it takes a couple mm of wobble before even I can feel it, so don't worry too much about it!
     
  20. Stickeh

    Stickeh Help me , Help you.

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    So after two weeks at current jobs new offices....my bike was nicked from outside work. Joy.

    I need advice on a bike within £500 limit for commuting and also for odd dirt rides - nothing strenuous!

    My old bike was a GT aggressor 1, and I found it with the largest frame size was perfect as this is only around 380? Looking to push my budget and maybe get something better!

    Any help or suggestions appreciated!
     

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