Discussion in 'General' started by RTT, 8 May 2008.
Sorry for not realising right away but where is this shock? Rear?
It is the rear shock.
I can't get a larger bit in, I have hammered it a bit, but I don't really want to be whacking it too much as it's on the suspension top swing arm bit.
I was thinking - could I epoxy a hex key into the almost rounded recess at the top? And then just spin it out. As I will replace the bolt anyway.
Another thing I was thinking - as it's not a blind hole, could I drill in from the other side of the bolt with a normal cutting drill bit in the hope it spins it out? (as I don't have a left handed drill bit to drill in through the head)
Have you tried cutting a slit in the bolt head with a dremel (or saw blade) and using a large flat screw driver on it? 5mm bolt should have plenty of material on it.
there is material, but I can't actually get in to cut a slot as the bolt head is sitting in a recess
If you've got a dremel you could try a well used cutting disk, If its 'used' enough you should be able to get it in to cut a slot in the head of the bolt. Although it depends on how far the bolt is recessed.
I would just grab a 5mm drill bit and drill the head off, shouldn't take more than 30 secs imo
if I drill the top off I could then in theory just take the swing arm assembly to pieces, and then both side plates would come apart, the shock would come out, and I can just remove the stud with some vice grips or something.
That was my thinking, assuming you have to take the rocker link apart anyway for the bearing replacement of course.
Only managed six miles then this happened
I drilled the top off one of the bolts - then I found out another was rounded so I have started drilling that but now apparently my 8mm drillbit is too blunt to take it off! which is annoying as the shops are closed. I haven't got the bearings still so there is no rush. 2 of the 4 bearings in the rocker assembly were completely busted, like shattered busted, came out in bits and shrapnel. I am so glad I am doing all these things before I take the bike out!
Hi all, want to try and fix up a forgotten Raleigh Racer.
Have a few questions that you guys may be able to help with:
1- Rough idea of costs of getting a bike frame powder coated?
2- Can anyone recommend a place in Norwich to do the above?
3- Does anyone have a spare saddle they might be willing to sell, looking for white or brown I reckon, but would consider any plain/strong colour?
4- Does any have any spare handlebar wrap they might be willing to sell, looking for white or brown I reckon, but would consider any plain/strong colour?
All a long shot, but thanks!
1- I was looking around the £80 mark for a good job
3- You can get very cheap saddles by going to your LBS (local bike store). Kinoko cycles have some for £3 + shipping, so if you can get to them you're in.
4- Same for this, find a LBS that is having a sale.
Have you checked out the internals of the bike? Bottom bracket etc? Are you single speeding it?
If you don't mind bar tape that's been barely used but has been put on some bars then I have some white tape - though It's been on a set of bars and in my loft for a while so I am unsure of condition, and I reckon I have no bar ends to go with it. But it's yours if you want it! will grab a pic so you can see condition if you want.
For powder coat, check if you have an alloy repair place local and check out work they do. I had an awesome job on a frame and I'm sure it was only £40-50.
I have a question...
I have 2 rear shocks, an old Fox Float off 6" travel giant reign and a Fox Float RP23 off my 5.2" hustler - the eye to eye difference is like 5mm.
If I put the slightly shorter rp23 shock in the giant reign frame is all hell going to break loose? I am only considering it as side to side they are so similar in size - and the rp23 is a much nicer shock with pro pedal, which I use alot.
I don't see any geometry issues with 5mm difference. If you think about it, just by sitting on the frame you are putting pressure on the shock which is probably more than or equal to 5mm.
What's the stroke length on the two shocks?
Virtual pivot bikes are usually quite tight on frame clearance, if the stroke on the RP23 means that at full travel it'll be shorter than Float would be at the same point then no, don't do it.
If it full compression it's the same length or longer then clearance should be fine, but remember it will arse up the geometry and make the bike feel like it's leaning backwards all the time (5mm on your shock is 1.2-2cm knocked off your bottom bracket height and at least 1 degree off head/seat angle).
I'd try riding it with the stock float before anything else (has that bolt been defeated yet?), it's the correct shock and it might surprise you.
thanks I was hoping to read something along those lines, very helpful.
The bolt has been defeated! and then there was another rounded one, which has also been defeated!
Waiting on so many things to be delivered, I have ordered some enduro bearings for the back end, new top rocker assembly bolts, new shock bolts, the only bolts I am not changing is the bottom rocker as they "seem" fine but to be honest I have left those alone as I mainly wanted to get the shock out so I could service it while I wait for all the other stuff to arrive. I am half tempted to get some new mounts for the shock, maybe definitely a top mount as it was one of the lesser good ones (as apposed to the heavy duty ones) and there is a bit of play in that even off the frame, and I really want to get this bike running nicely as I have now invested a lot of time and money into it!
Booked myself in at bike park wales for Friday 8th November as I want to give this bike a good run in on something a bit tougher than stuff I have around here. and I have a days mountain bike skills lesson on the 20th October - so really I want to get out on my bike again soon as I haven't ridden for nearly 3 weeks
Off to Swinley Forest on Sunday on my P&J.
The bars aren't as wide as they look, they are Answer Pro Taper 720.
I've moved back to mid Wales, so starting to get my bikes in order. I'm starting with my XC bike, sorting out a few issues I had, namely it's twitchy steering and fading brakes on long rides. I've got a few questions I hope someone can help me with:
1. I've purchased a new front disc compatible front wheel, comprising of a Hope Ti Disc hub laced to an X517, matching my rear wheel perfectly. This is the first disc compatible hubs Hope made, and use a splined spider to attack a disc rotor. These spiders are a 5 bolt design, instead of the more common 6 bolt used nowadays. I'm going for a Hope Mono Mini disc brake, and was wondering if anyone knows of a compatible 180mm rotor for my setup?
2. I'm looking for some new all round XC tyres in ~ 2.2 width. I'm very tempted by some lightweight Schwalbe Rocket Ron's in 2.25 flavour. Anyone had any experience with these tyres? Am I asking for trouble if I run these with Maxxis Flyweight tybes?
I am currently running Maxxis Ignitor 2.35 - though they are no way an actual 2.35, more like 2.2, I am really enjoying these tyres, I use them most of the time, unless I am doing anything big and silly and then I put on some dual ply ITS freeride tyres. If it's really dry, I use continental mountain king 2.2 - these are really light tyres, but I get punctures a lot when running them.
5 bolt stuff, I never really even see about anymore, I think you would certainly have to look around second hand for that - maybe put up a wanted on Pink bike?
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