Education We Like to Ride Bicycles

Sheldon Brown refuses physics

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html

I'm not saying your wrong, just not something I have come across only time ive slid out on the road bike was due to sand which is the worst be cause you get road rash, sanded down and sand in the actual road rash.

 

I think conventional wisdom is that aquaplaning doesn't occur with road bicycle tyres because of the small contact point/high pressures and narrow profile, so a tread that acts to clear water isn't necessary. It is possible that what feels like aqua planing could in fact be a complete lack of grip on the wet contaminated surface that lies beneath the standing water. Or maybe the "aquaplaning can't happen because..." theory is flawed.

Regarding Sheldon Brown above, it makes sense to me that the knobbly/rough tread on a tire will interface and conform better to the rough/knobby texture of the road than a slick tyre. The slick tyre may acquire "the shape of the pavement texture" but it at higher pressures may also tend to bridge the textured surface rather than interface with it.

I think it also depends rather a lot on tyre pressure and size. These days the trend/evidence based rational solution (ymmv ) is to run wider tyres at lower pressures than is traditional on a road bike, so this probably has a bearing on the above.

 

My understanding is that bike tyres are thin and run at high pressures, so they displace water much more readily than say car or motorbike tyres. Thus the tread doesn't make any real difference to the ability of the bicycle tyre to displace water. Aquaplaning is equally likely to occur with slick, treaded or knobbly tires (i.e. not very likely - apparently a 25mm tyre at 100psi would need to do 200mph before it aquaplanes).

 

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Re rolling resistance, if you get bored an want to go uber nerd (hi) http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/

I run vittoria Corsa G+ which have a very low rolling resistance much lower in fact than the Pro4's an the vittorias have a straight tread of sorts so may be some truth to it.

In terms of road surface, UK is wenk road surface is coarse an breaks up in drizzle or a light breeze stone size is about the size of your thumb nail. Oh an our winters anything below 0c the surface basically gives up.
From memory you guys have tougher/better roads than we do though

Tyre pressure I'm with you on, I use 88 rear and 75 front. Guy I know races an showed me a handy chart to work it out plus I softened up the ride with latex tubes OK you have to pump them daily but so much more feel and latex deforms more readily than rubber tubes so your less prone to a punctures which is a plus.

We all have different points of view an experience etc like my local bike park the locals all have things like Magic Marys front an rear someone turns up when its dry on something like a Smart Sam, you just have to laugh an call an ambulance it flits from loam to super soft sand in the blink of an eye. Again, experience.

 

Sorry for not replying earlier, don't want you to think I was being ignorant. Thanks for those suggestions and looking at them now.

 

got the crank off and tightened it again and it helped atleast for now and to some clicking Maybe it isn't coming from between my ears after all.

Chances are if I'll be riding the next year with this bike I'll be swapping to 1x11 or 1x10 instead of the current 2x10, so couldn't be arsed to do major changed to the drive train as of now.

Either way, there's also some noise from the front. I think I'll pop the forks off, check and lube and tighten everything back together. All of my single crown forks have made some noise when really twisted around, but maybe a bit less Maybe. Just a wild guess, but could uneven tightening of the stem cause noise? Can't really think of much else that would move around in that area...

 

Hi all I like riding bicycles. I am new here. I wrote a long post in build log forum but the post disappears, nor can I reach the admin. It says "Invalid Redirect URL (https://forums.bit-tech.net/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=42)". I am testing here. Sorry for bothering.

 

Not sure to post here or in latest purchases...
I'm not really a keen cyclist, or expert on bikes
My current bike is allegedly a 'vintage classic' (alleged by the boys at the bike shop) 1980s Dawes Wildcat, which is heavy.



Picked up this Ideal Nova (?) at a garage sale this morning for £60. If nothing else, it' has a lovely light frame which makes it easier to use. I've got a 20 mile annual ride next Friday: Mudeford to Share road in Sandbanks along Bournemouth/Poole promenade.
Should make easier work of it

 

Looking aimlessly online, a few minutes ago, I came across a picture of a 1985 Overbury's Pathfinder. My first mountain bike was a 1984 model, bought new after test riding the framebuilder's own bike at the Bristol bike Show.

 

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That's true, I'll post a photo later when I grab it from my phone. The Wildcat will be up for sale soon...

 

New meter arrived, not too obvious either

 

Very nice. Enjoy!

 

How reliable is that very light chain? When I was doing a lot of cycling I never even considered a chain like that. I snapped chains, bottom bracket axles, pedal axles, chainring bolts and handlebars. I was a strong sprinter.

 

Ill try!

I used KMC superlights on all my bikes not actually managed to snap one yet my peak sprint power is a little over 1200W without wind resistance lots of people use them mainly because they wear better that ones on over 1500 miles an its just about worn to .75

 

I think your meter may be a tad optimistic. Robert Förstemann and a toaster:

 

Momentary vs sustained output.

Fabien Cancellara averaged 479watts at the Olympics last year (for an hour, a freaking hour!) but he can dump well over 2000watts through the cranks for a couple of seconds.

I can average 275 for an hour, just over 500 for a minute and about 1100 if I just stand up and smash the pedals until I keel over after 10 seconds, and keel over I do.

1200 is fast, but it's not that fast when most pros are north of 1500 in any discipline.

 

Exactly that, momentary isnt bad but ill be able to start working on my baseline. it will according to the manual but anything over 110W sustained ill be happy with.

 

New tires!