Discussion in 'General' started by RTT, 8 May 2008.
its related to female period ????
I ordered a couple of quick release axles and skewers from eBay ages ago (China) I only want to remove the front wheel....
They've arrived. Just one thing I forgot. My wheels use sealed bearings and these come with cone nuts for caged/loose ball. I'm guessing I remove all that and use my hardware yes? Unless my sealed axles are stepped etc.
The wheels are not branded so I'm guessing there's no such thing as a axle kit for it. I guess at worst I could get my buddy to machine a hollow axle.
Sealed bearings may mean the hubs don't have ball cups in them, thus requiring new hubs...
For that matter, what's holding the bearing units in...?
Have you seen my wheels? Lol good luck replacing the hubs they're cast ali
I've not taken it apart yet, but sealed bearings are usually always press fit. I may need a sleeve for the unsealed axle..
[QUOTE="Vault-Tec, post: 4733363, member: 794207"https://forums.bit-tech.net/index.php?threads/we-like-to-ride-bicycles.151192/page-290[/QUOTE]
Oh, f... un. If the bearings are press-fit, there still needs to be summat holding the axle into the hub, or it'd fall out whenever you took the wheel off.
Yes lock nuts.
It's a 10mm axle. Of course I'll have that hardware on the wheel now. The only thing I can thing that may be missing is the thicker part between the bearings on a "sealed" axle to prevent cross walk of the axle which would damage the bearings. That's not too much of an issue though as my buddy could make me a sleeve to stop that.
I think it's gonna be a suck it and see, so I'll get off the couch tomorrow and take it apart.
Might just need a 10mm q/r axle adapted/machined-to-fit... although adapting bolt on to q/r was problematic when I looked at it, last (20-25 yrs ago?)... think q/r axles are 'more than 10mm'.
Standard QRs are 9mm, are they not?
Being pedantic they're not quite 10mm, or 14mm or 20mm hollow race but they're metric and close enough.
That's what they're known as in general.
'Standard' in cycling?
On a road bike it's normaly 9mm for a front QR axle, 10mm for a rear axle.
On a mountain bike it could be anything. There's been front 9mm, 10mm, two kinds of 15mm, three of 20mm, two of 25mm and Brent Foes sold a 30mm axle fork/hub combo for a while because he's mental.
BMXs can be 10mm, 14mm and some are now 20mm bolt up.
Yeah, standards, way too many, 5, 9, 10, 12, 15, 20, 30 then you have varying lengths rears going up to anything like 165mm.
Only issue I can see is fitting a through axle you would need skewer thans narrower which may not sit properly in your dropouts. Also it will be a bit weaker.
Strength on this bike isn't so important. I don't take it down stairs etc I just sit on it and ride.
I had a look last night and the key is the original hardware. It's whatever the standard width is (110 front?) And I did order the right size so the key is if the thread pitch is the same. It "should" be standard 24 TPI IIRC and roughly 10mm.
The hub in the wheel is quite narrow and it has these anodised cap nut things that are the correct length in the dropouts (width I mean) so yeah, those will be the critical part but I can always have my mate machine me something out of steel. These are alu anodised.
Ok not got around to it (story of my life) but just took a wheel nut off the wheel and tried it on the new axle. It's the correct size and pitch.
So that's one hurdle navigated.
Foul mouthed out of breath person shows he has a lot to do.
Ain't he f***in' just...?
Did a stock check. I bought this last year (it's still in the box) but decided to give it to a buddy.
Last summer I stripped, restored and rebuilt a Terrible One Ruben.
Which ended up eating up the entire summer due to the paint process.
Still, it's a beautiful bike. Proud to have that sat next to my Standard (well, when they both go back together).
Time to move the bikes that are finished.
Leaving two that need to be put back together but are fully restored. Then onto the restoration projects. Now due to the T1 taking me so long I managed to procure another two projects, and all of the parts for them (the money bit, basically). I have a 1999 Specialized Fatboy Hemi MX and a 1999 S&M Dirt Bike NG. This is the Fatboy.
Which is monocoque. This is the S&M
I have some very, very rare parts for that including a Metal sprocket made by Jimmy Levan. The Specialized needs to be painted, but the decals (not the Hemi ones) need to remain. This is because new ones cost more than I paid for the frame itself. So I need to do some very detailed masking on that. I bought the paint for the Dirt Bike last year, it's beige. Which was one of the original colours (they never came in met blue and those are the wrong decals).
I also have the original "non PC" decals for the Fat Boy.
Which will go on the back in place of the Hemi ones. Which are too far gone to save. I have a full set of original S&M low rider decals.
And the original Pitch Fork decals too. All of that was purchased last year. I also did a ton of resto work on the Dirt Bike parts. Seat tube was refinished, and a Bone Deth seat added.
And I restored the Hoffman Jump bars, which had been cut really bad (one side was an inch longer than the other) and fitted some Bone Deth grips.
So it's literally just painting the frame and fork on that one.
As I sat up amongst the pile yesterday I felt normal for a while. Like none of this was happening and I was where I belonged.
God that felt good.
I have a track pump which I used for my son and I's bikes but since he got his new bike which has a presta valve compared to the schrader on my bike i can no longer pump up his tyres.
I have adaptors but nothing seems to work, can someone recommend me a suitable schrader to presta adaptor?
So I had my bike nicked from me a couple of weeks ago (guy bought it, then made a claim to pp and got his money back).
Just seen it on gumtree, with a couple of bits changed but I'm 99.9% it's my bike, trying to get his address, not sure what my next move is, going to ring the fraud people tomorrow as the online thing doesn't seem to have moved and he's wanting to sell the bike asap I think.
The cheap brass Presta to Schrader adapters off Ebay usually work just fine. Undo the Presta valve a couple of turns, thread the Schrader adapter over the top and put the pump on the adapter like it's a normal valve. If they aren't working I'm stumped.
I know i have one of those somewhere but where..god knows
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