Education We Like to Ride Bicycles

As you have the Scout, what BB do I need and what crank spec do you run?

I mean I could get away with the BB-MT501 as it’s on paper the same “spec” as the MT801 but if I got either of those which version of the M7100 cranks is it?

 

Erm.....

Edit: After looking, the cranks are just the standard 68/73 M7100 in a 170mm length. Thinking about it now, I believe I went with a 52mm chainline. I took the opportunity of buying new drivetrains for my Scout and current Trance build to give shorter cranks a turn. I've aways ran 175mm, I can't say I'm going to notice the difference.

BB is an older 68/73mm threaded MT800 that I had in my previous Trek Slash build with an 11speed M8000 XT drivetrain.

 

Well I went and got the cranks, the rest should be here soon.

IMG_2919 by andrew8200m posted 27 Jul 2024 at 17:40

I also put a set of stem spacers in by Hope because I’m Magpie and it was shiny!!

IMG_2918 by andrew8200m posted 27 Jul 2024 at 17:40

 

Today I decided I needed to fit a child seat to a bike, naturally it was decided that it was not under any circumstances going on my 4th child and I sure as hell wasn’t putting it on the 5th child when that is finally with us.

With this in mind the cooker has been modified one again. I’ve had to drop the thickness of the bar to a 31.8 so that I can fit the child handle bar and this means the old stem is back. I figured I’d rob the Deity grips off of it too and stick some “Funn” grips on that I found for a tenner.

Cooker transformation - Dad Machine.

IMG_2937 by andrew8200m posted 28 Jul 2024 at 16:26

And then we we have a few bits thrown on to the Nukeproof.. the stem needs shortening about 2mm, once I’ve done that the headset with compress and it’ll all feel as it should, nice and tight. I can then get the grips and the brakes on the bike at least.

Any recommendations on a dropper post? They seem to ship with a “Brand X - Ascend” in built bike form and they seem great value at around £100 inc lever. Once I have that and the seat post clamp purchased, all I need to do is wait for the drive train to turn up too and I can get it finished.

This thing looks very playful and rather slack in a mullet build!

IMG_2936 by andrew8200m posted 28 Jul 2024 at 16:26

It was 1am, the picture is as good as it’s going to get!

 

Well I could have gone much further but there are just too many planks (people) around. Getting past the pier was a nightmare.











The headset is very loose. Need to address that. It's nowhere near as fast as the Ti bike. However, it is way less tiring to ride and very comfortable. I will wait for a warm evening in the week when all the townies have fooked off.

Very happy though. I had been barely able to even walk this week due to my knees and back. Today though I felt a lot less in pain.

 

That bike looks majestic!!

I absolute love yellow when done right, the pedals, brakes and stem dressing really do make it pop.

 

Just fixed said headset. I’ve got the “kid with a new bike” feels so I’m currently telling myself not to take it back out and ride til I drop. Too old

 

I’d just like to go out but want the missus there for the first time with that seat, she’s being hard work.

Go back out, have 30 mins and call it a day. You’ll feel great!

 

It’s not the riding. It’s getting it back up all the stairs.

That’s the killer tbh.

 

Well I’ve just had a massage to release lactic acid build up so I feel reasonable for the end of the day! Still.. I might be able to take that bike out of the missus decides not to be a selfish so n so. Pigs might fly eh…

 

You should cross your rear brake and rear mech cables under your top tube so they are on opposite sides of the head tube. This way when they exit the top tube cable guide they will come off the frame then have a nicer arc around the head tube to the levers, not scratching your head tube inthe process.

 

Oh bloody heck I knew I had forgot something.

Those cranks I bought... I figured they were just Chinese art.



Well they sort of are.... LOL



https://ride5dev.com/collections/cranks

The fine Chinese art of ripping off everything on the planet

 

I was looking in to this, the twist under the frame would not me but so does abusing the headtube area scuffing it up.. I’ll probably end up doing it, I’m just wondering if I need shifter cable housing or if the shifter comes with it.. any ideas?

 

I don't like having the x under the top tube either, but i'd rather than than a scuffed up headtube. I usually do it between the middle and front guides as then it's already putting a twist in the hose / outer and directing it away from the bike.

If you've bought a new Shimano shifter it usually comes with inner and outer when you're spending Deore money upwards I believe. At least it always has for me, but I've never ran anything lower than XT (until I just put SLX on my Scout) because I'm a snob and I get trade prices.

 

So today I went and picked up a one-up dropper and a one-up lever to connect to the SRAM matchmaker on the brake lever mount.

As I was there I also picked up a seat post clamp from Burgtec however I do feel the hope one would probably have been a little better but it’s done now and I’m not complaining really.

The brakes are now mounted to the frame too, all I need now is the cassette to arrive and I can complete the bike by finalising that rear wheel and the drive train inc derailleur etc.

From bits knocking about the garage that I have re-used and parts purchased, I have built a bike that sits between the Elite (same drive train etc but better suspension, brakes, dropper) and the RS (slightly better drivetrain on RS but equal suspension, lesser brakes and lesser dropper post, alloy bar where as mine is carbon)..

All things considered, I’d say if one retails at £2500 and the other at £3k, I’d imagine this with the extras mine has and considering its with the worse drive train is probably on par. Not bad for a parts bin rummage and £480 spent on the frame and other bits it needed to get it built.

Proper chuffed!!

I’ll get a pic up once I’ve throne it together without drivetrain.

Could do with a chain guide/bash guard though as I’ve gone mullet… will have to see.

IMG_2982 by andrew8200m posted 29 Jul 2024 at 17:29

 

Let's hope they don't fail on you in the most critical moments, I'm sure that will never happen

 

What Hope brakes have you ran? Did you have issues?

 

My issues were from years and years ago before the QC really stepped up, enough for me to not buy again however I wouldn’t let that put anyone off, I’d argue they’re as reliable as Magura, Shimano, SRAM at similar price points and they look much cooler (bar MT7s, they’re the sexiest brakes on the planet, change my mind).

 

I can't say I've ever had an issue with Hopes. I've ran the original M4, tech M4 and tech 3s.

Not had an issue when I ran 2 pot deores, other than not enough power when we were coming down some of the Cheviots.

SRAM X9s on my Trek Slash constantly lost fluid.

Never ran Maguras, not a fan of their plastic body and "self tapping" clamp bolt. But if it works who am I to tell them they are wrong.

 

Well, all our bikes have just been donated to a local community project.







I was especially sad to part with the Boardman road bike, it was such a lovely ride, I must’ve put hundreds of miles on it. Every time I saw it in the shed I told myself what a shame it was to leave it there to rot, I should really get back on it… and I kept doing that for about 6 years or more…

Well, they’ve all gone now. There’s a local community project that takes in old or unwanted bikes, gets them back into shape (or strips them for parts where that’s not possible), and then donates them to people. None of them really need any major work to be “roadworthy” again; barring any punctures or chain swaps, it’s just going to be the usual maintenance stuff: cable tensions, gear indexing, etc.

I’d been meaning to give them away for a while but I was really reluctant to go down the Gumtree/FB Marketplace route, I’m much happier they’ve gone somewhere that I know will get use out of them.