Let me be the first to say: no. From the first disk-braking system (for a bike) right up to the most bleeding-edge technology out there now, pad retraction is handled almost exclusively by one thing: a spring. Try ripping the spring out of your master-cylinder and see how well they work! Rotational force won't do much, as the pads retract in entirely the wrong direction for the rotor to have much effect on their retraction, whereas if the opposite were true then you'd be constantly fighting rotational forces through your lever blade, making braking at high-speed a task only suited for the burliest of loggers! Here is a diagram I prepared earlier: Code: | ^ || ^ | | ^ || ^ | |<-- ^ || ^ -->| | ^ || ^ | | ^ || ^ | (pad) (rotor) (pad) Arrows denote direction of primary movement during pad retraction and brake rotor operation. See how they move in two different directions? If the rotor kept the pads away, one would expect pad retraction to be 45 degrees from the reference rotational direction. This would force them away from the braking surface with minimal drag, but would require a herculean effort to come to a stop due to the rotor forever fighting to throw the pads back into their bore. To the topic at hand: could be any number of things. Rotor/pad contamination, poor rotor quality, poor selection of pad compound to the conditions, improper break-in period/technique, too much fudge on the braking surface... really just about anything causes minor vibration in a high-friction environment, which leads to the audible feedback you find yourself bothered with now. If they were my brakes I'd first resurface the rotor (take about an 80 to 100grit piece of sand paper and sand the surface quite well without taking too much material off; spray the rotor down rather well with Brake and Parts cleaner/rubbing alcohol; burn off the residue with a blow-torch or lighter), check to see if the pads are contaminated (discolouration that doesn't go away after buffing down the surface layer of the pad) or if you have a leak of hydraulic fluid, then either resurface the pads (same as for the rotor, but be super gentle with the fire, as they'll sometimes go right up in flames) or replace them. If you've a leak, then rebuild your calliper (or get a shop to do it). Though as the brake at hand is a Shimano, you may be looking at just buying a new calliper. If all this doesn't make a difference, then I'd try a new rotor. Believe it or not but rotor design/material does make a difference in noise/heat. Grab yourself an Avid G3CS and a new set of pads, follow proper break-in procedure (Avid and Shimano have great write-ups on how to do this - google is your friend), and you'll be set.