Scratch Build – Complete ⭐ WING X99 - A CNC-milled Scratch Build! (Benchmarks,temps and wallpapers posted)

I'm not 100% about the pump, but you should be able to buff it. I DO know it's not plated brass or something similar. Someone would have complained or damaged one already if it was.

Awesome light plate. I wonder if you could change the pattern to get a fade effect. (Of course, the hard part is getting even light, so we will probably never see someone deliberately make 'hot spots'. )

Edit: D'oh! ninja'd

 

*cough* already ordered
Didn't fancy the hundred odd quid for the official one. The new version comes with a header for adding a reverse switch - which I want for power lazy tapping. Thanks for the heads-up though.

Would definitely be interested in any info you have on that for when I'm ready. Think I'll probably be after DRO first - I'm so gonna lose count of handle turns otherwise - let alone backlash compensation!

What do you mean "next"? I've already started itching for one! I think it started after the first time I read "You can easily make one of these for your mill. Just put the stock on your lathe..."!

 

I have a Siege SC3 lathe. Capable machine, but like all "small" lathes a bit prone to flexing. I made brass gibs for the carriage and cross slide and retightened them and that improved things considerably.

Basically you'll soon find that the main purpose of metalwork tools is to make more metalwork tools.

(I still have to fit the piston spring kit on my SX2 mill...)

 

Heh, I used my 3d printer to make a cnc router, then used them both to make a bigger cnc router!

 

You know the thread is popular when it turns into the chat room.

 

I WANT THIS MASCHINE !!!!!!!!!!!!! xD

 

Nice man! A lot of fun and work ahead of you!

Make machines to make bigger and better machines

Haha, I don't mind at all. Just the way I like it.

Did it with some autosol and it worked like a charm! Much better shine and it was a quick 5min per pump. Did not even have to use any sandpaper.

 

Doing the bottom compartment as far as I can right now.


This is the fan I had to do some modifications on for the water cooling to be able to fit without it being to tight.


Mounting fans and trying to figure out how to do all this the best way.


Decided to mount it as it is supposed to be so I can get a better idea.


I did not want to sleeve the fans. I did that the last time and it was bothersome and did not really add to the aesthetics. And here they will not ever show. Non sleeved cables can look much better than sleeved in some cases and also have much smaller footprint.





Mounted the PSU.


Decided to keep the full lengths of the fans and do a neat splitter with some clean cable routing. Making it easy to replace a fan IF there is a malfunction or anything like that.


Designed a simple fan splitter on a board.


Some soldering later


Hot glue is the solution to a lot of things


Isolated and protected.


Just some cleaning up with an exacto knife and we are good to go.


Put them on the fan with some hot glue. Really sticks well and you should still be able to pry it away if needed.





Did the cables in this neat row. I really like the cables that comes with these fans. Flat wire is really good when it comes to management.








Really pleased with how it turned out. Really neat, took some time though


Drain port that is easily accessible in the front. Rotating fittings make it easy to point downwards or outwards and drain fluids when needed. Also put a inline temp sensor to monitor the water temperature.


Nice and neat, just the way I like it!


Mounted the leds! The red wire is gone from the leds, even if it does not show it bothered me later so I switched that one to a black also.


Mounted the magnetic fan filters from demcifilter. They are really neat and you can order them to custom sizes and shapes.





Really easy to remove and clean.


Now it is time to progress to the next compartment before I can finish up the bottom.


Mounted the motherboard plate and IO parts.


Put in the pump covers and the RGB leds that will light the acrylic line that goes around the pump back.


Did not plan on this RGB part. But when the foot looked that nice I really wanted to expand on that. Tested with this and it looked amazing. I like the RGB-thing going on right now. But the most important thing for me is that it is balanced. And that you can turn it off when ever you want to. That is really important.


The translucent plexiglas is mounted and I have removed the protective film. It looks really clean and nice in my opinion and I am glad I went with this type of design instead of a regular plain mid section in aluminium.


Played around and mounted "tree" to see how it will look and I am really really please with how balanced this is (for me at least). BUT, I am getting myself ahead quite a bit. Next up is no small task, sleeving...

 

Love the way you've 'floated' the pumps up like that.

How come you have the PSU so that its taking in hot air that's already been through the rad?
Would it not bet better to flip it around so it can get clean air from outside the case and just vent it out the back of the PSU?

 

Totally stunning craftsmanship dude,subbed to this

 

I have found that this works very well. The air is not that "hot" and I think that the other way around will just be the PSU sucking in the "hot" air that have just passed through that direction. I used this direction on the Model 01 build and the PSU fan rarely spins up. So I think it will be okay

 

The temperature difference between air entering a radiator and leaving it is only 1-2°C tops. It's not as much as people think. So the PSU will be fine.

 

Love the fan wiring, so clean.

Minor detail, but I find the bulk of the nylon ties detracts from the clean look. Not sure if you could replace them with the head of the tie, tuck down and away, or use an alternative method to secure the wires, maybe velcro strips or string. That said still amazing work.

 

Exactly. I think it is a common misconception that the delta air is really "hot". With the exhaust air going through the PSU it actually cools it and the PSU fan then don't have to start

I don't know. I think neatly put and correctly cut nylon ties is beautiful in my eyes. But then again I worked as an electrician for a while. Nylon ties are really practical, noting else comes close when it comes to aesthetics, footprint and function. Just cut them of and put a new one in. Takes a few seconds and they have a much smaller footprint than lets say Velcro.

As long as you cut it with straight jaws very close so you don't get that really sharp and dangerous "knife" part sticking out.

Also, these can not be seen at ALL, so there could be a rats nest of wires and no one would know. Then in my view, the most important thing is function

 

Next update will be posted later today.

I also have something satisfying that I forgot to post last time


I had been waiting a long time for that!

 

Not strictly true,the delta between in/out is dependent on the heatload.
You can easily go past 1-2c...it wont be higher than the water temp for sure but you can get mighty close....

 

There are of course a lot of factors that matters, such as fan speeds, FPI, thickness of the radiator, how hot your water gets during operation. Most have over sized systems with lots and lots of radiators.

My delta air in and out on my last build was something around 3-10 deg depending on load (measured with those small crappy sensors) but the air itself does not feel that hot. Either way, the PSU is still very much fine with this solution

 

About time to mount some components. These have been sitting on my shelf long enough...


Like a glove! Always a bit nervous when you make scratch builds and make custom IO that it will not fit. But it was really nice and snug!






GPUs and SSDs mounted!


Here is a neat tool I designed. The thing I hate the most about sleeving is stretching the sleeve so that you get a really tight fit around the cable. That hurts my hands bad after a while, and it is not like the other burning and bending etc does not hurt. And at the same time you need to pinch the cable so it does not go back. This is my first rev of a tool to aid me in this. And I must say it works quite nicely.


Here you can see the sleeve pulled through the rolls causing it to tighten around the cable. And when you stop pulling the sleeve stay in place and does not go back. And a stretched sleeve looks much much better than a non stretched sleeve.


This is such a mess. I don't like to sleeve, I think it is tedious and I get nervous that I have done something wrong all the time and checks everything like 5 times over and over...


Okay, a few days later I am done with 90% of the cables. My fingers hurt, I have burned myself on the arm and hand (very small table in the apartment) since I put down my arm and hand on the very hot gas touch 2 times... My fault but lets blame the very limited space


This sleeve gets very stiff when streched and it is a pain to bend, but on the other hand it looks amazing and it is really tight, much tighter than the MDPC sleeve that is very good quality.


Okay now, how the hell do I fit this into here. I originally planed this with 18 AWG wire and much softer sleeve. Now with this much tighter sleeve and 16 AWG wire the cables do not like to stay in place...


I really like how the GPU comb turned out. I wanted to make something that goes with the same theme and lines as the build. Turned out better than I thought it would.


Decided to make the pump connect inside the pump house.


Shortened the original cables of the D5 pumps


I ended up using hot glue to be able to get the cables to stay in place. Was impossible otherwise. Either way, I only used hot glue on places where you cant see it. So no hot glue what so ever will ever be visible. I originally was against using any kind of glue "since then I cant remove the cables" then I remembered that I have threaded each individual cable through holes so that is pretty much a permanent installation... So then I was fine with it. If you do something like this though I recommend that you are really careful to not get any glue where you don't want it.


A small amount of hot glue to fix the bottom layer of the cables did the trick. Really neat.


Here you can see the whole tree.


Now I just need these cables to conform to MY reality, GET IN LINE!!!


That is more like it! Will leave it like this for a day or two and they will stay more or less in place when I remove the scrap acrylic pieces.


Looks really neat but what a pain to do. Don't think I would have done them visable if I knew how much time I would have to spend on them. I would at least have done some changes in the design if I knew I was going to use 16AWG and this thicker sleeve. This could have been much easier than it was.




Time for a very big moment. Plugged in the cable and put on the switch on the PSU. Time to boot for the first time since removing every single cable and every connector and putting them back in again. THe amount of money that rides on that all the cables are correctly connected is HUGE.


Here we go...


The sweet, sweet boot screen! What a HUGE relief, it posted just fine into bios and all GPUs etc are detected. Had to turn it off after about a minute though since I have no cooling on yet. But this is such a relief.


Quickly fixed up the cables on the front and straightened them up a bit (they need a bit more work to be perfect but I will do that later)










The foot is not mounted back again since I might need to screw in the fill ports from underneath when I connect the custom blocks.




Another quick boot with the lights connected also.




Starting to look a lot like the renders! I am really excited now! Now I just need to polish the acrylic parts, make orings, leak test the blocks and test the pump tops. And If all that works I am basically 99% done with the case. Just some minor things like the power on button that needs to be fixed!

A Video of how the sleeving tool works and how I do my sleeving:

 

Now THAT's looking neat. My wife would very much approve!

Saying how much is riding on the cables being correct for the first boot and then showing us a picture of a blank screen was not kind!

 

Awesome. Love the pron music