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Scratch Build – Complete ⭐ WING X99 - A CNC-milled Scratch Build! (Benchmarks,temps and wallpapers posted)

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Andreas | Brodholm, 19 Aug 2016.

  1. Andreas | Brodholm

    Andreas | Brodholm Member

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    I talked with EK before doing the build and they think that it will be okay. I will have Corsair ML fans in push & pull at 2000RPM max. Going from 600 to 2000 in rpm does quite a bit.
     
  2. CroyAlore

    CroyAlore Member

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    Amazing work man, I cant wait to see the next update.

    I was wondering how you did the bend for the case? I saw that you made your own device for it, but what powered the device?
     
  3. Andreas | Brodholm

    Andreas | Brodholm Member

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    Just by hand. I was too light weight (~85kg) so basically needed 2 people to drag down on the pipe. Should probably have had an even longer moment arm for the bender in hindsight. :thumb:
     
  4. Andreas | Brodholm

    Andreas | Brodholm Member

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    Also, time for a new update, this time it is a big one! :D :dremel: :dremel: :dremel:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]This is the base for the GPU-connector block.
    [​IMG]These are very small o-ring slots for the GPU-blocks
    [​IMG]Had to use a 1mm end mill for these.
    [​IMG]Doing the bigger O-ring slots for the connector plate. I am using 2mm O-ring string and I am making 2.5 mm wide and 1,35 mm deep slots for them.
    [​IMG]Base part completed. Water channel slots are 13mm wide and 5mm deep. Equaling about the same area as a 10mm ID hard tubing pipe.
    [​IMG]Do you see the suffering I put myself trough to document this! This is all over the workshop! And these gets a static charge and stick to everything! I could be using the dust shoe but then the video and picture production would suffer!
    [​IMG]This sticks to everything...
    [​IMG]Yeah, everywhere...
    [​IMG]This is the Top part of the big connector plate.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]Profile all cut.
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    [​IMG]Countersinking!
    [​IMG]All done, except for some engraving.
    [​IMG]Did a test of the engraving and also the sphere for the pump tops.
    [​IMG]Turned out nicely so I proceeded to the real pieces.
    [​IMG]First up, the engraving
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]Doing this inverted from the back side produces this very neat effect. Looks super good in my opinion.
    [​IMG]Now it is time for the base of the big connector plate.
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    [​IMG]Res being milled, ohhhh yes!
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    [​IMG]Really pleased with the quality of the cuts. Time to flip it around and do scary stuff to it!
    [​IMG]Don't want to ruin this now. So much work put into this and I was very nervous for the pump spheres.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]Turned out great! Could not hope for better. Now I just have to tap A LOT of M4 and 1/4" holes.
    [​IMG]daaaaaang, these are sexy!
    [​IMG]Basically ALL parts that need to be milled are done now. I just hope I did not forget something or screw things up :)
     
  5. CroyAlore

    CroyAlore Member

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    Looks amazing, very good job, how long does it take to cut out one of those pieces?

    I also cant wait to see what the case looks like after anodizing. How long do you think it will take for that?
     
  6. Andreas | Brodholm

    Andreas | Brodholm Member

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    I also have a video update this time! In time for the update also. Amazingly on time this time around :D

    Video update #6


    ____________


    On a side note, does anyone know why embedded does not work here? Or am I doing something wrong? Just says "error". Here you can see what it does:
     
    Last edited: 24 Feb 2017
  7. Andreas | Brodholm

    Andreas | Brodholm Member

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    I would say about 30 minutes to about 2 hours each depending on the size and complexity. I did all of these pieces in 2 days. Working about 12h each day. A lot of switching sides, doing different clamp downs, fixing the programming etc :thumb:
     
  8. Bennibo

    Bennibo Member

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    Awesome!
    Everytime i see your great work, i want a CNC more and more... ;)
     
  9. Cheapskate

    Cheapskate Insane? or just stupid?

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    You just need the random code after the= in the link.
    Suuuuuper sweet, BTW.
    It's great, isn't it.:D Now do acetal with a 1/2" bit, with .5 mm depth passes. :lol: I'm betting you'd need to vac the ceiling too.
     
    Last edited: 24 Feb 2017
  10. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    Spray plastic swarf with a plant sprayer set to fine mist, containing water with some detergent solution. Causes it to lose its static charge and it clumps together nicely when you sweep it up. :thumb:
     
  11. Andreas | Brodholm

    Andreas | Brodholm Member

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    They are quite useful :thumb:

    Thx for the youtube fix! Getting all the chips is always fun...

    Thanks for the tip. Will try that next time. Although when running normally I would just use the dust shoe and the amount that comes out then is significantly less. This time I used compressed air and just pushed everything into a wall and then vacuumed it up. You get most of it, while the rest is set free to roam the workshop for eternity :D
     
  12. babydragon_64

    babydragon_64 New Member

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    It's incredible all the machining that's gone into this. Really looking forward to seeing the finished computer!
     
  13. arg-ist

    arg-ist Member

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    [​IMG]

    You deserved Andreas | Brodholm

    It was the bad luck to be in the same group with you.

    Congratulations. arg-ist
     
  14. FatalSyntaxError

    FatalSyntaxError Member

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    Might impressive work! Really enjoying following along with this mod. The engineering work that's gone in to this!

    Any chance you might publish the plans for your CNC machine anytime? Considering saving up for one and your's is the most capable and professional looking DIY CNC I've seen to date. Its a work of art to itself!

    Anyway, thanks for the quick reply to my message on Facebook (yeah that's me!). Subbed and early awaiting more!
     
    Last edited: 28 Mar 2017
  15. Andreas | Brodholm

    Andreas | Brodholm Member

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    You and me both :D

    Thanks! Great projects all around in my opinion!

    Ohh! Hi :)

    I always try and answer when I have time!

    I will probably not publish plans. There have been a lot of changes and the drawings are not complete among other things. But you can gain basically all the info needed to design your own from my CNC build log if you are interested: http://imgur.com/a/yP6Wp
     
  16. Andreas | Brodholm

    Andreas | Brodholm Member

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    [​IMG]
    Time to put everything back together and see if it fits again!

    [​IMG]
    All the parts from the anodization. Not cleaned 100% yet but it looks very good and even!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    I thought that I would start at the bottom. Fastening the rubber. Ended up using contact glue. Tried a lot of glues and this was the one the came out on top.

    [​IMG]
    Lets start by roughing up one side of the neoprene rubber.

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    This is how the side looks before sand paper

    [​IMG]
    And after

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    Same thing here, this is a very smooth surface and it is hard for the glue to stick to it.

    [​IMG]
    After a few minutes of sanding. This is kinda hard to sand since sand paper is made from aluminium oxide and when you are sanding anodized aluminium you are sanding something that is about as hard as the sand paper basically. But you can quite easily scratch it.

    [​IMG]
    Contact glue on both surfaces. Wait until you can touch it with your hands and its "dry". Usually takes about 5-10 mins depending on layer thickness.

    [​IMG]
    Make sure you position it right the first time, there is no taking it of when you put it down. Then it is stuck there good and you will have a HUGE mess if you try and remove it.

    [​IMG]
    Done! Turned out great. Really nice to have a solid base for the case that will reduce noise and make it stay in place much better.

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    After that it was time to glue the neodymium magnets. I used loctite 638 for this and when this have dried it is in there really good.

    [​IMG]
    Here you can see two magnets in place for the button assembly. I did all the rest of the magnets the same way. No more pictures of that though. This glue is really nasty smelling and not nice for your skin, so I used gloves and did not want to get any on the camera sooooo.... You get the procedure :)

    [​IMG]
    Time to try to mount some acrylic case pieces. This is the mid section of the "light box". A 10mm thick acrylic piece with carved lines.

    [​IMG]
    Here you can see the patterns. Just lightly scratched with a V-bit in the CNC.

    [​IMG]
    This pattern "catches" the light that you put in from the sides. And Illuminates more even on the surface.

    [​IMG]
    You want a reflector to enhance the light. This is the base.

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    Adhesive chrome/silver tape stuff I got from a hobby store.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Cut it out with a exacto knife.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    There we go! Just need to test it with some leds!

    [​IMG]
    Put on the front and I am really pleased so far!

    [​IMG]
    Getting really excited!

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    Put on the translucent white plexi

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    Here it is with the leds! The protective film is still on but you get the idea, a clean even white surface that illuminates the inside of the case.

    [​IMG]
    Okay this got me really excited. DAMN worked out even better than I thought. Just a hasty mount and tried it out. Have not even polished the acrylic yet. Just powering each node of the led strip here with a 12v input. So I can only do R, G and B separate. But still gives you an idea of how it will look!

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    That is all for now, next up will be the bottom compartment and cable management for fans and leds.
     
  17. Cenedd

    Cenedd New Member

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    I wish to complain about the quality of the work in this project....it's too good and making (some of) the rest of us look bad!
    My wife also wishes to complain since reading your project has given me that final push to get milling. I've not gone for anything so large as yours and it isn't CNC, just manual but it's a start and I'm sure the habit will only get worse from here on in! I went for a Sieg SX2 (space and cash being the limiting factors) and I hope to retro-fit DROs to it. Have even been on an introductory course so I've got half a clue what I'm doing to start with!
    Case is looking great though. Anodising looks.very nice and the lighting looks like it's going work really well.
     
  18. Andreas | Brodholm

    Andreas | Brodholm Member

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    Haha! I like it! My girlfriend also have to endure my CNC endeavors. Retrofitting can be a really nice option to building new :thumb: Taking classes is also the way to go, I did it all with internet and reading, while that works it is much slower and it is much harder to get answers to quick questions you might have.

    Btw have anyone tried to polish/buff the inner housing of D5 pumps. It is a bit dull and I would like it shiny. From what I can tell it is just plain stainless steel? So I should just be able to buff it with a cloth and some autosol?

    This is the part of the pump I would like to polish:
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    I have a Siege SX2. It's a fairly lightweight machine but quite capable and very moddable to get the most out of it. You can get a cheap RPM kit from the internet and you can easily add your own reversing switch. And when you're ready to upgrade you can convert it to a CNC.

    It's a gateway drug to metalworking however. :p You'll want a lathe next.

    Should be OK. You can lift out the impeller:

    [​IMG]

    Wouldn't polish the inside of the bowl though.
     
  20. Andreas | Brodholm

    Andreas | Brodholm Member

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    Thanks for confirming! My thought was to only polish the bit that shows with a microfibre cloth and some autosol polish. Then clean everything out with soap and make sure the ceramic ball bearing is nice and clean and free from any abrasive particles that could have gotten there. Yep, its is very satisfying to play with the impeller to take it on and of. Magnets are fuuuuuun :lol:
     

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