ZapWizard's LAN PC -Custom Ammo PC -Completed Jan 18 '04

well, i assume that instead of plugging a jack into the sockets on the motherboard, he will instead take all the individual wires of the jack and solder them straight onto the motherboard - all you have to do is find out what is what!

 

Look at my Media PC thread, I internalized a lot of jacks on different devices.
Here is the quick version:
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34385

 

Here is a new photo.
I removed the sticker on the fan, and also put in some molding around the opening.

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I need a new sticker for the front of the case.
Rather then just putting a typical decal, I wanted something a little more authentic.

So, I found this:


It is an actual template for shipping radioactive materials.
"Radioactive III" is the highest level radiation rating.
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So I opened up trueSpace and made my own version.
the 10.8 is just a random number, and the symbol below it is the logo for Halflife (as this PC will be used for mainly Halflife2)

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Next a photochop- showing what the case may look like when lit and with the logo.

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This is a real photo with a basic printed sticker. (Plain paper)
The final sticker will probably be printed onto photo-paper, then laminated and a stick-on adhesive on the back.
Then roughed up a little bit to match the case.

 

when are you going to post your sticker, im sure the rest of bit would like to see it also....

are you still going to have the normal pc ports on the back, or has that idea been killed? Also, i think that turning the front connectors back into standard, and them plugging them in is kinda pointless. Costs more, and your still soldering the same ammount, so do it the right the first time.

edit: you beat me... again...

 

Beat ya on the sticker....

I am not sure on the ports till I get the new motherboard.

/edit I added some higher res images for those who want a large image:

http://www.zapwizard.com/lanpc/Sticker/Sticker1600.jpg (185KB)
http://www.zapwizard.com/lanpc/Sticker/Sticker1600-flat.jpg (100KB)

 

Just something I noticed...

You spelled "energized" wrong. Other than that, I think you are putting the modding community to shame. Nice work.

 

Energised is correct, as is printed on the sticker.

Are there any holes in the bottom? It seems you have one fan and only a tiny outlet/inlet on the front that is going to restrict air flow, and not cause airflow towards the rear of the case.

 

Try using rechargable batteries(NiCd or NiMH), and have the batteries charge from the 12v(or 5vsb, if the battery pack voltage is low enough to do so).

 

Doh... well the spelling is fixed now

/EDIT

I thought about this, but I simply don't want to mess with the timing of the charge.
If I can find a small (lightish) lead acid I will use that.
As they can be trickle charged constantly without problems.


/EDIT EDIT

Hmm, are there two correct spellings?
I think the warning sign I saw it on did have "Energised"
but I found this one:
http://www.zapwizard.com/lanpc/Sticker/warning.gif

As far as the airflow, once I start building you will see it takes a loop around the whole case.

 

I dunno. I just typed it in word because I thought it looked funny. I am going to dig up my dictionary now...

edit -

My little american dictionary only has the "z" spelling listed.

 

that is definitly the best lan box I've saw

I imagine people playing CS in a lan... and all at once they see someone enter with an ammo case, putting it on a table, opening it... and then people wondering what's going on half afraid!!! even better, at a big lan, the guys at the doors, seeing someone aproaching with an ammo case, calling for backup!

that would be too funny

I sure can't wait to see the case "operational"

 

The tiny NiCd clock batteries on old motherboards(before really huge capacitors(10F(yes, ten Farads), 2.5v) got into use) just charge with a resistor to limit the current, and a diode to keep the charge from leaking back into the 5v circuits when the machine is off.

 

Everyone shrink wraps his solder jobs . Every does, right ?

@ ZapWizard: Omg, this must be one of the best mods I've ever seen .

 

I spend about four hours soldering and designing the electronics layout.

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Here is the keyswitch, and fan control.
The Fan control is following Cpemma's Diode bus guide.
http://www.cpemma.co.uk/sdiodes.html

I added a capacitor to each LED, as they flicker when the switch is turned.

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The keyswitch activiates this DPDT Relay.
The keyswitch gives me a sort of "keyguard" mode for the PC
When locked the fan's run at full speed, regardless of controller setting.
The USB devices are turned off, ensuring that no one can use my keyboard and mouse.
And the PWR, RESET, and EJECT buttons are totaly disabled.

Here you can also see the fan connections and floppy style power connector

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Here you can see the power going to the USB Devices, and the power for the keyboard back-light

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Here you can see the power for the VFD (And a fuse I had to solder in)
You can also see the three front panel switches.
Their connection to Ground is severed when the PC is locked.

Later: Animated Gif's and images showing the fan control

 

Bloody hell ! ! ! !

I wish i knew how to do things like that. I did a C&G once but no where as advanched as that. Thinking about doing another course this year. Seeing some of you guys and some of the things you do. Really does inspire me....

Keep it up Zapwizard.......It

 

Zap must use his 'skillz' to transport himself into the future aswell?



Only by one day though.

 

So many wires... that's just crazy, love the lock feature such a good idea!

 

Since you're in the US, see if there is a Big Lots near you. I just picked up a rechargable air-compressor that has a 12v lead-acid battery for 20 bucks. Maybe you could hack that open and grab the battery out of it?

 

Getting a 12-volt lead acid battery is no problem.
Getting one that is light and small is the problem.
I will go visit "batteriesplus" an all-battery store here.

 

More eye candy:



Here is a animated GIF of the fan control.
Note how the volt meter reads the acutal voltage to the fan.
(Between 7 and 12 volts)