Wiring, Watercooling Loop, Leaktesting with Air Pressure Wiring I have done a lot of work on the wiring to get it as neat and tidied up as possible. The answer to this was to run all or the wiring through the floor of the case and under it in the space beneath. I got well acquainted with the continuity setting on my multimeter making the PCI-E cables. I just ran the wires where I wanted and used the continuity setting to make sure which wire was which on each end. I used the PCI-E cable that came with the PSU to make sure I got the connections in the correct places on each end. I have got to get a good pair of crimpers as putting on the PCI-E pins was a pain. Pumps Rheostat I put the pumps on a 25w rheostat I already had so that I can turn the voltage down a bit on them to quiet them down. I made a little box out of 1/8" smoked acrylic, and mounted it to 2 pci bracket screws. It was easier to place it here near the PSU than near the pumps. I just had to loop the ground wire on the line feeding the pumps to the rheostat. It works like a charm. Pumps and Tubing in Place Here are a few interior shots of the pumps and tubing before installing the hard drives mount box so you can get a sense of how the tubing is running. I changed my previous drain idea and was able to go with my original idea after getting the wiring all hidden. A 1/4" line branches off from the line going from the bottom pump to the bottom rad barb and goes through the floor of the case. It makes draining very easy as I just have to hang the front end of the case off and pull the plug in order to drain. Leaktesting with Air Pressure I became convinced and am still so that leaktesting with air pressure is a much better way to leaktest than the water fill and pray method. I use a simple $13 vacuum gauge that I got a Harbor Freight tools for this as it has a large gauge area for 0-10psi. I have a small air compressor, but a simple bicycle pump could be used to do the same thing. I attach the line from the compressor hose blow handle going through the vacuum gauge to the drain. I then pump it up to about 9psi which is easily 2-3 times the pressure in the coolant loop, clamp off the pump line, and give it some time. The smallest leak will easily show up on the dial and its usually very easy to hear the hiss of a leak. Here is a pic of the dial when I initially pumped it up. Here is the same dial 3 1/2 hours later. It didn't budge one itty bit. As I mentioned, I am convinced this is the far better way to leaktest. 1. If there should be a leak, which has happened to me before, there is no clean up or getting anything wet. You just fix the problem. No draining, drying, etc- too easy. 2. Leaktesting with water in a system which is at room temp doesn't have the same pressure as a loop that is warmed up. I can pump the loop up to 9-10psi thereby introducing 2-3 times the pressure the loop will experience when running. 3. It can be easy to miss a small seeping leak as can happen easily at a barb or such with water, while with air, the tiniest little leak will show up on the gauge. You know 100% if you have a leak or not. A very small seeping leak however can be a bit hard to pinpoint with air, but usually you can hear the hiss from the air escaping. At least there is no guesswork, paper towels, etc. 4. Its not expensive to leaktest. A $13 gauge, a bit of hose, a fitting or two, and a pump are all that is needed. Of course I use a compressor since I already have one, but a bicycle pump, a simple Schrader valve, or ball pump fitting can be used to do this. A <$10 trip the hardware store can net you whatever fittings you may need. We'll spend $1000+ on watercooling and computer parts, but rely on the fill and pray method to leaktest, or not leaktest at all. It just doesn't make sense to me. The system is put together and up and running. I've got a few minor things to do. I've got a bit of lighting to add to the front dial, and I've got the attach the knobs. Hopefully this weekend I'll get these items done, clean up my shop, and see if I can setup to try to take some decent pics with my mediocre camera. I got cheap off of Ebay a 10'x10' white muslin backdrop. I also got PVC and fabric to make stand up diffusers to use with my halogen lights. Hopefully this will net a better photo shoot than on my last case. I had a horrible time shooting it. One of these days I need to invest in a real camera. A funny note on this case. The deal my wife made with me when I started making my own cases was that they had to fit inside of the computer compartment area of our oak rolltop computer desk. When my wife got a look at this case with it all put together, she suggested rearranging things in our desk area so that the computer can be put outside of the desk and be easily seen.