Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by Zeuligan, 8 May 2017.
Nice I remember doing a whole TJ07 in cream leather for some guy in dubai.... not an easy task.
Sounds like a challenging task. Had most problems not gluing the leather, but fitting it back. Easy to scratch and pinch the edges. Got a few "scars" I will need to fix.
You got any pictures of your cream leather build?
Only these ones before final assembly, he was rather private about his project
Looks really good. Love the edges. Hard to trim leather that way
A steamer is your friend with leather/fabric glue. first though center glue on panel down first by masking edges ect so only centre is glued. Then use hand held steamer on the rest of leather until it feels supple then stretch round edges carefully and hold in place for a few minutes. When it dries it will hold the shape you stretched to and be easier to glue down
OH, that is a PRO tip. Thank you so much. Will try to do something like this next time I work with leather (cause it will be a next time). I used like 6 large tubes of locktite supeglue
To ensure a clean look and lines that keep the eye occupied with details of my choosing. I decided to create a small fan bracket in carbon fibre for the top part of the amazing be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 case.
I wanted to hide the edge of the fans. Even if I love be quiets! fans, the side of any fan is very busy and I felt a carbon fibre fan bracket would help keep it clean and exclusive. Also with the carbon fibre look of the be quiet! fan wings it should make for a perfect match.
First I got some angled aluminium in the right dimension. Filed down 1,3mm to ensure a perfect match in height after adding the carbon fibre vinyl from 3M.
To ensure correct measurements I made a quick mockup of the fan bracket in Fusion360. Made measurements and working much quicker
Added some mounting brackets to combine mounting of the bracket with the top bracket of the case and fans. Primed and painted the entire bracket black before wrapping the front in 3M di-noc carbon fibre vinyl.
Many small angles and extrusions in the top part of the cabinet. So took some measurements and filling to make it fit, but after about 1h of work, it was all done and fitted perfectly.
It's a really big day for me, as I been approached, and landed my first ever sponsor!
It feels extra special as I had already picked so many for their products by my self, when planning the project. After their trust and generosity, I'm switching PSU to be quiet! Dark Power Pro 11 and will exclusively use be quiet! Silent Wing 3 PWM fans.
Feels unreal and very exciting all at the same time. I'm ecstatic and humble and will move into highest gear to finish this, my first modding project, project Zeuligan. Now with the support of my sponsor be quiet!
To match the rest of the inside of the case I decided I wanted to cover part of the front fans and the area around it. It's a sin to cover the beautiful be quiet! Silent Wings 3 fans them self, so knew it had to be semi transparent and only from the inside.
After playing with some ideas on paper I knew what I wanted to create. A similar solution as the inside case wall I previously created in carbon fiber with a depth and layer in white carbon.
Got my new Dremel 4000 ready to help me do this mod. Would be first mod on this case that isn't 100% done by hand in that case
First I had to put the custom case parts back together
This is the where I will be creating my inside front fan shroud. My thought was to go from the custom floor all the way to the top and into the side to my previous custom inside wall.
First, as I always do, I created a prototype in cardboard to check my idea, design flaws and find room for improvements. Felt like this idea would be awesome.
Took out my acrylic 5mm and went to work. I have ordred a Dremel Moto-Saw, but it's delayed, so cut a demo piece up by hand saw. Just as previous mods
I bought a new 130 mm drill saw and it was just perfect. The beautiful 140mm Silent Wing 3 fans measure 135mm from inside to inside on the back. Left a few overlapping mm to my advantage. After a final test it was time to do the real deal.
Cut a 150mm wide and 360mm long piece and measured and market center line and where to drill the holes.
The size of that 130mm drill saw is just huge, but with some slow drilling the acrylic hardly melted and it was easy to cut my holes without any incidents.
Not bad, not bad at all. Perfectly centered and in the right place.
When I bought the drill saw I also picked up some diamond shaped aluminum mesh. It will look awesome together with my carbon fiber. Took measurements and cut a large rectangle in 145x355mm.
After cutting a 22mm wide and 360mm long acrylic side I "glued" them together with some awesome Acrifix 116. Invisible and strong bonding - yes please.
I just had to use my new tool, so sanded down any residue from my bonding (it flows very richly) and to ensure a smooth edge. When wrapping in carbon, I always sand down the corner edge into a soft round edge. This to ensure a nice smooth transition in the carbon vinyl and take away any risk of cutting the vinyl when it's heated and fragile.
I was very happy with the outcome. First time I used Acrifix 116, but will never use anything else for my acrylic bonding. So much stronger and better then superglue that I previously used.
A quick test fit with the mesh loose behind the fan shroud frame. Getting more and more excited the longer I work on this mod.
As the backside of the shroud will be slightly visible from the front, when the fans isn't spinning, I painted the whole backside black and painted the mesh black on both sides. One step closer to finish.
Wrapped the front on carbon fiber vinyl from 3M di-noc. Starting to get the hang of this now. Looks stunning if I can say so my self. Will make the amazing be quiet! Silent Wings 3 look even more beautiful and match their carbon looking wings.
I glued on the mesh with superglue and put pressure on it while setting. Finished of with some random dots of super glue in between the mesh.
VERY happy with the outcome. Even better then I imagine when I first thought of this mod. One last thing to fix. The inside white carbon edge. Just as on my inside wall. To create depth and contrast.
First I cut and glued (Acrifix 116) the parts together.
Then I wrapped it in white carbon fiber from 3M di-noc. Hard to get such a small piece (12mm height) perfect without any edges and complete coverage on all edges. Think I did alright.
The finished result
I had planned all along to learn the skill of sleeving my own cables. Feels like the thing you should know as a serious modder. At least that is how I feel about it. The color scheme is fairly simple for this build and decided to go full pro. MDPC-X sleeves in all shades of grey combined with Black, Shade-19, Carbon-BTI and the brand new White Carbon fiber.
First of all I had to stock up on all tools, wires, crimps and connectors needed. Always more expensive and more of an adventure the first time...
Such amazing tools with the outcome of great result. I have studied a lot of YouTube vids about sleeving and read many guides. They all talk about the importance and difficulty of crimping and pre-crimping. I didn't have any problems with MDPC-Xs own amazing crimping tool.
I did some measuring inside the be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 case and came up with 50cm as the perfect length. I then cut 22 times 50cm lengths from the 18AWG black wire. Finally cut 2 times 50cm length from the 18AWG white wire.
I bought a wire stripping tool at my local hardware store, but wasn't happy with length of the smallest strip. Modded the tool by supergluing a piece of 5mm acrylic to it and then filed it down to the correct size and shape. Worked perfectly after just one adjustment. Now it striped perfect amount of shield just to end at the very tip of the inner crimp of the ATX pin.
It's worth mentioning again. The MDPC-X crimping tool CTX3 made this so simple. The small inside edge just makes it dummy proof.
Three distinct clicks later and the ATX pin is pre-crimped.
I had no doubt that I wanted to go for the heat shrink less method. Sleeves as beautiful as MDPC-X needs the best.
Last, but not least, I had the actual sleeve. Beautiful craftmanship from MDPC-X. It just screams quality. I love the fact that they have so many colors to choose from and with 7 different shades of grey, I was more than happy to start sleeving for real.
I went for Alphacool's aluminum cable combs. Very exclusive look and feel, but I have to admit that the jury is still out for the verdict. I'm trying to decide what I feel about the cap between every second cable.
Some progress. I admit it took me a few tries to get the right amount of heat for sealing the sleeve. Need much more time/heat on the heat shrink than I first could imagin.
Decided to go with a MDPC-X White Carbon backside / layer 2. Finished!
Hope you like it. I admit I'm proud for my first time ever sleeving. Lots of first time for me in this my first mod
Don't be shy Feedback / comment are most welcome.
I love it so far! Great job on the sleeving as well.
Congrats on your first sponsor. That's huge!
Thank you so much, always fun to hear appreciation. Yeah very huge for a new modder like my self to get a sponsor. I know that this will be my passion and hopefully someday something else. Just trying to enjoy my self and all the amazingly fun things I learn every day. Love the awesomely helpful and friendly modder community that rocks so much.
MDPC-X 8pin EPS/ATX
Very happy with previous sleeving, so thought it was time to try to do a proper ARC as well. Took some measurements and decided for a length for layer 1 and 2. After some cutting, crimping, sleeving and finger torching it turned out really good.
I thought a long time about what I should do to the backside of my case, but it finally hit me. Carbon fiber full cover plates to tie up the theme and make a background for my new custom sleeved MDPC-X cables.
As with previous custom case parts to this mod, I did the backside panels in acrylic. New for the backside is a test of a new very exclusive car wrap. My supplier just finished wrapping a 250.000€ Lamborghini and had some vinyl to spare, for me to test.
The only problem with this part of the mod will be the custom case floor PSU shroud I previously created. I also want to secure the horizontal cover into the case edge, but have a good idea there as well.
The horizontal piece was very straight forward to cut. I made it exactly as wide as the case, but added 5mm to the height. More to why in the next step...
I cut away 5mm with my newly acquired Dremel Moto-Saw and as wide as the edge case plates visible in the previous picture.
With the 5min cut-out and some quick sanding with me Dremel (that I love more for every mod) the fit is just perfect. It will prevent the horizontal piece to slide out in the bottom and made the top align perfectly with the motherboard tray.
After cutting the piece for the vertical part of the backside carbon mod, I took measurements for the cut-out for the floor as well as the holes for mounting it. I will share holes with the inside carbon fiber case wall, so the fit needs to be perfect.
Can't be happier with that cut-out, just a perfect fit. It's a little little wider then the floor, so after adding my 3M carbon fiber vinyl, it will be super snug.
Looking really good and everything aligns. Time to test my Lamborghini vinyl
Looks and feels even better then my previously used Di-Noc.
Super tight fit with extremely nice surface to it. It's water resistant as it's a certified car vinyl, but I hope I never have to verify that
Finished result with an even sexier case backside. What do you think?
I really love this case, and furthermore what you've done to it (not a big fan of leather, but it's a nice choice here).
But there is something i do not understand/see/guess/readthefuture, it's how you will connect your res to the intake ok the pump? By using the pass throughs?
First, thank you very much for your feedback. Much appreciated.
Secondly I will try to answer your question The answer is in some of my early posts, but maybe not 100% clear.
I will do a little unconventional tube routing to go from the outlet of the Reservoir beneath my custom floor, up through the pass throughs, then do a 180 tube bend, back into the inlet on the plexi pump top. Then back out from the plexi top outlet parallel to the custom floor, turn 90deg upwards and then do some bending / connecting into GPU. Etc.
The 2nd pass through in the back corner, is to go straight from the HWL x-flow radiator (it should be perfectly aligned) down into the pass through, then I connect from pass through into the Reservoir. Hope that answers your questions :=
Following progress from the start, I keep on admiring your accuracy and your remarkable attention to details...can't wait to see the final shots
Thank you very much kim. Makes a humble modder like my self very happy to read.
I hope to be able to start pushing assembly this weekend. Finally
4th time is a charm I guess. Tried many different coloring versions for the backside be quiet! logotype and fan covering plate. Never really happy with what I manage to do. Decided to go with carbon fiber over the entire plate making the be quiet! logotype visible in relief. Worked out nice against the white leather.
But after that, the weekend did not go as planned, but decided to share my none-progress anyhow!
I had hope of finishing all my lighting details this weekend, together with all mounting holes, brackets etc. But that was just a hope as nothing has turned out as planned this weekend. Actually the first time I'm really disappointed on the outcome. My solution for uplight for the two SSDs will not work in reality. It is to tight of a fit in relation to mounting the floor (and with pump, reservoir, tubing inside the floor, I will need a little wiggling room). I also think the LED isn't looking like I want. I imagined a full single light solution, not small dots with to big of a gap. Didn't help that I broke my entire L-shaped LED lid in half, when I tried squeezing the floor in place. Will need to go back to the drawing boards on that solution.
I'm thinking if I can mount the LEDs pointing backwards and then mount some sort of reflector to get a more smooth and even light. I hate LED-dots, light should be even and fluent. Any suggestion on a solution for that is much welcome...and don't mind the blue light, couldn't switch light with my hot-wired 9V battery
Eureka - reflectors!
Woke up 2 am this morning, mildly irritated about yesterdays light failure. This has to be solvable.
Messed around with flashlights, kameraflash and suddenly it hit me. The newly mounted LED strips in my kitchen. EUREKA - reflectors of course!!
Did a quick test with grill foil and so MUCH BETTER <3.
I have to order some reflector tape and if that isn't enough, see if I can use a prism to devide the light.
Slept like a baby
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