Scratch Build – In Progress Temporary name: Bloo Balls --6-29-'11 Bloo 2.0 refit COMPLETED page 47

Ahh I got it now Thanks to clear this up to me

 

I like the layed back view, but i don't want to see some galvanic corrosion going on.
http://books.google.com/books?id=FC..._6U&sig=-OcuLD32O6m9WhVzQW81bOkDYaA#PPA294,M1
Basically, when 2 metals are connected with a conductive material in between, in weakens and corrodes the weaker metal and the other one becomes stronger. Copper and brass are pretty similar, copper and alu minum are not. This will cause complete deterioration of the weaker metal and caues some MAJOR leaking, and ruining the weaker component. I am not sure how anti corrosions work, but i personally woulnd't trust it, as as long as there is a charge won't galvanic corrosion happen?

 

There are several companies that sell non-conducting coolant. As long as you don't introduce any contaminants into the loop, they will not support Galvanic corrosion. BUT, if there is something that corrodes for another reason, that can alter the fluid so it becomes conductive. The best way is to use all the same metal AND use non-conductive fluid just for safety's sake. Another safety method that is even more secure is to bond the metal items. This means you ground them all together. That way there is no charge difference between them. Ergo, no galvanic corrosion. This is the technique used on boats. (For those of you that know something about boats, the reason they additionally use sacrificial anodes (zincs) is because of the difference between the electrical charge of the boat in relation to other things around it.)

So, the answer to your last question is: Not necessarily.

A simple way to think of galvanic corrosion is that it is un-wanted metal plating. When you metal plate, you introduce an electric charge to make the metal flow, molecule by molecule over to another piece of metal. In galvanic corrosion, it is a very slight electrical charge created by the different metals having a different number of electrons. So the molecules of the "lesser" metal slowly coats the other metal.

 

About the non-conductive fluid, it MIGHT be non conductive out of the factory,but it comes in contact with things like the tubing, chemicals in the radiator, copper, barbs, et cetera. These do have ions, and will give it a positive/negative charge making it non conductive. People have done testing with "non conductive" liquid, even without touching other contaminants, straight out of the bo ttle put some on electrical parts and they fried sure enough... Its pretty hard to de-ionize something.(and expensive)

I may be talking out of my a$$, but thats my understanding of it.

 

@Teyber -I'm well aware of galvanic corrosion. You should see what it did to the inside of my old van engine. (not enough antifreeze + 25 years of neglect.) I have a bolt in the side of the timing chain cover/water pump channel where it rotted completely through. I somewhat EXPECT to have some corrosion problems, so I plan to take preventive measures.

@razzta010 -I'm sealing it with silicone glue. It's a thin layer, but with a 1/4" wide seal surface.

 

it's a "German only site" ................

Alan

 

A lot of people haven't actually held 1/8th aluminum in their hands. (It's thicker than you'd think) And I know how thick it really is. The way you've set up the block I don't think you could bend it before breaking the motherboard anyways. Besides, I'd use springs for tension anyways.

 

Now that I look at it... It's actually less than 1/8", but more than 1/16th...
I'm not sure what you mean Fozzy, do you mean springs other than the clip spring on the board?

@theAlien -oops. If I can't recognize conversational German I'm pretty screwed up after looking at a whole page of technical German. The words on that page made my eyes all woogly.

 

I used .04" for all but two sides, the bottum and rear i used .8" and that stuff is THICK! cheapskate thickness should be fine.

 

Structural integrity isn't my problem, Teyber, it's heat transfer.

I just came up with a way to ease the spring tension, (if I need to.)
I can hook split washers to the retention rings on the mobo. then thread the spring through them, kind of like adding an extra chain link. If the NBblock didn't need to sit slightly under the other block, I could make it as thick as I want this way.

 

I've been sanding stuff for a few weeks now, but the progress is only now starting to show.

-Here's a pic of that lovely broken screw. It's stainless steel, so I can't drill it out. The bottom is glued on now with the sides and bottom sanded and polished. Once the glue cures I can do a test run.

-The drive bay got a dose of polish. There are still a few spots that need touching up, -mostly where the solvent pooled up gluing on the bracing.

-I'm using the homemade polishing wheels to get spots like the screw countersinks. They are nice and soft so they get into cracks fairly easy. You can see this one is now shaped like the countersink holes. The blue thing is a block of polishing wax, and the white sheet is a bit of felt for cleaning off polish residue.

-Time for progress eyecandy. The side is still incomplete. I need to clean up the glue scars and polish the details on the tailfin.

-The inside layer of masking is still on the sideplate, That's why it's so dark. The top frame is not attatched in these pics. The red part is just resting on top of everything.

-I love the light shifts in the on switch ball. It looks like it's getting angry. I made some buttons for the holes in the front. I need to find a way to catch them if the buffer decides to throw them. (Where's my monster aquarium net?)

enjoy

 

Thanks!
-Looks like I turned everyone into goldfish.

 

Looking great, Cheapskate! Definitely liking the different styling and color combo. It seems to be coming all together now.

 

Obligatory

Small question, how do you mount drives in those three upper drive bays you've got there? I don't see any holes for screws except on the lower ones.

 

Hehehe, another goldfish

Looks great dude!!! That drive cage is awesome!