Maybe you could at least paint some of the conncetors? (where it is plastic) PCI slots, AGP slot, RAM slots, etc
Hello there Piloux! I signed up with Bit-Tech to congratulate you for your second master piece. This project still has a lot of potential, but knowing you it will again raise the level of modding in this community. Was wondering how you plan to age the 'res tubes' but I guess you will probably do something like what you did to the continous current meter, but from the outside. Look forward to your next update. Keep up the good work bud Alert - I was discussing your work with a buddy and he suggested a 'break glass for emergency' window. Then I thought you could attach a trembler device to the window and depending on the frequency of vibrations (and of course intensity/amplitude) convert it into a 'reset' switch! I forgot to mention.... you use the crow bar to hit your window..er reset switch You could also rig the crow bar holder to 'enable' the trembler when there is no crow bar, and this would be the safty feature!
It would be a plexi window for starters, and he would probably give it the 'rustover', so I don't think hitting it would cause any problems eh? Piloux: if you consider doing this, I drew this up for you as a starting point: SW1 could either be a) conduction through the crow bar, but this means the 'holders' have to be insulated against the case... or b) the crow bar presses against one of those mini-switches when clipped onto the case...or c) use the weight of the crow bar on the 'retention mechanism' to trigger a switch. To explain the schematic, you got a simple OR gate taking input against 12V and gnd. As well all know 1 and 0 to an OR = logic 1, but we want the reverse for the relay (as this will save the life of the relay), so the Hex Inverter. The NPN (ideally a BC547) is not needed, I forgot to take that out, but you can use it if you feel like it, no harm. Also reverse bias diode for the relay coil to take care of back EMF Hope this helps...
Hi and welcome @ Bit_Tech thank you for your idea, one hour ago I thought about it but I don't find a place to put this emergency window... this is a mid tower ... it is not very easy to integrate everything I want into the case so far to reply to your question about aging the res tubes , that's right I make it like the gauge window and you can see it in this update here is my today work I made this piece to fix the res into the case with the same mesh I used on the psu I also make aluminium feets and give dirty aspect to the front uv plastic here are res and pump on their place, pump is a maxijet 1000, I fixed it with rubbers to kill noise and vibrations I paint the second crowbar I made and this is the actually state of the case You can se the res tubes with the dirty treatment I gave to it
That is well sweeet! I trust those bolt will get rusted in good time? Nice job on the other crow bar, heck this is simply brilliant. Sir, I have been stunned! Gotta say this and I'll say this now, this is ...<drumroll> the best case mod for 2004 Q1!
I don't know if this was posted or not, but an idea for the lighting: make it flicker, randomly. I'd say cap, but that wouldn't be random. Like how lights that are about to die to, the flourescent tubes at most offices. Theres one above me doing it now.
I agree that would be great. Of course I have no idea how you would go about this but I'm sure someone on this forum could build a circuit for that with their eyes closed. The only question for me would be do you have the lights on normally and flicker off or the other way around.
OMG that thing is so awesome! You have a very good imagination, I cant wait to see you use it some more.
You could put a flip-up cover over the UV plastic in the front (bullet-holed as well?) and then use the existing plastic circle + one or two microswitches as a reset switch. That way you have the 'break glass' thing without it being so vulnerable to being accidentally reset. Thinking about it, two microswitches in an AND layout would be best to ensure that one can't get bumped accidentally, you have to hit the plastic fairly hard.
Intake from the top will encourage dust, and blowing air over the radiator will create the dead spot at the fan's hub. The ambient temperature inside a watercooled case is minimal anyway, and very rarely much higher than room temperature.
That is a GREAT idea! Like the other guy said, a sound reactive cathode should do it I'd think....that is awesome. Perfect idea.
hehe. Wow, this is looking absolutly AWESOME! I bet you could win some case modding contests with that. Will be looking forward to more updates
very awsome don't know if anybody mentioned it yet but it would be cool if you put the second crowbar in the window like you wanted to destroy the window (my english is bad hope you all understand what i mean)
