Scratch Build – In Progress Erector Set WaterPlant - Aug 17: All operational!

Thanks. I'm not irritated, just excited. I haven't had this much fun on a project in a while. Thanks for everyone putting up with a n00b. First mod and first time in mod forums. I'm learning the culture, so I'll calm down soon.

I have already pretty much decided against the balls. But I'm still just theorizing as to the feasibility of it. I'm thinking, with a 12" tall tube, the limiting factor would be the density of the object floated compared to the water flow (which would depend on the diameter of the tube). When the time comes, if the mood strikes me, I'll play with it.

The LEDs are a definite.

 

Short Update - Cool lights

Just a short update for 3 quick things accomplished.

I attached the newly re-built tower. Would have been quicker if I had put the supports on the right side the first time.


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Changed the top of the PS structure and swapped a couple of the shiny yellow plates with some groadier ones. (My spell check doesn't work right, or is that not how to spell "groadier"?) This went surprisingly quick, only about an hour.


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And built the first prototype for the wire runs. I took a shot of this with normal lighting, but it got corrupted somewhere between the camera and my server. I didn't notice before I had deleted it from the camera. As it's getting late, I don't think I'll take another one right now. But here it is with UV lights.

*** BEGIN EDIT ***

OK, here's the missing photo showing the wiring tray detail in normal lighting.

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And here it is under UV:

*** END EDIT ***


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The wires and plumbing will all be encased like this. This was the only set of wires ready to be sheathed, so I'm sorry it's buried down in there and harder to see. But you get the idea. The color shines out from inside through the patterns of the girders with the exact effect I figured it would. With red(orange) power, green data and blue water, especially the blue reservoir shining out of the tower column, it oughta look pretty good.

Dave's idea of shining up the silver parts will definitely have to be done. The way the color of the sheathing reflects off the one little spot on the top shiny quick-disconnect makes me want it to do the same off the inside (and outside) of the girders.

Looks like I get to learn how to nickel-plate. One of the Erector sites has a pretty good how-to on that, and it looks fairly simple. My plan is to get the WaterPlant totally finished and operational. Then completely dismantle it, plate, clean and seal parts and then re-assemble.

As far as what I see right now that needs changing is the red and yellow. I think the triangle red supports should stay. I don't want to get rid of all the other color, so I think I'll paint some weathering effects on the red plates that are left. Same for all the yellow. And of course that YOU-gly power supply gotta GO.

 

This looks like a fun and different project to follow .
Im not sure if u decided on what kind of plant its going to be and i seen that this isent the case itself so heres just an idea of mine.

If u aded a second base/layer underneath the watercooling base with the same dimensions and with a height enough for pci and displaycard u could put the mobo,dvd dispalycard and so on on that base, then u could put a smaller square under the motherboard base just to elevate the whole thing a bit ,that would give u an Oil rig at sea. If there is black coolant (i dont know) or maybe really dark blue u got your oil pumping in the reservoir tower he,he

 

Re: Suggestions

Thanks, Dave. The tower is a genuine Erector set part, supposed to be a boiler. It actually has an Erector sticker on one side. And yes, lol, it's definitely pre-weathered.

TapperSwe, I just erased a long disertation on what I was planning to do for the PC, and why I probably wouldn't put it in the base. But as I wrote, I realized I could really do almost everything I want base, with several advantages. So, I'm thinking that's what I'll do. Thanks. After figuring that out, I decided not to spoil the surprises on the PC section.

Oh, as for the coolant color, I could just go drain some oil out of the Prelude. It has been in there a while, probably just the right color/consistancy. Any suggestions on a pump that can handle 50 weight? Anybody wanna put a new front clip on my 88 4WS 'lude?

I may have a very small update this evening. Maybe, just maybe, with a short movie? If not, it'll be next week before I get back to this.

 

Movie

OK, I got the movie. I had two, the second one being better, but my laptop thermaled out before getting it over to my desktop. Bummer, but this one shows it good enough.

I shoved some UV tubing down the tower column to simulate water. Now remember, in actuality this will be a 1 1/4" tube with blue UV water in it, instead of two 3/8" and one 1/4" tube. Also, there will be other UV lights on it. The lights I am using can be found here:
12" UV lights

They do different patterns including just solid on. I may use two sets, or I may have external lights shinning in. If I use two sets of the sticks, I'll have one solid on and one in the pattern on the movie. By doing this, it won't go totally black, but just pulsate brighter. With the greater density of water, I'm hoping the individual LEDs won't show as much either, and of course, this is just one light wand, and there will be 4, so the dots may blend together more.

Anyway, here it is:

QT movie (.MOV) 4.03 MB 15 seconds

FYI: I just went back up a few posts to the last place I had photos, and added the missing shot of the wiring tray in normal light.

By the way, for those of you that notice URLs, you may notice the different folder for the movie. For any photo posted here, you can change the "post800" in the URL to "full" and see a full size version. And if you are strange, you could change it to "previews".

Obviously, I'll be experimenting with different way to light it; this is just the first try. But whatcha think?

 

Great idea. I am of an age that had these as new presents under the Christmas Tree. Brings back memories of the 1950's I thought I had lost. Mod on !

 

Another small update - and some questions

I did the flying run for the water connection from the radiator to the top of the reservoir:


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And I got rid of all the yellow. I think this makes enough difference. I'm thinking I can live with the little red that is left.


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I discovered that the little red footings are a little UV reactive. That is, some of them are. Checking my goody cases, I find that I don't have enough to have all of them UV or all of them not. So, since none of the ones at the bottom of the tower are, I'm going to make all the others UV.

I just placed an order for:

• Swiftech MCP350 pump (I'm going to build a little building to hide this in)
• 2 Koolance HD-55-L06 double HDD coolers (for the 4 drives)
• Hardcano 12 SE fan controller for the PC
• And a BUNCH of UV sleeving, heat shrink, spiral wrap, etc.

About the only other thing I have to order is a bunch of LEDs. I have a link at work to get them at .60 ea for UV, so I'll wait and order those tomorrow. And I have to get the plexi tube for the water tower column.

So, questions:

1. Dave suggested that I dull it all down to make the UV cabling stand out. Is it to the point it needs to be? Or do I need to get rid of those last few red plates next to and above the PSU?
2. Should I paint the silver on the radiator black? Or find a way to shine it up instead?
3. I notice a lot of people using resistors when wiring LEDs. According to the site I'm getting them, they say 3.6-4v. Their calculator says 3 LEDs in series doesn't need a resistor. (or any number of sets of 3-series in parallel) They give wiring for 2 LEDs in series with 1 resistor, etc. Is there any reason I see so many modders using a separate resistor for each LED? Don't make much sense to me. But maybe experience has taught you something I don't know.

 

cool mod. Love the idea. Would be awesome to get a hold of some of that stuff as you could make a really sweet "normal" case with erector set framing and some aluminum

 

First of all, I like how this is developing, the tunnel for watertube from the tower to the rad looks great.

1) I would keep the red parts, for some reason they look like they should be there
2) dunno
3) if the leds are really 3.6-4 then you probably don't need a resistor for series of 3. But for most people (me included), the leds they use are 3.3V, so then a resistor is needed. Some people wire each led individually, others (me included) put them in series. It's a matter of personal preference, if they are wired individually they can easily be replaced. Not that it takes hours to redo a 3-led array.
Finally: maybe this can help: (link)

 

i also think the red plates need to stay.

 

Questions/comments/answers.

@Fozzy - The cost of building out of Erector set parts could get expensive. The 5 sets I got cost me close to $200 on eBay. Even though I have used less than 1/4th of it, the actual parts I need are running low, so I figure it'll take from 5-10 more sets to do the PowerPlant PC.

But having said than, people pay $200 for a single tool. As a tool, the erector set could be VERY useful for prototyping. Then after it's worked out, build the parts out of your chosen material. So, in here I'll bury my real plan, this is just a prototype for me preparing for the real thing.

@jokkos & wbdog206 - Cool, that's what I was thinking about the red. Seemed to me that getting rid of the yellow really did the trick. Doing any more would be making it really to dull.

@jokkos, the link you sent is kinda like the LED circuit designer I was using except this one has 3 different ways to calc + a designed like the one you had. This site also has one you can D/L free. Disclaimer: I have NOT D/Ld that .exe. "Buyer" beware.

<EDIT>: I D/Ld the calculator above. It works. But it's DOS, one input at a time. Very primitive. Basically I'd much prefer the on online version. BUT if you need something simple available offline, it does actually work -dan
</EDIT>

 

haha - this is great.

actually looks like a working plant.

nice work.

 

the water tower thingo is interesting =]
nice work

 

looks wierd in a good way, as a compliment he

 

Gotta show greensabbath how to do woodwork

I was going to post this in greensabbath's Yuugou project but thought it'd be a little rude to clutter up his log with my pics, so it's here.

greensabbath, I think someone should show you how to do woodwork. So here's an example of what I can do with wood. I built a Japanese gate a few weeks ago. How ya like THIS joinery?

34" tall x 21" wide x 8" deep


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This was built from 5-6 sets of American Logs. I now have a total of 10 sets so the next thing I build will be bigger. But for some reason, I haven't touched them since I started the WaterPlant... ?

<flame invitation>
So, greensabbath, as you can see in the background, I have some of the original instruction sheets. I can send them to you if you think they aren't too advanced for you.
</flame invitation>

(OK, so the ENTIRE POST was a flame invitation. Do I know how to make friends, or what?)

So, now you know. The Erector set is not the ONLY childhood toy I've been revisiting.

 

Very amusing. Those remind me of Lincoln Logs though it seems American Logs has some more complex pieces.

 

Response

I think I agree about the radiator being all black, but haven't made up my mind.

As to the remaining red plates, I don't know if it's because the flash makes them shine more in photos than they do in RL, or if it's a difference in taste, but I think I'm leaving them. They are definitely shinier then the blue cause they got no rust, but they really do belnd in and aren't obtrusive. I think it needs the color for the day time.

On the other hand, I am still going to nickel-plate the silver. Nickel doesn't look TOO shiny for the daylight, but it reflects nicely at night. So, actually, I AM doing both. Shiny at night, weathered during the day. Seems to work. If making the silver stuff shiny kill the day-look, I can sure change it. Gotta dismantle in once to nickle-plate, if I have to do it again to paint, I'll have had practice.

 

Quick update - goodies arriving

I got the first package.

The Koolance dual disk cooler (I thought I order two of these, bummer. Ordered the other one today)


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Also got in the Swiftech pump.

Photos to follow on pump housing and some hose runs completed.

 

Quick update - a little work done

Here's the cage I made for the pump. It will have rubber mat surrounding the pump, with no bolts attaching directly to the pump, hopefully to cut down on vibration. And I TEST this pump. Unlike the Asetek, this one works. (STILL haven't heard back from Asetek support, been two weeks, now) In the background to the left, you can see I started a hose tray.


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More shots of the hose tray:

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A close up of the tower with the hose run attached:


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And just a coupla overall shots to close with:


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And two UV shots


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In this one it's clear which of the brackets are UV and which aren't. I'll change the far left ones under the radiator when it's tear-down time. I put some UV hose in one of the runs to get an idea what it'd look like. I'll actually use clear hose and UV blue dye.


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