Case Mod - In Progress Knight's Rest-Knight Rider 30th Anniversary build (12/4/13-Waiting for coolant...)

These are the sides to the front. They're vacuum metalized (very well I might add) but they need to be black. They also need those holes filled in. As filler doesn't adhere well to vacuum metalized parts, I'll hit them with some primer/surfacer.



Like so.

Since I'm out here, I sanded and sprayed more filler on the hood scoop. It's getting there, really needs just a bit more filler and some glazing putty. Thinking about swapping fillers, though with proper sandpaper (like when I found my stash that I had put away) even the junk I have isn't too bad. It's more a functionality of doing it right than doing it fast. Slow down, enjoy the work, realize that the end result is worth it and relax.



It's cleaning up, though I still need to drop filler in those two gouges.



Where it stood when I stopped working today. Weather was a bit cool to get primer to dry.



These are the lower panels to the case. They're being reshaped with the foam to change the lines of the case and add a bit more "carlike" feel to it.

First they're roughed out, as above. Next I paint it with a water-based paint (I used Polycrylic, you can even use latex house paint) because I learned my lesson with both filler and primer on the hood scoop. After that, I primed both panels before filler, so as to add another layer of protection in.





I know they're rough. They have no filler at all yet. This is all prep, to make it easier when I start to put filler down. The snafu with the scoop showed me that this stuff is very unforgiving.

Here's where I am now. I may pick up some more spreaders tomorrow when the little one goes to the doctor and I pick up more pills. If so, I'll probably lay down some filler and start shaping them.

 

Thank you for doing this outside, young one.

We need no more indoor fumes than we can avoid.

john

 

Hmmm, I have a PCB design for a 12 x 10mm LED Larson Scanner. Think you could use something like that?
Also it's not often my wife reads builds over my shoulder but she was cooing over your tired helper!

 

I could definitely use that Larson scanner. I've been having no end of trouble finding one that has 8 LEDs and hopefully can be wired into the backup batteries for the other lighting in the case.

Been experimenting with magnetic fasteners for the trim pieces, so as to clean up the look of the pieces. Currently I have one actually held in place properly, and I'm experimenting with some more. Need to find stronger neodymium magnets. They exist, but ouch at the cost.

 

Very cool so far.. Subbed.

 

I have to spend most of tomorrow turning real wrenches, but I just remembered I have something here you might could help me decide as well, phenoptix. I'll shoot you a few pics of the items in question and see what you think when I get in tomorrow. Just thought of it before turning in.

 

Anything you want to run by me is fine! Look forward to hearing your questions and seeing the pics (well seeing the questions as well I suppose).

I'll get on with my PCB design for the Larson then. It should be the width of a drive bay (150mm), thus far it runs off 3V but we can add resistors or something more solid to run at a voltage you could pull off a Molex connector or batteries or whatever.

 

Back with more updates, though these are of a more... indoor variety.



So what's with filling the holes where the screws go? Well, at the bottom of each of those holes is a powerful neodymium magnet. The filler is to keep the magnet from skittering away, as well as to even the surface for epoxy and CF cloth. When finished, this will hopefully have no holes where the screws once were. Still need to fit lenses for the hard drive lights.



You can see just how small they are, yet they hold just fine. These are for the side trim pieces that cover the sides of the top louvers.



Just keep this view in mind, it'll change in a second. Also, apologies, my camera is starting to give out.



The ESA's bluetooth module, however, it's very dead. Didn't know till I tried to pair my new mouse.



Wire clips, in original whitish and new and improved black. I tossed them in a dye bath. Works real good.



This horribly crappy picture show's KITT's alpha circuit, or the ESA board. They perform the same role-they allow KITT to control the car (or computer.) Right now it can ramp up and down fans, pumps, lighting, and open and close the top automatically depending on the conditions in effect.



Can you spot the difference?



The difference is subtle in the last picture, but you'll notice the purple-black coloration of these metal pieces? I created my own MBS formula for galvanized steel. Doesn't rub or wash off. Also, it shows the Widmaenstatten lines in steel just like an acid etch. This shot shows the lining on this piece.



A much better shot, showing the trays with the MBS applied and installed. Don't worry, when the sun comes back out I'm gonna reshoot all this.



Rewiring the beast after polishing the chassis and installing a multitude of sensors. This was a real pain.



A trim piece, with its magnetic fasteners visible during mock-up.



Wiring the back bays to the front for HDD access.



And she lives, though I'm far from content with some things. The VGA power connection is temporary, for one. The ESA interface with the cooling system beside the motherboard needs more holes drilled and tapped, and I have to put some ties down for some of the wiring. But, I'm now able to start focusing on the aesthetics of the inside, as well as creating the front panel setup.

Very little of this besides my proprietary MBS colorant formula is groundbreaking. From here on out, I intend to change that. I'm sure none of you have a complaint with that.

Also, I'm typing you up a PM, phenoptix. I've missed catching you over the last few days.

 

Man, this thing is a tank. Looks like lots of band-aids to me! I couldn't do it; too many sharp edges.

Those Nidecs are gonna kick butt. And Bill's billet wrapped around them? Awesome.

Keep it going, Kayin! Subbed.

 

I love that it's an alienwares case... Would be better if it was a classic alienwares case, though! lol Looking good, keep it up!

 

We remember leaving off here...



Looks worse, feels smoother. It's getting there (found my bondo damaged the foam chemically, though I've now sorted a solution for that and I shouldn't have any more collapses.)



Moving forward with reshaping the lower panels...



It'll take some shaping yet, but I think another skim coat is in order...



Same with its twin.



Should be the last run of glazing putty, one more prime and it'll need to be sprayed. Then comes the fun of wetsanding.

 

NIce ideas, and coming together quite beautifully.

Btw, luv the lacing (who still does it!), reminds me of the 80's when I did my instrumentation and control trade-test - that's all we ever used on cables, none of the easy and fugly zip-ties of today

 

That skim coat I mentioned...



Other side as well...



Started using an orbital sander (hands can't take manual much any more) as well as working on the gap that used to exist between paint and vacuum metalization. Plan for that is that it disappears completely when I'm done.



Other side is prepped like this as well. You can see that there's less and less to fill each time-exactly what we want.



While it looks a horrid hodgepodge of colors, they help me to determine what's not right yet. Also, we're getting ever closer.



A bit shaky (as was I) but the primer smoothed out a LOT of that.



And both sides are now missing that gap around the edge of the panel.

Tomorrow should see me bring out the unmodded side panel and fix a long, annoying seam on it. Should be just a bit of glazing putty and a coat or two of primer, a bit of a sand to knock down the roughness, and I'll start getting the interior of the panel prepped for paint as well as upholstery.

It's slow, but I like the progress. It's very fun, to be back working like I did with my father. I still need to get my rad out and spray it, now that I think of it.

 

Loving the shade of red you've chosen, this is going to be sweet when it's finished.

 

The flat case panel, coated in high-build red oxide primer. Still needs gaps filled and the armor sealed into the back. But they're coming along.



$14 dollar Harbor Freight sander, primer, sandpaper and... Polycrylic? What gives? Well, it's a great sealer for the pink insulation foam. Otherwise, paint and bondo eat it and it collapses. Hence the holes I fought with the hood scoop earlier.



There's a coat of it drying on that parti-colored hood scoop. It doesn't look it, but it's almost done. Another run of primer and a bit of sanding on spot putty and I should be ready for paint. More on that in a bit.



That's the back bezel of the case. It's in its last primer coat, and I resculpted a fair few of the lines with the sander and a rasp. Too many straight edges, KITT had some but not that many. Looks better to me this way.



Everything in primer, waiting for sanding with 150 to remove orange peel from the primer before proceeding. The lower panels are MUCH straighter than before, but they're not 100% finished yet. Another run of putty and primer, and they'll be there.



First paint applied, and I'm gonna choke someone. I wanted the deep, deep black that KITT was, instead I got black metallic. This will have to be sanded off and redone.



The hood scoop is finally hole-free and almost 100% level. Gonna have to find a can of REAL black to test that with though. Once I'm content with the primer coat.

I'm looking around at what my options are. Right now, I'm honestly thinking of brushing on a self-leveling paint and then wetsanding that out like a regular finish. It would have the added bonus effect of not choking me with fumes since my lung function continues to fall (my chest deformity is now visible with the naked eye, fun.) I'm looking at paints, we'll see what happens. I do know I'm not gonna get all this way and then paint with the wrong color. Saw an old show car that was brush painted, it was indistinguishable from a sprayed finish. Foam brush for no brush strokes and I might be on to something.

Wave goodbye to the 6950, it's going across the room to my wife's PC. She's sold her pair of 5770s, and I need to go back to the green team for the ESA integration. Whatever I get has to be able to max out GW2 on a 1900x1200 screen, and possibly higher if I replace this monitor. I may also be replacing my board and processor with a Z77 Sabertooth and some undecided 1155 processor, possibly a 3570K. I've even got a pair of hexacore processors sat here on my desk, but it's a radical change to move to that. Not that I don't know how to make duallies work, and they're Phenom II class processors. Basically a pair of downclocked Thubans.

When the outside is done, then I'll turn my attention to the inside and start stealthing components, as well as adding KITT's power source and working on the permanent cooling system. Lots to do, but I'm about to be over a major hurdle.

 

Looks really good so far. I'd say keep at it

One question though, is that the porch outside your house? If so, I can see you painted on top of your fence. Don't you think it's a shame to paint all over your own fence?

Also, I ALWAYS test the paint I buy, especially if I have it custom made or if I don't trust the brand. It will also help you to see the end result once the paint dries.

Anyways, keep it up!

 

Well, paint update:

I tried a single panel and sprayed it black, to find the imperfections. (That's why it's the worst color to paint, it shows every one.) Even though I sprayed outside, with a proper breeze and everything, I'm still clutching my rescue inhaler. After taking almost every precaution possible, my body just says no, and I'm listening. It doesn't hurt that I'm very dissatisfied with the color of the black, either. But a brush-painted finish isn't really discernible from a sprayed one if you know what you're doing and if you take the time to do your sanding properly (rule of 100 and all that.)

I've still got some body work to complete (this front is untouched so far) and I've been taking precautions, but chemical fumes are really just too much now. Kids, don't be like me when you grow up-listen to what your body tells you when you're young. Also, don't let your OCD run free on a project like bodywork and fabrication. That will drive you insane.

More updates when I get more news.

 

I've done some brush-on paint work that came out awesome. The downside is it's not something that can be done outside. It stays tacky for two days, and in the southern wetlands, that means it will be coated with bugs.

 

This is a non-pictorial update to let people know I haven't died and I am proceeding apace with the build. Mostly what I'm stuck with right now is the waiting game, I'm waiting on my new 570 Superclocked to come in, as well as an answer about pump PCBs and some parts to finish the front electronics.

Knight's Rest has transitioned to a Z77 Sabertooth, with an I5-3570K and 16GB of Samsung Greens, waiting on my cooling to improve for overclocking fun. So far it's performing better in this setup, as there's very little airflow in it.

I'm on the hunt for 38mm PWM fans that won't kill fan headers they're plugged into. Anyone got any suggestions?

 

So, been a bit, mostly medical issues, though some has been simple drawing cutting cardboard and fitting. There's very little room available, and there's a liquid cooling loop going in here...



Remember this guy? He still leaks. I'mma gonna fix that, real good like.



Only when it has been destroyed and rebuilt in my image will it be functional again!



Save those for later...



One end's tanks gone...



Looks like it was more solder than rad. I aim to fix that going forward...



Both tanks off...



And down to bare core. This assembly does not leak. Tanks leaked before. I ran water through this again, it's still fine. Need to get some desoldering braid and clean the rest of the solder off the rad (there's at least as much as in that puddle still on the rad) and then sandblast the core. It looks pretty rough.

So, while I make up tanks and get them ready for silver solder, I started working on the spacer between the fans and the rad.



1/2" acrylic, holes predrilled (would hate to cut it then bugger drilling a hole...)



A proper blade, and a slower than normal speed do wonders.



The interior cutout, and you can see my EKG hanging out of my shirt in the foreground. It's been a major impediment to progress.



And the completed crappy cutout. I'm currently filing to make it look presentable. My hands shake so much now I can't keep the saw straight very well. Still doesn't mean I don't try.

While shaping the abovementioned shroud with the Dremel clone I keep for such, I had a work-stopping accident, or I'd have a finished product for you. Never seen anything like it happen, so here's your warning.

A non-reinforced wheel and a chunk of melted acrylic got in under my glasses and burned themselves to my eyelid. It did no permanent damage, just hurt like nobody's business and put me off working for the rest of the day. That and I was standing in the rain Dremeling. Wear proper goggles, kids. I wear a very, very strange glasses prescription so I can't get prescription goggles or I would. Those huge stupid-looking goggles that go over your glasses are on my to-buy list (I already wear shatter-proof lenses.) This could have ended in real tears, but instead I got a warning burn and that was it.

I'm continuing work apace, but I've had two ER visits since I updated last. None were for modding-related injuries, just my falling lung function. I persevere though-I'm so close, I swear I am. I'm gonna finish this if it kills me. (The likelihood of it doing so is rather slim, honestly.)

See you soon hopefully with more progress...