Thanks guys. @Widmod - The inlet block was the major hurdle that was keeping me from finishing. I need to put everything together with hot glue and do a test run, then I can slap it together.
I finally put aside the other projects and got back to the one everyone's here to see. -The gears were touching the inside of the tube, so I needed some more clearance. This is the (classic) setup for drill press boring. The brace in the front keeps me from cutting too deep. Some bracing on either side would have made a more uniform cut. -In position... -How I glued the inlet block forced me to reposition the guts. Now my shafts are too long. hehe:too easy...) -Here's a shot of the inside cuts. I have a lot of sanding to do yet. It's a small update, but it is an update. Thanks again to DangerDen for sponsoring the 'Toad.
Whups! Thanks, guys! kinda forgot to check the log. I kind of put this back down an worked on other stuff again, too! -but TONIGHT... I'll do something else again.
It works OK...I have 3 logs to update tonight. Forgive me if I get sloppy. -EXTERMINATE! Just kidding. I tapped the holes out. -I glued the paddle assembly together. -To be specific, I glued the paddlewheel to the drive gear shaft. -Then I glooood the drive assembly in the tube. -I added little stoppers on the gears so they could catch and turn the spirals. -The first water test with a 700gph aquarium pump. It sounds like someone sloshing ice cubes in a plastic tumbler, but it works!: I noticed at this point that the top part of the spirals were dragging on the top bracket. I had to fix that. -I added a spacer to the top of each spiral. Now the tank is too short for the inset top bracket. -I made a new bracket that sat on top of the tube. Then the rods were too short again. -Water test 2 with new driveshafts. I did some tweaking like rounding the bottoms of the spirals. This was to keep them from binding the gears. -Closer... -The rotozip with a drill bit is the only way I could cut the extruded sheet for the caps. -I used a compass to find the center of the top cap. -after I drilled a hole in it, I took it for a ride on the drill press. -I tapped the hole, and threaded some 1/2" acrylic rod for a fillport. -I glued a knob on the top of the rod, and added a gasket. -Here's the testfit. You can see the scotch tape holding the driveshafts in place here. -Later I removed the tape and glued the cap on. I still need to make the bottom. Many thanks to DangerDen!
Wow! seem to have been a noob and missed all the past updates This is really pro work, and great design!
Thanks everyone! It does work, It's just kinda noisy. The gears have a lot of play and it clatters. I have video, but I found out my camera rips to QUICKTIME. I need to find just the qt codec. There's no way in hell I'm installing that bloated qt software so it can run in my system tray for all eternity.
Wow, your reservoir is turning out great! I wouldn't call it a BAD reservoir anymore, at least mediocre
Thanks iwog, -saved me a search. @yeknom - Thanks, They were bad ideas. I have to work out the problems to make them good ideas.
You two bust me up.. fist I LOL:ed at the wine and monocle comment.. and then I LMAO at the reply!! XD I love the gear design Cheap, and that squid arm engraving is really cool!! I hope you get it running smoothly enough w/o to much trouble! =D Btw, have you considered "rubber band drive" instead of gears? Hmmm, what about replacing the middle gear with three thin rubber band drive wheels (RDW from now on), mounted on top of each other, then move the external gears a bit higher, and mount a RDW under each of the external gears. This way, you get the smoothness of rubber band drive combined with the visual effect of the rotating gears. Do I make any sense at all now?
Crazily over-engineered designs for a water reservoir... And I love them! You definitely have the Tribaloverkill-syndrome.