Planning The GuilleAcoustic design thread

A small reservoir is favourable, as it's ment to catch the air-bubbles in the loop.
Most setups I see totally fail in this question tho, as the reservoir is placed in the wrong position. A reservoir needs to be placed on the highest (vertically speaking) place in the case to work like intended, as the air-bubbles automatically will find their way to the highest point in the loop... simple physics!
So an ideal loop has the pump in the lowest spot of the loop and the reservoir on the highest spot in the loop with the rest of it's components (rads and blocks) inbetween the two. Vertical alignment is what we're still speaking about.

A filter is not necessarily needed permanently in the loop actually, and I've allways used a simple stainless steel coffee-filter when installing the loop. Filtering upon filling the loop makes sure that you don't have dust or other small pieces left in the loop clogging the small structures of the waterblocks.
The product from aqua-computer there is a nice feature tho, as it comes with ball-valves, letting you easily drain and refill the loop for example. Good position for it would be in the bottom of the case, between the reservoir and the pump, so that when you fill the loop through the reservoir it instantly catches all dust and small debris, before it get's pumped into the loop.

 

Thanks for your answer. It's perfectly clear now. I'd read about the air trap function, but didn't knew that the res should be on the higher place, but it is logical. I saw pressure valve, is it better to had one, or is it for specific cooling setup ?

The pump was already on the lower point, just didn't knew what to do with the res. Now it's time to play with SU.

Thanks a lot

 

Using valves makes maintenance easier. You can use them for draining and refilling the loop without disassembling the loop totally etc.

The ball-valves on the aqua-computer filter there are for removing and cleaning the filter without actually draining the whole loop. You just cut the loop off by closing the valves and then you can remove, clean and reinstall the filter.

Another thing for making maintenance easier is to use a T-part to drain the loop. Simply install it in the lowest point in the loop and open it when you want to drain the water. -> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p9052_Koolance-4-way-valve-G1-4.html

Pressure-valves are good to make sure, that the pressure in big loops get's reduced. Pressure builds up due to the heat ofc, and you simply can use this valve ontop of the reservoir, to release pressure automatically after the loop is installed. -> http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p7708_Pressure-Valve-G1-4----silver-nickel.html

All this maintenance is basically the reason for why I stopped using watercooling-setups a while ago, as I just don't like all the hassle anymore, especially when I don't do overclocking anymore and only buy energy-efficient hardware these days.

 

Hi everyone,

it's been a long time with no update. I was very busy both at work and at home, and I wanted to try something about my design before posting.

I have improved the chamber isolation and now the rad take the cool air from outside and exhaust the hot air outside the case. I've added a central monolithic res, it increase the depth by a fair 70mm but I really like the way it looks. Maybe it is the price to pay, and sometimes you have to listen to your heart more than your reason .

Well, here are the screenshots. They are low res, I'm at work right now, but I'll post high res ones tonight (with all tubing done and SSDs in place).













What is in progress :

- PSU modding : Custom low height enclosure with custom connector (fan / LED / pump connectors, XLR like for SSD, 24 pin industrial XLR like connector for mobo, etc.)

- Reservoir holding system

- All the details that will make it irresistible

 

Looks quiet cool with the res exposed in the middle there

 

Thank you.

This is still a "RAW" design. The outside will be refined to look less angled, with fine details.

I just discovered a free software called mypaint. I using it to draw over the SU 2D export with my wacom tablet. Painter is a good software too, but very expensive. You can find a tone of free brushes for mypaint.

EDIT : I guess I'll have to find a new name since it doesn't looks like a monolith anymore

 

Having a tablet myself I'm not using it too often, as it simply isn't as intuitive when you can't directly paint on the image (screen).... god I'd love to get a Wacom PL-2200 in that regard

I'm thinking about buying an iPad just for digital coloring using the Brushes app actually

 

I don't use it too often either. To be honest, I didn't used it in almost 2 years. The feel you get when using a tablet is not the same than pencil and paper.

I guess it require quite some practicing to get use to it but I feel like giving it a new try

 

As promised, here are the high res pictures :

 

Ah... I wouldn't go down that route with the helix there in the res. It's been overused during the years imho.

You should keep this clean as possible and only highlight the res with some light. Less is sometimes more

 

I agree, I wanted to try it, but it looks kind of weird. A classic EK Multi-option with a bottom LED would be probably better.

Edit : Has anyone ever work with that kind of connectors ?

http://www.fischerconnectors.com/htm/Products-Part-Numbering.htm

I'd like to use it to mod the PSU. They do even have 24 pins circular connector. That exactly what I want.

 

I have worked with connectors similar to that, but use the military specification versions. Glenair, ITT Cannon, and Amphenol are the companies I usually go to. When you are selecting the connector make sure you take some time and really go over the product literature.

 

Awesome design.

What feet are you putting on for the bottom fans? I was thinking big feet might spoil the sleek look you got, so wonder what you had planned?

Anyway can I pre-order now?

 

The old modular Hiper Type-R PSUs had such round connectors, but not for the 24-pin-connector. I didn't even know, that theres round connectors with that much pins available as I only know them from PA-equipment where there's usually only 2, 3, 4 or 5 pins needed. The bigger connectors where allways square back then.

There's some pictures of the Hiper Type-R -> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/5-power-supplies-full-juice-treatment,1216-8.html

 

Thanks mate ! I want to use decoupling spike feets. They are usualy used with high end amplifiers or loudspeakers. They prevent vibration to go from the speakers to the floor / desk. They are composed of spike shape feet and counter spike disks

Thanks for the links. It reminds me of some tagan's PSU too.

Don't worry, I always take a lot of time to read (maybe too much ). Thanks for the manufacturers name, I'll take a look. What I like about Fisher connector is their safety lock system (with quick disconnect) and the fact they have waterproof connectors.

 

Maybe it is a noob question, but does anyone know the current (in A) I should expect per pin on the 24pins connectors and on the PCIe ?

Another noob question, what tubing size do you recommend me ? I'll use EK full GPU cover block and EK Supreme HF CPU block (and probably the dominator RAM, but not sure yet).

 

A normal CPU draws some 100-140 Watt under load, which would mean 120W / 12V = 10A.

A high-power GPU like the 580GTX draws approx double of the CPU, so we're looking at 20A at max.

Now, we need to look at how the CPU/GPU is connected to the PSU to determine how much current passes each pin of the connector.
The 24-pin ATX connector has two +12V lines, resulting in some 5-6A per pin. The 6-pin PCIe connector has aswell two +12V lines, resulting in the same 5-6A per pin, as the high-power cards have two 6-pin PCIe connectors to start with.

I hope that helps you



For the tubing.... well I allways used 11/8mm black Tygon tubing, as it's UV-resistent and doesn't collapse as fast when doing some tighter bends. Also, the 8mm inner diameter is basically the same as the inner diameter of 1/4" fittings so ot matches perfectly and does't turn the fittings into "speed-bumpers", reducing the chance that the fittings start to leak.

 

Thanks a lot ! I'm trying to select the good connector and the size depends on the admissible current per pin. The 24 pins circular connector is going to be a big boy .

I'd never imagine it would take that much time to plan everything, but the literature is rich and new ideas are coming while reading. Anyway, I'm not in a hurry and I want everything to be well planned.

 

Dude, another great design! Please start building soon

 

I have to admit that I am liking the center res in this design. I have seen them hidden inside, or placed up front but the center is different in a good way.