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Watercooling Watercooling Adventure Time

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by LukeDaly, 25 Sep 2011.

  1. LukeDaly

    LukeDaly Pokemon Master

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    for the cpu? around £200 could maybe push to £250?

    if thats no good let me know, thanks
     
  2. Bloody_Pete

    Bloody_Pete Technophile

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  3. LukeDaly

    LukeDaly Pokemon Master

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  4. LukeDaly

    LukeDaly Pokemon Master

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    been looking all night here -.-

    here are some parts ive been looking at -
    all help appreciated! ALOT!
    if these parts are useless tell me and give me a reccomendation :D

    Res -
    phobya balancer black nickel either the 150mm or 250mm
    EK-Multioption reservoir again 150mm or 250mm

    Pump-
    phobya dc12-400 12 volt pump
    EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump)

    360 Rad-
    Phobya G-changer 360 ver 1.2
    EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360)

    120 Rad-
    Phobya G-changer 120 ver 1.2
    EK-CoolStream RAD XT (120)

    Waterblock-
    EK-Supreme HF - Acetal+EN (Nickel)

    tubes-
    reccomend

    fittings-
    bitspower
    black ek fittings
     
  5. SlowMotionSuicide

    SlowMotionSuicide Come Hell or High Water

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    Both are a decent choice. Pick a size that fits in your case.

    It's essentially the same pump, only rebranded by either company. Don't have any first hand experience, but you should do OK with it if you're not willing to shell out for a Laing pump, which are pretty much industry standard. I've heard that DCP 4.0 will be somewhat more noisier than laing D5 for example.

    EK also makes a nice combo reservoir for DCP pumps.

    Again both should work for their price. If you want something with more performance, Thermochill PA series or XSPC RX are the way forward, but these much more expensive.


    One of the best blocks currently. If you look to save a few £(or whatever currency), Supreme LT/LTX will not lose you lot of of performance, but costs way less.

    For tubing, I'd recommend 3/8 ID 5/8 OD tubing with compression fittings. It can be bent nicely, but isn't so bulky like 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing. Tygon is the best you can get, but you'd do adequately with most brands. Bitspower has great selection of different, matching types of adapters, fittings and angled connectors, something EK misses from their range atm.

    Also, Alphacool compressions are worth to check out, looks very nice and costs somewhat less than BP ones.
     
    Last edited: 26 Sep 2011
  6. LukeDaly

    LukeDaly Pokemon Master

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    could i possibly fit a 120 or 240 rad using the back 120mm fan holes?
     
  7. Big Elf

    Big Elf Oh no! Not another f----ing elf!

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  8. LukeDaly

    LukeDaly Pokemon Master

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    thanks man, this is for a haf-x btw, apparently they can take a 120 on the back with no mods? theres 2 holes for tubes etc.. any idea? or know anybody thats maybe tried?
     
  9. LukeDaly

    LukeDaly Pokemon Master

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    which Laing pump is it i should be looking at?
     
  10. Big Elf

    Big Elf Oh no! Not another f----ing elf!

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    If you have decent PWM control on your motherboard I'd consider a Swiftech 35X as the PWM allows slow running at low load ramping the speed up at higher loads. I run mine at 20% speed (currently just using the one pump) and have it scale up to 60% when the temps hit 50ºC.

    I've no experience with a 355 but they're supposed to be a bit quieter than a 35X but don't normally come as standard with variable speed. A 655 Vario is also a good pump and reasonably quiet at full speed although you may find you're able to run it at slower speeds.

    Any one of these would be sufficient for your proposed setup.
     
  11. LukeDaly

    LukeDaly Pokemon Master

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    is it a 12w i would need? or bigger? thanks :)
     
  12. Big Elf

    Big Elf Oh no! Not another f----ing elf!

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    All the pumps I mentioned are 18W-23W
     
  13. LukeDaly

    LukeDaly Pokemon Master

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    theres so many pumps im lost :(
     
  14. Guest-16

    Guest-16 Guest

    Do you need the extra 120? I know it's a hassle but why not try working with the 360 first. I've got a 360 cooling an i7-860 and OC'd GTX 480 using small 8mm tubing. Works great for me, and I wonder how much a second 6950 adds vs the super-hot 480.

    Also if you are planning to mount a res in the HAF-X bays, beware of dual-bay models because the HAF-X has small guiding rails that block it. I found that out the hard way :(

    RE: Motherboard PWM control - what board are you using? Our Fan Xpert software can do this for you. I'm not entirely sure if motherboards supports 18-24W via 3/4pin though; 1-2 amp seems very high.
     
  15. SlowMotionSuicide

    SlowMotionSuicide Come Hell or High Water

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    As far as I'm aware you don't stick the whole pump into motherboard - only the separate PWM lead for speed control. Rest of the pump is best to wire directly into power supply.

    Swiftech site will have more information.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  16. LukeDaly

    LukeDaly Pokemon Master

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    heres what i have chosen so far :/ what you guys think ? as far as i know its a decent setup ?
    just need to find out what and how many barbs i need ?

    [​IMG]

    thanks again, Luke
     
  17. SlowMotionSuicide

    SlowMotionSuicide Come Hell or High Water

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    2 for each radiator, block and reservoir, so 8 total. Your pump will have 1/2 barbs so expect hard times pulling that 3/8 ID tubing over them. You might wanna consider getting the plain pump body from Alphacool and add custom top to that - there's more performance to be had, more options for connectivity and it'll look way better than stock top. EK top will only be 17£ more if you get the plain pump body.

    It's worth pointing out that earlier this year EK had issues with their nickel plating process - lots of users were reporting their plating flaking off. Supposedly EK upgraded their plating process, which should have resolved the issue, but there are still some doubts and murmurs concerning the issue around the web - not everyone has been satisfied even with the new process. If you want to play 100% safe, pick another manufacturer's block, or get a plain unplated copper one from EK.

    For fittings, you'll need to get ones that'll match the ID of your tubing, in this case 3/8 inches or 10mm (actually it's 9,5mm) and get clamps to prevent the tubing from slipping off the fittings. It is also possible to run with larger diameter fittings like 1/2, but getting the tubing over them will be difficult.

    Also, have you given any thought for coolant yet? Running plain distilled water with silver kill coil and/or silver/copper-based biocide is recommended over colored premixes.

    Otherwise you're set to go.
     
  18. LukeDaly

    LukeDaly Pokemon Master

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    thanks man :) could you link me up to the pump? i see a few alphacool ones? and if i use compression fittings doesnt that mean i shouldnt need clamps? I thought the ek blocks were supposed to be the dog's balls? hopefully they'v addressed the issue, as i like the look of the ek block :p as for the coolant, your right on the money :) thats why i choose the red tubes :) another question, would it be better if i was to add a fillport to the res? or is it just as easy any other way?
     
  19. SlowMotionSuicide

    SlowMotionSuicide Come Hell or High Water

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    Alphacool VPP655 Single Edition

    Regarding compressions - you are correct. Compression fitting has a screwable nut which tightens and secures the hose to the fitting, i.e acts like a clamp.

    [​IMG]

    You won't need additional fillport imo, just design the loop so that you have enough hose length to pull out the tube res and unscrew the cap easily.
     
  20. LukeDaly

    LukeDaly Pokemon Master

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    thanks man :) your helping out alot :) is this the correct top? http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/EK-Water-Blocks-EK-D5-X-TOP-Acetal-G14-Rev-2_19917.html and 8 norm fittings? or will i get a few 90 degrees etc?
     

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