I have been a long time lurker and I am quite amazed at the works of computer art that you folks have shared with the world. I've been toying with a few concepts that I have "borrowed" from you kind modders so I can spruce up my own Fractal R4 Define and AquaComputer watercooling gear. Its been nearly 7 years since I was in big with this community and I'm happy to be back. =) I may need a little help and some further ideas while I work on this project over the next few months. I have a little one on the way @ the end of July and I'm afraid I wont be able to find much time after that. Most everything I've done so far is kind of a rough draft (mocked up with foam board) while I decide exactly what I want to do. Criticisms are very welcomed. Hardware specs... Intel i7 3820, 4x4gb Corsair Vengeance, Asus Rampage IV Formula, EVGA 670 for the win, Samsung 128 SSD (mounted on backside of motherboard) Im currently running a single Airplex Evo 240 radiator with a pair of Gentle Typhoons AP-30's running @ ~2000-2500rpm, Aquaero 5 LT, Aquastream XT, Original (Aluminum) Aquatube g1/8, Kryos HF & AquagraFX 680. This was my idea of a watercooled "budget performance" gaming rig... Anyways, the current (single) radiator is mounted in the front of the chassis, in the location that Fractal designed it for. What I want to do... I'm trying to source another Airplex Evo 240 so I can vertically mount the pair in a cross flow from side to side. In other words, the main side panel radiator acts as the intake while the radiator mounted next to the motherboard tray acts the the exhaust. Setting up the mount for this setup should be quite easy since I can use the already existing drive bays for support.
CPU block to reservoir could use an angled adapter (60 maybe?). The GPU Block to CPU Block looks okay. It might yutz up your look, but maybe just change them all? : P
how this push-in fittings performs? how they work if... erm... _someone_ pull tubing hard? i plan to use same fittings (already bought) and very interested in it's "performance"
The push in fittings are awesome, I've pulled on them pretty hard and they still hold on. I've worked with them for years and I have never been let down. I do need to get some G1/4 90 degree ones to get going on the side mounted radiator portion of the project.
[ot] i've bought 4 g1/4 for 12 мм OD tubing (pa12 rilsan)... now i have to make 120 mm ark (cpu to gpu) with tubing with min bending radius 85mm [/ot]
^ unless Im reading your words incorrectly, it seems like you should be able to make that arch. Okay, so I need some help rigging up a work bench or use an available dremel tool attachment that can accurately cut/sand an 1/8" plastic sheet at a 45 degree angle at the ends. My goal is to create a beveled edge to only have one visible seam when 2 plastic parts meet. Holding steady with just my hands wont work as Im not a surgeon, this has to be a precise as possible. Unfortunately my local TAP plastic shop dont do bevel cuts at anything less than 1/4". =( Any ideas?
well one can attach dremel to smth angled (45*) and advance plastic sheets under cutting weel like this and for tubing radius 85mm means _diameter_ 170mm and minimum "arc" is 170mm... and i can clearly see sand, boiling water and ice in my nearest future
I love that, Vet. That will work, but you will need a guide tacked on the board to keep the sheet from wiggling. You could flip the horizontal orientation of the dremel if you have a contouring bit, but cutting would be my preferred choice, especially with a Tablesaw: http://youtu.be/ccQI9urBkXQ Note: Turning a wood saw in reverse can work, but it mostly just melts acrylic, so if you go the table saw route, use a proper blade.
Minor update... I traded out the mocked up foam board for the high gloss white acrylic. I had a fun time using my newish Dremel Trio to notch out all the little slots to clear the rivets and whatnot in the steel chassis. I cant really move on from here till I get some Plug-in 90 degree fittings and I cant find anybody here in the US that carries them.
Can anybody offer any suggestions for a design for a male to male 3 pin fan header connection that passes through a 1/4 sheet of acrylic? male fan header - 1/4" acrylic - male fan header
Okay, for me this is a big update. I cleaned up the tubing which improved the flow a bit, got the radiator cooling box properly assembled (glued together and bolted in), 2 x Corsair SP120 High Performance Fans on the intake side 2 x Gentle Typhoon AP-30 on the exhaust side built, glued and set in place the psu cover I still needs to build the removable cover between the psu cover and the radiator box. This will likely be a 2 piece deal to surround the tubing running into the pump and flow sensor. I'm still trying to source another Airplex Evo 240 to improve those delta T's =) Also, please don't mind the wiring mess, that's like the last thing I'll get to... eventually...
did you find those 90degrees 1/4" 12mm? to bad you're not in sweden, i've could have sold those to you dunno which companies you have around your location, but anyone working with industrial pneumatic should have loads of those! (big filtration suppliers, like alstom and the likes) and most industrial plumbers to, they are very commonly used for air cylinders and pressure contro in industrial plants.l
No luck finding them here in the US. Im willing to have them shipped in but I dont want to spend more than $10 on shipping for such small items. I even asked Aquatuning if they could just throw a few in a padded media packet but that was a no go. Normal shipping from them was too much. =( The problem is that G1/4 and G1/8 is not in use in industry (from what I can see) in the US, we just have the American Standards. I've got away with using the straight fittings for now by swapping them around and only using the single radiator. Once I find that second Airplex Im going to have to find something cause I just wont have the room anymore inside the radiator cooling box.
I should have taken more pictures but I do most of my work at night when its dark... with a 1000 watt work light. Anyways, I decided to bore out the smaller 3.3mm ID hole in my AquaComputer flow sensor to match the outgoing side's 5.6mm. I just used a regular metal cutting bit and it did the job fine while clamped down. When I re-installed the flow sensor I immediately saw a 10l/hour increase in the flow. Not bad for a few minutes work.
Just an updated glamour shot. Im test fitting the pump cover (mid plate) so I can decide what adjustments I need to make.
Got the pump cover midplate finished (for now). I used two 1/8 acrylic sheets sandwiched and glued together. It just drops into place and allows the front panel connectors and usb to pass through.