I think that a front pannel with no switches would look very smooth, maybe have a 3.5" bay that's hinged with the switches behind it?
Off topic I know, but have you any idea where to get them allen bolts from? They would be infinitely better than the ones I'm planning to use on my new project.
I may have a different method of switching the PC on. I like touch and pressure switches. Cool thing is, these can be printed on a transparency in colour and made to light up when u turn the PC on. I'm sure I have a controller for a touch switch around somewhere. Just need a capacitor.
u actually using any of the 3.5 bays for anything assyou could make it so they are each switches... push the bay in lol.. jus an idea...
use a touch capacitance switch ( i think its called) linear talked about using them in his IC thread in electronics. they go behind the surface you want the button to be and sense electrical changes in the surface. so if you touch the plexi front the metal behind could act as the switch and turn the PC on.
Morphine, I already have the circuit built on my breadboard for the touch switches. It's basically the same circuit as Linear's
Well, can you share how you made a touch sensitive switch? I am making an acrylic case, and having no visible switch would be sooo l33t! lol
the switch is still visible, just no moving parts. you need something like a 1 inch piece of metal behind the area you want to act as the switch, and you need to provide power to the circuit even while the comp is off. You can do this by simply getting a radioshack wall AC-DC adapter and modding it to run off your PSU's power.
I got my estimate back from www.displaydevelopments.co.uk today. The front sheet at 5mm thick (4mm is unavailable) will cost a little under £20. Drilling and countersinking is extra, but it shouldn't be too much. Can't wait
The only screws I can find that are the correct size and have a low profile head are oil black because of the heat treatment process and aren't available in chrome or stainless steel. These are from www.fastfixdirect.co.uk If anyone else has an idea where to get them in chrome/stainless, let me know. They have to be M4x16 (approx length) and have a low profile round head.
have you tried screwfix? my builder friend goes on about them - don't know if they'll have what you're looking for, but probably worth a try.
Yea, screwfix, cpc, farnell, maplin, RS etc. If the normal sized bolts have a small enough head I'll just use them. Failing that, if I can't find any locally I'll just go with the black coloured bolts.
Since my Sketchup model of the PC-60 was based around my PC-70, photographs, and some basic dimensions, it wasn't the most accurate. Kameleon was kind enough to provide me with some measurements to correct my front panel layout for the acrylic cutting. This is what it should look like when it's finished.
I'm not sure why you're requiring M4x16 bolts (dont they just go into nuts behind the panel?), but check out RC Car hobby stores or http://www.towerhobbies.com - Associated alone has a boatload of bolts in plenty of sizes...not to mention duratrax, traxxas etc...
I am in the UK. I use bolts and other fasteners for a number of applications, not just this project. When the acrylic is 5mm thick, 12/16mm thread length is the best choice. I decided to use countersunk allen bolts, simply because it's difficult to find the ones I wanted with a shallow enough head (since the acrylic is only 5mm thick).
Sorry, meant about the M4 - could you go with M3? Take a look at these : http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFEF0&P=0 M3x16 titanium cap screws...
That's the kind I was originally going to use. I'm sticking with M4 though, they have a larger head (8mm dia). I have the bolts in my wishlist ready to order. I've also sent the dimensions of the acrylic away to be cut. Problem with those bolts is the head depth. Looks about 3mm. I think it'll be safer all round if I just use countersunk screws. Don't want to crack the acrylic.
