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Cooling Better flow?

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by XUntitled, 16 Jan 2005.

  1. XUntitled

    XUntitled What's a Dremel?

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    Another Q about my setup maybe someone can help me with... the tube from my fill and bleed kit to my pump is caving in on it self, take a look.

    The whole tube:
    [​IMG]

    Bottom half:
    [​IMG]

    Close up right before the tube connects to the pump:
    [​IMG]

    Picture of the fill and bleed:
    [​IMG]


    Thats 1/2" ID tubing to 3/8" ID tubing to fill and bleed to 3/8" tubing to 1/2" ID tubing to the pump.

    The pump seems to pull so much preasure the tubing colapses flat. I've tried adding move water but there just isn't room for anymore... I've gotten all the air I can possibly get out of it.

    Anyone have any tips on what I could do? Better quality tubing (its cheap stuff)? Moving the 1/2 to 3/8 converter? Getting a res? (I really don't want a res though... I just hate the idea of having a case of water directly over $300 worth of hard drives.

    Is there anything to even worry about? The waters still pumping through it... my temps are still really good.

    Any input would help at all.



    P.S. I know my wiring looks like junk atm

    P.P.S I know the bottom of the case is stained red

    P.P.P.S Refer the my "Something on my copper..." post of more info on my setup if you need it

    P.P.P.P.S Are you allowed to P.P.P.S?

    P.P.P.P.P.S This could on for a while but if I keep doing this someone is going to get mad at me...

    P.P.... oh I give up, excuse my bordom
     
    Last edited: 18 Jan 2005
  2. silentphoenix

    silentphoenix What's a Dremel?

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    Im no expert on this but id think a res would do you good. Doesnt have to be a bayres so you dont have to worry about ure drives.

    Also, did you notice the kink on the piping above the RAM slots? That could be causing a problwm to ure flow.

    P.S. the tubing isnt cheap - its some of the best stuff you can have

    P.P.S. is that a cheiftech BX case you have?

    P.P.P.S. did you know the bottom of ure case has red stains? :D
     
    Last edited: 16 Jan 2005
  3. Hobnob

    Hobnob What's a Dremel?

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    Well apart from a big kink at the pump intake and various other ones. Tbh, drain the system and cut the tubing so it's just the right size and it won't kink. Sit and bleed the system for a while, any bubbles you see in the tubes flick them and they should disappear. You could also try putting the system on it's back so the air can make it's way to the highest point, which is normally the reservoir. If you do it right your HDD's will be fine, what would you rather have, a good WC loop or a waterlogged motherboard, it won't be long before that pump leaks again.
    Another thing, i'd ask someone to advise you of what orientation, pump > NV-68 doesn't seem to make much sense. Pump > Rad > Reservoir > TDX > NV-68 > Pump would make alot more sense, would stop it kinking aswell.

    Tbh, you need a reservoir, how are you even filling the system as it is :eyebrow:
     
    Last edited: 16 Jan 2005
  4. slater

    slater Mummy Says Im Special

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    I think thats causing it

    Are you using 3/4OD tube or 5/8OD tube??

    slater..
     
  5. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    1. Resize your pics. Really.

    2. What wall thickness is your tubing? It should be thick-walled, i.e. 3mm, not the thin-walled 1.5mm stuff.

    3. You need a res. A res acts as a buffer for a greedy pump. And a D4 is very greedy.

    4. Slater is right. Your bleed and fill kit (and the kink in the tubing leading up to it) is causing a massive constriction.

    5. Hobnob is right in that you need to replan your loop. He is wrong however in suggesting you put the res before the blocks. The res should come last in the loop, before return to the pump. In your case I would suggest:
    Pump outlet --> window-side radiator barb, then from mobo-side radiator barb --> bottom barb of CPU blcok, then top barb of CPU block --> back NV68 barb, then front NV68 barb --> to res in top of case, then from res --> pump inlet.
     
  6. scotty6435

    scotty6435 What's a Dremel?

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    Nexxo once again solves all problems in a single post :)

    [/suck ass mode]

    :hehe:
     
  7. XUntitled

    XUntitled What's a Dremel?

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    Resized the picks, sorry.

    Don't have much time to post but, heres some quick info.

    Tubing is 5/8" OD - LINK

    I'll look into a res... there main problem is I'm out of bay slots to put one in. The slot the fill and bleed kits in has wires being hidden in them. Guess I'd have to mod it onto the bottom.

    As far as why I set up the loop the way I did... I went off by what swifttech's manual recommended. LINK

    Thanks for your help guys. And don't be to hard... we all have to learn ^_^ (I'm just happy that up to this point I haven't had any problems, like leaks and stuff of that sort!)
     
  8. slater

    slater Mummy Says Im Special

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    Well the first thing i would do is get hold of some 1/8th" wall tubing (3/4"od) that will help alot.

    slater..
     
  9. jaguarking11

    jaguarking11 Peterbilt-strong

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    Well In my system I use some tube I found at the local home depot. Its 1/2id tubing and has extremly thick walls. I dont have a single kink in it as its rather hard to kink that tube. Look for profesional grade tubing and give it a try, and it also costs a hellovallot les than the stuff you liked us to. I payed about 7bux for 15feet of the stuff.

    Also the color of the water. Did you die it? Or is did you overdue it with the water wetter? If you overdid it with the water wetter it will hurt your plastic parts as that stuff is agressive.
     
  10. iggy

    iggy Minimodder

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    his tubing would appearto be tygon 3603, if we look at the pics.

    where did you get it where it was actually cheap???
     
  11. biff

    biff What's a Dremel?

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    How about something like this. Take a look at the pics at the bottom of the page.
     
  12. Nexxo

    Nexxo * Prefab Sprout – The King of Rock 'n' Roll

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    Thanks! :thumb: That makes it a bit easier to look at.

    Any room in the middle of the top panel?

    Read the rules... then break them. :) Trust me, the way I proposed will work much better.

    R-3603 comes in two different wall thicknesses: 1.5mm (1/16th") and 3mm (1/8th"). He has the former, but he needs the latter.

    I do not think they will have the structural rigidity to smooth out his kinks. Getting thicker walled tubing and redoing the loop is his best bet.
     
  13. XUntitled

    XUntitled What's a Dremel?

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    [​IMG]

    Thats the top.. no room =\ Like I said, every bay is full. I had to even hack apart the front of the case to make the rad and pump fit there. Its a Chenming 601 if your wondering. Thats a mid tower.. I've been thinking about upgrading to a bigger Chenming DA-01SLD Full Tower but then I'd have to recut the side panel and meh I just don't have time for it atm.

    So there isn't room for the res at the top... wouldn't that be a problem though putting it on the bottom? Shouldn't it be the highest point in the loop?

    Thanks for your help guys, im going to look at Home Depot and such and see if I can find some better tubing to start off with.
     
  14. Leeum

    Leeum What's a Dremel?

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    Tygon is one of if not the best tubing you can buy, what gives you the impression it isn't very good? :p You just need to order it in the correct size. For a reservoir i'd consider something like a Criticool Waterplant which you could mount in the top of the case for easy filling and for the air ;)
     
  15. biff

    biff What's a Dremel?

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    Two ways to look at this... As long as the in and out tubes are submerged in the res then the water will not overflow the top. But if there is a small leak somewhere in the system it will allow the water to drain into the sump and overflow it. But if there is indeed that small leak in your system then putting the res at the highest point will increase pressure the system and cause water to leak. So if your WC system has no leaks then you wont have any leaks... strangely this seems to make sense.



    It's by no means a miracle product or anything but they claim it will unkink kinked hoses. I'm just getting my WC system ready to go and I put some on my tubing and it seems to do it's job reasonably well, but the stuff I'm using is supposed to be for 5/8"OD tubing. I'm using 5/8"ID, 3/4"OD because I can't find any 7/8" OD hence why I'm using this spiral stuff. Ultimately what you're suggesting seems to be the best solution but this coil stuff might do in a pinch... geddit? :D
     
  16. biff

    biff What's a Dremel?

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    I thought I'd show what this product can do just in case you think it will do what you need it to. Here's a couple pics of my tubing.

    Pic #1
    Pic #2

    The first pic shows the condition of what the tubing was like when it was bought and you can see a bit of the tube with the spiral stuff on. The second pic shows how tight the tubing will bend before it kinks. The smaller loop is 2" radius bend in 3/4" tubing (5/8" ID) using Home Depot variety vinyl tubing.

    To all those using Tygon... I realize this is vinyl tubing which is usually not so good at tight bends but I can bend 3/4" into a 2" radius using this spiral stuff, how tight can Tygon tubing bend? Just wondering if its worth tracking some down.
     
  17. XUntitled

    XUntitled What's a Dremel?

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    intresting... maybe i'll pick some up. as far the quality of tygon goes, the tygon tubing off frozencpu bents just as much as the cheap tubing off frozencpu. really no difference in my system. I was using the cheap stuff, but then 'upgraded' to the tygon to see if it'd help at all. it didn't... BUT thats probably because its thin walled and thick walled, like its been pointed out in the thread.
     
  18. biff

    biff What's a Dremel?

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    I dont know if kinks would develop over time as did in your setup, I just put the coil on, made a tight bend and then took a pic. But the stuff is cheap and you dont have to take apart your system to put it on so it might be a quick easy fix for you.
     
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