Guide Blowholes with hidden screws

thats real sweet

 

i set mine off with 1/4" (5mm) thick nuts, and probably another 5mm from end of threads to actual case ... and this let me use the fairly thick car style door edge moulding ( its about 5mm on each side thick) and a wire grill ... im guessing if you didnt trim the hole you would get maybe a 1 - 1.5mm gap ... just speculation though ...

 

I've read this a few times here. What does this actualy mean?

 

I was wondering about this myself. Just didnt feel like asking for a while yet

 

Countersinking is where you drill a larger hole on top of the smaller hole, but not all the way down, to hide the top of the screw.

Not a good explination, but the best I could come up with

Nice work, following in koolvin's footsteps I dare say

 

Countersinking actually creates a slope to the hole drilled. It allows countersunk screws, which have a triangular shaped head when viewed from the side, to sit in the hole and be flush with the surface. This means your fan will be closer to the steel/alu/whatever.

 

ouija
But I don't see how you could use that technique here, because then you'd see the screws anyway and the point of this mod is to hide them .

 

I believe you would have to drill the countersink holes in the fan. That way the sloped portion of the bolt sit in the countersunk hole and the fan would be flush with the case.

If you are using a fan grill, that could be difficult though right? I doubt there is a enough material on a fan grill to drill a big enough hole.

 

So how do you countersink holes ?

 

Devil_h@ck, the countersunk screws are used because they have a flat heat. The only thing needing countersunk if there is too much of a gap is the fan/gril

Deviate, some laser cut grills come countersunk.

sinizterguy, use a countersink. No seriously, it's an attachment for your drill and is cone shaped.

 

Oh, yes, of course .
Thx!

 

ok .. this was taken with a crappy 40$ web/still cam ... ill change it to a better one as soon as i can get some light in here and loose the flash.



the 80mm fan JUST barely fits between the psu and the dvdrom ... i had maybe 5mm of leeway here. it dropped her case temps about 5deg C. worth the hassle in my opinion.

 

looks kewl, i really like it. 2 questions do;

1) When the fan-guard go on the inside of the case, doesn't it create a gap between the metal and the fan ?
2) there's no room for rubbers (anti-vibration) ?

 

Yes, unless you have a wire grill which you can widen the holes of. Some laser cut grills have the holes already countersunk which means they sit almost flush with the case.

You can put rubber washers on with maybe a tiny gap.

 

1) i used auto door edge moulding to cover the edge of the hole, and bridge the gap made by the fan grill.

2) the moulding also kills as much vibration as is possible ... some will transfer because the bolts are fixed to the case and total isolation is not possible... but the moulding does kill a lot of the wind noise because of it's rounded edge.

 

apoxy resin

I think I said this on a different forum when ouija posted this guide but... it should be noted that it is a bad idea to mix up too much resin in one go becasue of the heat it generates - my grandad made a bucketful once and it melted the bucket (we're not talking plastic here, but steel!)

 

Re: apoxy resin

it melted the steel bucket ?

 

I use JB weld for my mounts now. Oh, and IMO using moulding on the blowhole would defeat the purpose. When done properly, a laser cut grill will sit flush against the inside of the case panel and appear almost seamless.

 

Re: Re: apoxy resin

yup!

 

those holes look great

auto door edge moulding please enlight me, not only i am dutch my dictionairy isn't great either. Some kind of rubber i guess that you see on cars

Can't you glue those rubber screws on it
(that anti-vibrating stuff) Then some small rubber band to make a completely isolated rubber/case connection ?