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Cooling Custom Waterblock Swiftech Mcx 462 Hlp Please!

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by r3Q, 19 Sep 2002.

  1. r3Q

    r3Q Minimodder

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    i am a good cad\3dmodler, and i was gonna machiene this onto the BOTTOM of the swiftech mcx 462 heatsink, and i wanna kno if it would be efficiant, or is there a better way of doing it. i got the large copper mcx, with the big badass fan on it. if my pump died, it would slow down the overheating process for my comp to turn off gently (without smokin if ya kno what i mean =D ) so are there any improvements i can make on this badass? like fins over the middle of the channels where the most heat will be located? well, tell me whatcha think. thx.

    [​IMG]

    and that is supposed to say .3 DEEP (not .5 thick lol, sorry bout that )

    THATS INCHES BTW

    [​IMG]
    (i gotta make the size of the model the 'inside' square (i gotta measure it) so i can machiene into that little part

    one more thing. im gonna cut this- and i dont know what thickness tubing i got. its pretty thick stuff, and its an AQUASTEATH kit, im just changin the RAD to a better one i aquired, and the waterblock to this badass (when i finsih it) what tap\die should i use, and what fittings? i dnno, thx LOTS!
     
    Last edited: 19 Sep 2002
  2. Haddy

    Haddy World Domination

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    u sure the base is thick enough to be cut up? i would just get a fresh block of copper and go from there.....

    main thing is to keep the channel size in proportion to the barbs that u use...if ur channels are to small u get horrible flow and back presure.....nothing with the block looks too bad....no 90degree angles....lots of surface space.....plus it shouldnt be that hard to machine....i say give it a shot :rock:
     
  3. Jamie

    Jamie ex-Bit-Tech code junkie

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    You have to remember that the helicoidal wotsit pins penetrate into the base a little bit so that reduces your depth.
     
  4. r3Q

    r3Q Minimodder

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    its gonna end up being like this

    |||||||||||||
    ======= <- heatsink copper (machiened .3" deep)
    ________
    ________ <- coper block (machiened like .3 " deep)

    kinda like a sandwitch ya kno? so ill solder it together in the middle so its got a .6" deep channel in it. that SHOULD be good right? ill model a pic of it tonight. im not sure how big my tubes are yet, so i dont have the fittings (thats why the ends STOP, so i can drill/tap the fittings)

    any othor thoughts?

    what about cooling?? will there be better temps this way as an added bonus to the heatsink on top?
     
  5. TiTch

    TiTch h2o cooled

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    I hear this statement time and time again

    On a water system the pump is normally the most reliable componant, it is definately better than the fan on a heat called system. There are many aquatic pumps running 24/7 for 10 - 15 years like on my stepfathers tank.

    Therefore think about cooling. I have two main observations to make with the design, first is weight. swifties are very heavy blocks which you are extending in height and weight. You do need to consider supporting the back of your mobo or bolt it directly to the tray. Secondly, having air cooling on a waterblock has mainly been done where you have poor flow or radiators. With a desent heatercore and pump it will give very limmited benifits. If you can machine well then I would inverst your efforts into designing a great block. The maze2 design creates laminar flow, smooth flowing layers. This create hot spots on the inside of the turns. The best flow is a turbulant flow. Look at the TC4 or even better the atlantis. That has a turbulator above the core, high velocity flow, all the things you are looking for.

    Unlike air cooling where big lumps of copper help, with watercooling a well designed small block like the gemini can thrash the bigger competition.

    I would therefore say, think flow, think velocity and think turbulance. Worry about what the water does and not pumps or backups.:naughty:

    Sorry for the leacture, but I hope it gives you some ideas.
     
  6. Coolrunnin

    Coolrunnin What's a Dremel?

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    r3Q m8, if you are going to machine a w/b then just ditch the hsf altogther. If, for some reason, your pump did fail you get PLENTY of time to realise and turn the system off.. or just start it up ;)

    To give you an example - a couple of nights ago I turned on my rig, overclocking it a little ;) , and booted into XPpro, overclocked my vid card, started 3dmark and left it up to the nature test (about 10 mins of pwr on) - Then I suddenly realised I'd been a muppet and forgotten to turn the pump back on after doing some maintenance on the cooling system the previous day :eeek: !

    In a wild panic I brought up the dashboard of MBM5 to reveal the shocking truth. -

    despite me having only the natural circulation of the coolant and the fans running the chip only got to 35C!!!! (xp2000@1872 1.85v) I just switched the pump on and didn't even have to shut down. :hip:

    In short W/c doesn't need any 'help' from a piggyback cooler :rock:
     
  7. r3Q

    r3Q Minimodder

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    well thx alot guys. got any links for me about those awesome litttle coolers? i gotta improve the design if im gonna have a block like that. thanks! just drop some links for the best reviews\products for me! THANKS AGAIN!
     
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