Discussion in 'Modding' started by ch424, 23 Jun 2006.
Nice mate - I agree, the buzzer is a bit of a wast of time. Does the knob still go on that?
Its a very good project, good work
Can i have the source code of the project, please?
My mail address is: dogukanhaz#at#gmail.com
(sorry for my poor English)
I am having problems getting my pic programmed. I am using winpic 800 and this programmer http://www.instructables.com/id/EWF5MO717GEWT14B3B/ .
I am using the firmware at the beginng of this thread along with the settings posted there too. The chip get up to 98% programmed and then gives me a verifying address 0x00000 error. I have never done any pic programming before so any help would be greatly appreciated.
may i know wut is BL+ (pad) , BL- (pad), and RV2 4k7 Preset??
edit:found out already... but can i just leave BL+ and B- like that?
means not connecting to anything but directly to the LCD itself??
Where can i get the PIC 18f2550 and shipped it to Malaysia?
i cant find it here...
and about the rotary encoder, is it ok if i dont use it?
can i have the circuit diagram of the controller with just the simplest function (just to enable the LCD to be able to communicate with LCD Smartie and without additional things like rotary encoder, buzzer and other irrelevant things?)
i m not that pro in these, so i dunno which component can be removed..
I have designed a board with ExpressPCB it is two boards on one. For $51 www.expresspcb.com will make three boards and you will end up with six. I'm just not sure how to post a file.
I added a 5v pin for the encoder so you can use an optical encoder if you want to. I also added an extra header for the usb to connect it directly to your motherboard.
If anyone could tell me how to post the file I will. I would also like someone to double check my work (4 eyes are better than 2) before I order a few boards.
If you cannot find long pin headers. I have use tinned copper wire. Just make sure you stretch it first by useing a set of pliers or vice and pulling the reel so that it is straigtht. Then cut suitable lengths as required. I tend to solder the outer two items first and then thread the other items as required.
i have one question: can you shift betwen screens without encoder
Sorry about my English
Hello again guys!
Right now i am implementing this USB device with 4x20 OLED screen into my HTPC (Home Theater PC) project, and i have question (maybe stupid one):
Is there a way to somehow attach couple of buttons instead of rotary encoder. Like 4 buttons for play, stop, forward back? Excuse me if i am way off with this idea, i am not experienced with how rotary encoders technicaly work.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions and ideas!
is it possible to make a usb controller for a graphic display?
Hazar: will send it in a minute
Brianmy: Read the thread, someone else had the same problem and got it fixed.
peowyong - BL+ and BL- are for the BackLight in the LCD. You can buy the PIC18F2550 direct from Microchip at http://buy.microchip.com Yes, you can ignore the rotary encoder.
HYTEC - thanks! I'll host it for you - reply to the email I sent.
gsila - yes, you can, but it has to be on a timer in the software, or using buttons:
Latvian3Dman: yes, you can use buttons instead. Use this firmware instead, and just use the common ground plus three signals, one for each of the buttons. Sorry, it only gives 3 buttons not 4 though.
dan-ere-07: No, sorry.
CH424-- THANKS Email sent
PCB Express file, thanks HYTEC!
oh, thats my idea gone hehe
ok then is it possible to have inputs from temp probes
or do you have to have them plugges into the mobo and have the temps displayed through the program
ch242 - thank You about buttons option. I wonder, cant some of those general purpose outputs be converted to inputs? Or LCDSmartie will not be able to use those anyway? More buttons could be sweet
ch242 can you control a backlight with this controller or i need a trimmer
(my English sux)
this looks interesting, did you do the schmatics yourself?
Another thing: winamp plugin spectrum analyzer runs very slow. I have 4x20 OLED screen, so there is virtualy no screen inertia, problem is something else. I wonder, is spectrum slow because USB addon, or directly parallel connection to LPT gives the same slow spectrum (can not test direct to LPT myself right now)?
Would appreciate other people experiences about this issue and maybe some suggestions?
For Backlight control, try this:
Use RB7 instead "PIN LPT"
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