Thank you...thank you... thank you my modding friends Update!!! Hmm...vacation is almost over and spent the last few days modding the M8. After some brainstorming about the red line across the case, I have made this update. Started again with a lot of red acrylic For the sides (pedestal) I first sawn the transparant acrylic and endorsed the fanholes Drilled holes for the fretsaw Also marked the red acrylic And drilled holes Again some sawing. The red result On the corners I also drilled holes for the standoff's Placed some standoff's on existing thread And placed the orginal back Transparent acrylic also sawn Placed on the red acrylic. And made the transparent acrylic black Marked/ sawn the orginal cover Because I used the standoff's on the covers, I also needed to adjust to the originals from the frame. Before: Standoff's After: Placed everything back Btw. the aluminium edges will be painted black I also want the red line in the front of the pedestal ... with a slot for the Blu-ray. Orginal cover marked and sawn. Made this the same way as the side panels Total shot Sawn a transparent acrylic plate for the bottom of the pedestal Where a red glow underneath the case comes from later on. After a good tip from my friends from TFoM I've also changed something in the front. The HDD coolers were to shiny, so I applied some black transparent acrylic. Better like this...only need some leds Need to look what kind of leds I'm gonna use. Last but not least the back, lol, yes the back is also important. Target is just to mod as much as possible, but nevertheless that the M8 is still recognizable. So sawn a new piece of red acrylic and marked more holes and squares. Made the same shape transparent acrylic And it's black again For the 5 air outlets I have used the Caselabs mesh (acrylic edges will be polished) Adjusted the original 140 mm fanholes. Again with red, black and mesh. Total shot Hope you like this update so far, maybe this weekend more updates about the internal
Thanks you guys...and I knew You would like the Danbo pic Update!!! Target is as good as reached this holiday. Connecting all solid acrylic tubing. Have taken some extra pics t, so a lot of pictures and little words To begin, I made a aluminum plate to support the angled mobo tray containing a slot for cables etc. Marked 2 holes above the mobo for the in\ outlet CPU. Cut a plate red acrylic with 2 holes in it Fitting. And cut the right sizes acrylic tubes. Also connected all other tubes. 240 rad placed and marked the holes downwards. Made the link to the other side. CPU outlet goes into the reservoir. Inlet CPU comes from below the pedestal, in which a solid tube in the center of the 2 reservoirs is running. From the left reservoir is a tube running to the pumps (2x MCP355 with EK-DCC Dual top V.2) Attach the pump to the HDD cage. Inlet pump Outlet goes down to..... The 240 radiator Outlet rad goes down again. From the HDD there is also going a tube downwards. Using later on a fill port through the acrylic midplate Adjusted the piece horizontal red acrylic with the hole in it. That's it
Thumbs up if you came here for acrylic tubing! Oops.. Must be the youtube syndrome... Damn Kier, you just never stop being awesome in your mods, do you?
Update!!! Where were we .... the acrylic tubes where almost finished, now it's time to make some covers. First the CPU first connection, this is becoming exactly in the center of the two reservoirs The midplate, Here I have created the holes for the tubes and fill-ports. For the left 240 rad I have bent an aluminum cover and made it black. Cut a piece of red acrylic cut to the dimensions of the radiator. And past this black vinyl Besides the radiator there is a nice space for all wiring but I don't want to see the wires. Therefore a cover. Cut, bent and made it black. To hide the HDDs and a nice black background for the tubes, I cut a piece of aluminum and again made it black, also made a nice red acrylic roof. The earlier made red acrylic placed on the radiator. The cover for the wiring. One side complete. Gonna make both sides almost the same. So cut another piece of aluminum for the HDD cover. Made it black Again, a piece of red acrylic for the other radiator Then suddenly a package from.......Coolermaster With a box full of game gear in the colors of the Case Labs build.. Thank you Cooler Master Marco, Ruud and everyone who made this possible. The CM Storm Trigger Keyboard: •High durability gold-plated Cherry switches rated for over 50 million key strokes •Multi-media control keys for convenient sound control •5 macro keys with profile management •18K gold plated ultra low latency USB plugs •Anti-ghosting 6 key rollover •64KB on-board memory for profile storage •Storm tactics key for deactivation of Windows key •1000Hz driverless polling / 1ms response time •Two port enhanced USB 2.0 hub •Detachable wrist rest •Braided cable for durability •Non-slip rubber coating The CM Storm Sentinel Advance II: •200 - 8200 DPI tracking resolution •128 KB Sentinel-X TM Memory for profiles and macros •On the fly DPI adjustments (+/- 200 DPI) •As little as 1.5 mm lift-off distance •Up to 150 IPS – 3.8 m/s •125 Hz – 1000 Hz USB rate fine-tuning •5 profiles with 4 DPI setting each •8 programmable buttons •9 virtual buttons via button combinations •Right-hand Ergonomic Design •Customizable OLED logo •Customizable multi color LED light system •5 x 4.5g weight fine-tuning system The CM Storm Speed-RX: •Microscopic Synthetic Mesh for optimum precision •Smooth nano fibers for reduced drag and better comfort •Extra thick (5mm) soft rubber center piece for better ergonomics and endurance •Triple Layer heat bonding process for improved durability and prevent peeling •Grip coating on bottom side to keep the mousepad in place And last but not least, the CM Storm Sirus 5.1 gaming headset: •True 5.1 Surround Sound (4 high quality speakers on each side) •On-The-Fly Rear, Center, & Front speaker control for maximum sound customization (in USB mode only) •Interchangeable ear-cups, micro weave for breathable audio and leatherette for improved noise insulation •Dual gold-plated USB Connectors for improved signal quality •Extra long durable and flexible microphone arm with LED mute indicator So the ultimate gaming kit. Thanks again and complete review follows when everything is plugged in. I got a lot of questions about the acrylic tubes, how I make them fit. The acrylic tube is unfortunately with a tolerance, and unfortunately I rarely got the 12mm. The tube that I most of the time get is generally 12.23 mm. Unfortunately, this does not fit into a multi link Specs of the multilink C47 has no internal dimensions, therefore the C71 Step by step how I do this Tube with the tolerance Marked the tube and cut it with a junior saw. Both ends file straight. Removed a thin layer internally with a sharp knife My dremel extention tool, set to 8mm And this a few times around the tube. After some filing and measuring the right size Now you have a sharp edge on the side which is not very good for your o-rings in the multilink. The original BP links also have a slanted edge, so made this also. File a slanted edge with a small file. And ready is your custom made crystal link. To end this update a small teaser
