Ran out of 3/8" for the final run, wound up using a spare length of 1/4" and two spare fittings for the final segment.
Me same. All my blocks have 12mm nozzles except the hard disk which has the 3/8 fittings. I could get by without it really but my pump has 4 metre head and my rad half the pressure drop of a standard one so it evens out. Or... just buy an aquarium chiller. Was thinking about it today then I could chill the cpu and both GPU in summer... which leads onto next item... next item... condensation... specialtech sell anti-condensation tubing for people using chilled coolant.
At a guess? About two meters. As an idea; Get your hands on a hunk of Ethernet cable; Work out your distances using that. Then add 30% to account for miscuts, mistakes and kinking. I reccomend Ethernet cable because most people have a length of the stuff spare, could use almost anything really. Anything sharper than 180 degrees in seven inches will kink like a bitch, though, so be careful you don't place stuff too close together where possible. Angled fittings help resolve this by lessening the turn the tube has to make.
Im decided on the EK-KIT H3O - Supreme LT 360 EN kit going to buy from scan. This says its 2011 compatible whats this mean and what ID is the below tubing can make sense of it?
No! The Supreme LT kit includes the wimpier block and the DCP 2.2 pump that moves less water than a rats fart (0.5M max pumping height, if I remember correctly.). The Supreme HF kit might cost more, but it's worth it. That tubing is is 3/8" btw. In order to get 2011 compatability; you have to tear the block apart. Which is annoying.
Ok i cancelled from scan as I wasnt prepared to buy another £10 delivery once I have enough for a gpu block. Does the HF kit require any messing about?
No more than the LT kit. It's the same core of parts, just a better Pump & Block. All EK kits come with; Compression fittings, a good 3.3M of 3/8" ID tubing and up to three silent EK fans that move next to no air, but are completely silent at full whack, no angled or 90 degree fittings, though. Although I suppose standard straight fittings make more sense for compatibility. The thing that will piss you off, though, is changing the mounting plate. Both the LT and the HF have this issue at last check; you've got to take the entire CPU block apart, which is incredibly annoying. Keep Vaseline handy to keep the Oring in place. And do not tighten the block down until you're sure that the oring is in place, else you'll cut it in half and the block will spray water everywhere.
Hmmm I took my EK block apart a little while ago to change the injection plate and I don't remember it being half as scary to do as you make it out to be mate
Just going to wait out and buy proper good 2nd hand parts, think it would be more worthwhile, so if anyone has any let me know I will review new prices and decide.
If I bought a test bench, would my GPU tests decrease, if for example I had a 120mm or 140mm hovering over it? If so by how much on load?
The Supreme blocks come with 2011 screws that screw directly through to the built-in 2011 backplate(in the socket). You don't need to take it apart.
Depends on how cooperative the Oring is. Sometimes it'll pop out at the slightest provocation, sometimes it happily sits in the grove without any issues. AOE; Test Benches tend not to give much improved temps. If you plonked a Gentle Typhoon 1850 next to it; it'd probably decrease, but the flipside is; you'll get a lot more noise. Part of the use of a case is deadening the sound of GPU fans, CPU fans, Hard-drives and so on. A test-bench just doesn't have that.
