Scratch Build – In Progress Hypno-Toad Rebuild--April 2012 quick repair and refit.

What, no love for the EEL man?

Awesome work, man! I was wondering what you needed the pump measurements for!

 

I was saving credit for when I got to that part. Thanks- I thought you knew I had sinister plans?

@John - OK... That one just shot WAY over my head. I assume you don't mean real wild hogs? -Is it my fault for making a reference to a movie I didn't watch?

 

I had a feeling you did; I guess this shows we're a lot alike then, lol. Which is scary. One of me is probably enough sinister sickness and twisted deviance for the world! Two is a battalion. Three is an armada.

 

I tone myself way down for the forums, and there's a few armada's here on my side already. -I'm the tame one.

 

buddy Well done, I will keep my eyes on this good luck

 

Wazzup CK! I'm glad you like it.

 

The numbers were golden! Thanks AngelOD and EEL! I'll get some pics up when I'm free.

 

Sweet, man! I can't wait to see what coolness you're boiling up.

 

Me too. I never really came up with a design. I just have a vague mental image in my head.

 

Too cheap to buy a real top...


-The top LED stick for the face had to look a little better 'cuz it's more visible.
If I don't document what I'm doing now, some of you may try to kill me...

-A new tap, a lot of oil, and some hand turning on the drill press made some 8-32 threads for mounting.

-NOW! centering stuff on a rotary table... I used a countersink bit to center the hole on the rotary table under the bit. (I really do use that bit for everything.)

-After vising the table down, I can use the point to center the work. It seems simple, but with 'plank' on the table, I didn't have access to the center hole.

-First pass looks li-HEY! I MADE A BUNNY!

-There it is- The outer edge. I cut about a MM out each full turn, I had some work setting this up because of the long clamp screws. They fit about 1/8" under the chuck gears and were the same distance from the body.

-All cut.

-Here it is out and dusted off. I had to sand out the rough outer edges of the well. -Drill press bearings, milling, etc.

-I sanded the hole down to 600 grit last night, and voided the warranty on the Danger Den Pump this morning. (Shh! don't tell them!) My work is a tiny bit wooglie, but it's close enough to work, (and most importantly, not leak!)
Thanks AngelOD and EEL!

-I oiled the side here to see how close the top was.

-On the side, I've painted a breadboard and have cut out what I think I need for the chaser circuit. The backside is going to look like a rat's nest when I get done. I gotta' cover my wiring with something.


Support my support! Buy Danger Den stuffs!

They have plexi pump tops now too, so you don't have to go through the hell of drilling the inlet hole. I'm fearing that part...

 

By losing the spiral volute, you'll have a ****-ton of flow, but lose max head and pressure.

However, that is still pretty fracking cool. Did the same thing myself, need to install my own in Mithril as well...

 

Thanks. I figured I'd lose flowrate and pressure. I only hope it can push the coolant up to the res. I only need 1 1/2 feet of vertical lift. Even the flimsiest straight-shot centrifuge aquarium pump can do that.

My problem right now is how I will do that exaust port. Should I drill in from both ends and meet somewhere inside the block, Or run a straight shot from the front and risk blowout chipping in the impeller well?

(My threads must run translator software crazy. There's lots of big words and poor punctuation.)
and fragmented sentences.

 

Is the target area only two meters wide? And does the shaft lead directly to the reactor system? If so, a precise hit will start a chain reaction which should destroy the station. But only a precise hit will set off a chain reaction. The shaft is ray-shielded, so you'll have to use proton torpedoes.

Good question. I guess it depends on how good your bits are or how sharp, and the makeup of the material being drilled. You could drill from both ends, but if it's off even a slight bit, You'll get weird flow resistance (obviously). Do you use a cutting fluid while drilling? I'd also do the obvious usual stuff like drilling slow, etc.

 

Gawd! The full quote even...I knew I'd regret the wording.
This stuff is thick. You MUST use water with the cut. The tricky part with the straight shot is when the bit comes out the side of the impeller hole. The flutes can grab too much material and crack everything.

I'm thinking I'll run the bit close to the edge, and drill out a trough on the impeller side.
Hitting the target here will be hard too. At least no one will be shooting at me.

 

Heh heh...you set 'em up and I'll knock 'em down!

Yeah, sounds good. You know what your equipment can do, so it's a good call. Drill close to the wall most of the way through, then burr out a larger hole on the other end would be great. Maybe even sand it down to a smooth taper or something. Either way, it'd make a great experiment to see what the difference would be with flow versus pressure, etc. Moddin's fun!

 

I opted for shotgun. It looks OK so far. I gotta hand grind the intake out a bit.

 

Sweet. Can't wait to see her.

 

man... You should try to sell spare junk laying around and buy yourself an x2 sometime. I saw one for 380$ shipped(new!) and was going to send you link but somebody bought it

anyways thats some damn good work for a drillpress

regards

 

You didn't miss much of a movie. Cost more to rent than it did to make! You just needs to stay in more and suffer what DirectTV throws at you. Wait, better yet, turn off the TV and work on mods. You are really doing well with this one.
John

 

Thanks guys!
@Teyber - That would be cool, but I have a small problem with where I would put it. The drill press tucks under a table at least. It's really bad now because I have a spare dishwasher, oven, lawn mower, and car in the garage. (And 3 spare toilets behind the garage.:hehe)
@John - I turned the TV off years ago. TV is like a monkey. It sits in the corner and tries to fling cr*p at you.