Hey all, I've decided that I'm going to attempt to build a computer (first timer). I'm not going for an all out gaming computer but I would like to be able to play games at high settings or to just simply have several applications going and not have any lag. I have not bought anything yet but have chosen some parts and would just like some opinions or for you to let me know if I have made a mistake (especially compatibility issues). Here's what I have picked out: CPU/Processor: Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor. Memory: CORSAIR XMS3 DHX TW3X4G1600C9DHX 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Video Card: XFX GX260NADBF GeForce GTX 260 Black Edition Core 216 896MB 448-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card Motherboard: ASUS P6T6 WS Revolution LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM Cooling: Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme Optical drive: haven't picked out yet Operating system: probably 64 bit Vista I'm not sure about what to get for my power supply and my chassis. So, advice on that would be great as well. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Nick
depends on ur budget, but since u going all out on the rigg: u got the perfect specs inside the only thing i would recomend would be to go tri-channel, forget about dual channel on that rigg For the case depends on what u looking for : Air/Liquid Cooling, when u got that in ur mind u can go ahead and keep looking if u going air maybe the most populars atm are the Antec cases or the Cooler Master the HAF 932 is nice for cooling, but somehow a vacuum cleaner, the 830 Stacker is nice, or the 840 or u can go with the new sniper case, looks somehow nice as regards PSU go for a good brand 850W-950W since it may last for future rigg/upgrade Recomended Brands : Corsair, OCZ, Ultra, Antec, Cooler Master, etc etc just my 2p
620W should be enough for your system if you don't SLI. I recommend the Corsair HX620. 5 year warranty, modular cable (great to improve case air flow), high quality component used. If you go with Antec, go with the Antec Neo Power HE, the rest is crap (in quality). Antec PSU changed, and I learned the hard way with 4 PSU's from them (different models) :<
Depending on your budget I would scrap the whole thing and get a cheaper rig like this: Q6600 2x2GB G.Skill Asus P5Q Pro P45 Corsair HX620 PSU The hard drive, cooler, and graphics card are all solid choices. For an optical drive pretty much anything will suffice as long as it works (I'd recommend SATA though). On the case front.... an Antec P182, or if you want to stretch and get something more expensive you could look at Lian Li.
The only thing to be done that's really glaring is going with a tri-channel RAM kit instead of a dual-channel one. That being said, maximum and ideal budget numbers would really help (as well as what resolution monitor you're running). - Diosjenin -
Yyyeeaaa I didn't even that one. Get 6GB triple channel DDR3 Corsair RAM, the CPU is designed for this setup and it should be followed, 'cause I don't even think you'll get dual channel with the CPU (I mean I don't think it supports it, so it will act as just 2 RAM stick, like if you put 1 RAM stick on a dual channel support system). Out of topic: You know every time my eye passes on "WD1001FALS', I read it as "WD1001FAILS" hehe...
No no, Core i7 it supports dual channel, just as any decently modern non-Core i7 CPU will support dual or single-channel RAM configurations (e.g. it's entirely possible to just put one stick of RAM into a motherboard/CPU combo designed for dual-channel setups) - it's just that using the maximum number of channels available is always better for performance on some level or another, and it should absolutely be used to its full extent. - Diosjenin -
Thanks for the suggestions. For my budget, I do not want to exceed $2000 but would like to be around $1500ish. Is a 22" screen and 1680 x 1050 a good size and resolution? Maybe you could give me a suggestion on that as well. What is meant by a tri-channel ram kit (sorry for my noobness)? Nick
1) Clarification - do you not actually have a monitor yet? Are there any other peripherals (especially mouse, keyboard, headphones/speakers/etc.) that you don't have that you're looking to get as well? 2) Tri-channel RAM kit refers basically to the number of RAM sticks included in the kit (in this case, three). The RAM performance difference between single-, dual-, and triple-channel refers to the number of sticks of RAM that the processor can access at once, which increases the amount of data that the processor can move in and out of the RAM at once. Core i7 is the first commercial processor to support triple-channel - i.e. three sticks of RAM being used simultaneously. All other processors and motherboards currently on the market will support dual-channel. - Diosjenin -
I don't have a monitor yet. As far as other peripherals, some I have and some I still need but I don't really have any questions about that. Although, I'm always open for advice. Will the motherboard I chose support tri-channel? Nick
It will support tri-channel, yes, but then again, any and every board (thus far) that is designed for Core i7 will also support tri-channel. The bigger issue at hand is whether or not you should base your computer around a Core i7 platform at all. It's great for raw speed and for upgrades, as it's currently the fastest and most versatile platform around. But with a budget in the $1500-2000 range, it might be better to relegate yourself to a Core 2-based system. Let me see if I can come up with a decent configuration. While I'm building it - do you have a decent set of headphones/speakers already or are you looking to get some (or not)? - Diosjenin -
Alright - here we go... Central Components: CPU: Intel Core i7 920 - $289 MB: Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD4P - $260, $20 MIR RAM: OCZ Platinum 3x2GB DDR3-1600 CAS7 - $181 GPU: XFX GeForce GTX260-216 Black Edition - $275, $25 MIR HDD: Samsung SpinPoint F1 1TB - $95 Heatsink/Fan: Noctua NH-C12P plus the free Core i7 SecuFirm 2 mounting kit - $65 ODD: ASUS DVD+RW DRW-2014L1T OEM - $28 PSU: Enermax Modu82+ 625W - $160, $50 MIR Case: Lian-Li PC-7B Plus II - $80 OS: Microsoft Vista Home Premium SP1 64-bit - $100 Monitor: Gateway HD2200 22", 1680x1050 - $195 Total: $1729, $95 MIR = $1634 Alternative Components: CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 - $190 (saves $99) MB: EVGA nForce 750i 123-YW-E175-A1 - $180, $30 MIR (saves $80 on the board and an additional $10 on the MIR) RAM: Patriot 2x2GB DDR2-800 CAS4 Extreme Performance - $53, $20 MIR (saves $128 on the RAM and an additional $20 via the MIR) Heatsink/Fan: Xigmatek HDT-S1284EE plus 3.5g of Arctic Silver 5 - $46 (saves $19) Case: Cooler Master RC-690-KNN1-GP - $70 (saves $10) Total Savings: $336, $30 MIR Total Cost with Alternate Components: $1393, $125 MIR = $1268 Optional Components: Sound Card: ASUS Xonar D1 - $90 - Diosjenin -
I will probably end up getting some better speakers. I won't need headphones. I had thought about whether or not to get the core i7 or the core 2 (i.e., Q6600). The reason I picked i7 is because it's a newer cpu and I wasn't sure if anything older would soon be outdated (such as core 2 cpu's) but I'm open to any ideas that will give me a speedy and good overall performing computer within my budget.
Wow. Thanks for rounding all that up for me. Now I'm gonna rattle off some questions. How much of a performance difference is there between the the more expensive newer components vs. the alternate components? Are they just more expensive because they are new and open for upgrades? Is it worth the extra $400 or so difference? How does your components compare to my original components? Thanks, Nick
Not a problem. And actually, I forgot that a second GTX260 is perfectly valid optional component with either configuration, so if you want some extra graphics power right off the bat, feel free to tack that on. Performance Difference: In general applications (everything from word processing to 3D rendering), the Core i7 platform is generally 20-30% faster than the Core 2 Quad platform. In the vast majority of gaming scenarios, that margin narrows to 10% or less. However, it's been proven that the lower disparity in gaming is due to the vast majority of games being bottlenecked in performance by the graphics cards, rather than the processor. When using higher-end graphics setups (like two GTX260s or above), the performance increase from using Core i7 quickly approaches the 20-30% difference seen in every other usage scenario. Expense: A large part of the Core i7 platform's high price is dictated by the relative freshness of the components involved. The Core i7 is brand new, the Core 2 Quad has been out for a good two years plus. The X58 chipset is brand new (and very high-end at that), whereas the X48/P45/etc. chipsets have been out for a good two years plus. DDR3 RAM is just starting to be adopted in large numbers, whereas DDR2 RAM has been out for so long that prices have hit rock bottom. (If you choose to go the Core 2 Quad route, you might even want to throw 8GB of RAM in your system. Really, at those prices, why not?). Worth the Difference: It largely depends on how much you'll want to upgrade the platform later down the road. The Core 2 Quad configuration, aside from RAM or hard drive capacity upgrades or a second graphics card, is as high end as it will ever get. No new Core 2 processors will probably ever be released (certainly none that perform better than those available now). Forget about upgrading to DDR3 (though it should be noted that faster RAM doesn't make a huge difference on a Core 2 platform anyway). On the other hand, new Core i7 processors (or other processors based on the new LGA1366 socket design) will be available for several years to come. DDR3 RAM is the new standard and will be for at least two to three years. And X58-based motherboards are entirely capable of supporting both SLI and CrossFire - in the case of the GA-EX58-UD4P, even Tri-SLI is supported (although you'd want a more beefy PSU for that). Whether or not you'd rather upgrade your system versus build a whole new system in two/three/four years is entirely your call. For sheer versatility, the Core i7 platform can't be beat. Whether that versatility is worth the extra ~$350 cost of entry is up to you. Component Comparison: The differences are largely in the details. Aside from a top-notch triple channel kit of RAM versus the excellent dual-channel kit you picked out, differences are minimal. The motherboard offers basically the same performance for the same price, but the manufacturer is slightly (slightly) more reputable. The hard drives are the same capacity, but the F1 is slightly faster than the Caviar Black. The NH-C12P gives basically the same performance as a TRUE, but the noise generated is a few decibels easier on the ears. That sort of thing. - Diosjenin -
How much do you think a computer like this or any similar performing computer would cost if you got it from Dell or HP or any computer manufactuer? Just curious as to how much is saved (if any) by building it on your own.
Well it could be cheaper, but you must remember: - They pack the system with crapware (as you are not getting it form the buisness section, which will make your system a bargain) - Quality is simply not there. Normal low-end RAM, motherboard, etc... - Over-priced video card update - Poor sound card (on board or X-Fi) - Ordinary motherboard, HDD, etc.. - Descent PSU, nothing special - And loss of warranty and warranty issues. for example, custom build system you can hardware with 5 year warranties ,lifetime, or even 3 year warranty. For Dell/HP, etc.. it's 1 year and you must pay extra for up to 3 years (4 years max). And let's say your optical drive brakes. Because you don't have onsite service, you have to ship back the computer itself (not monitor, keyboard, mouse that you keep) and have it back in a week. Then custom build, you can still use your computer while you RMA that part, or simply buy a new one because it's cheap. So you have ups and downs. When I build a computer for someone that doesn't need anything special, as he/she is a average user (family or friends) I just say get a Dell or something. As if there is anything they can contact them to get it fixed and not you while you are busy.
Honestly? You can't really get a configuration like this from an OEM. I mean, you can try Cyberpower if you want, but they probably don't deal in half the parts that I've laid out, and anybody else (HP/Voodoo, Dell XPS, Alienware, Falcon Northwest, etc., etc.) commands a very high price premium. Money is always always always saved by building a (gaming) computer yourself. How much is saved (and whether or not the money is saved up-front) can vary, but it's usually on the order of $100 minimum or far more - like closer to $300. A lot of that is via paying for a warranty - which can restrict you from doing your own repairs, overclocking your components, etc. - plus you have to deal with all the bloatware/crapware/etc. that an OEM will put on your system, etc.... the list goes on. - Diosjenin -
I agree with some of what Diosjenin wrote, but heres my list. I'm imagining his budget at $2000: CPU: Intel Core i7 920 - $294.99 Motherboard: ASUS P6T6 - $359.99 RAM: CORSAIR XMS3 6GB (3 x 2GB) DDR3-1600 - $179.00 PSU: CORSAIR 620HX - $147.00 ($30 rebate) Video Card: EVGA GTX 285 - $330 ($30 rebate) Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DX - $89.99 Hard Drive: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F1 1TB - $94.99 Monitor: ASUS VH226H 1920x1080 21.5" - $199.99 Case: Lian-Li PC-7B plus II - $79.99 CD/DVD: Samsung 22x DVD Burner Freebies: Transcend 8GB SD Card (Free with the PSU), Call of Duty: World at War (Free with the Video Card) Total: $1,964.90 If you had to bring the price down, get rid of the sound card, then if you want it even lower, drop the motherboard down to the MSI X58 Platinum, which is $234.99. Next would probably be the video card down to an ATI 4870 1GB, preferably Sapphire or HIS ($234.99 and 244.99, repectively).
^^ The Corsair was my first choice as well, but the Enermax has 4x PCI-E 6+2-pin cables, which specifically lends itself well to a 2-card GPU setup. The Corsair has only 2x PCI-E cables, so SLI or Crossfire would require an unsightly (and potentially unstable) adapter setup. Also, I would shy away from a 1920x1080 monitor until game support is more widespread. That being said, I was unaware the GTX 285 was available for such a low price. It's certainly not that cheap on Newegg - cheapest there is $350 after rebate. If there is a GTX 285 around for that price anywhere, I might switch my recommendation over (although two of those would be more likely to cause the PSU to go belly-up than would two GTX 260-216s), but I certainly can't find it anywhere. - Diosjenin -
