Cooling *UPDATE* - New Pics - What would be a better way to...

cool my hot pentium 4 3.0 prescott.

Here's my hardware:
Thermaltake Tsunami Case
Danger Den Black Ice Pro
Danger Den Maze4 CPU Block
Danger Den Maze4 VGA Block (on Radeon 9800Pro)
Danger Den Fillport
Danger Den CSP-MAG 12v Pump
Zerex coolant mixed with distilled water
Arctic Silver 5

Here's a pic of the inside

Instead of that weak blue fan there is now a Sanyo Denki brushless fan in its place. This thing has great flow rate...

but I still get idle temps around 49-50C...What do you think I should do, because I know its possible to get this processor colder without the use of a peltier

 

Have you considered a bigger radiator, or even a second 120mm one?

 

a pump with a highier flow rate.......for the same size there is the Leing DDC i know that has a good flow rate and is as compact as the one you have

EDIT:
upon closer inspection a resivior might help your system ( i only noticed your lack of one when i took a second glance) maybe one of the Tank-O-Matic res's or any of these

EDIT 2:
i just noticed after looking again.....i have the same case.....so you could put another 120mm rad on the rear exhaust and attach one of the Tank-O-Matic res's to the back of the case (i didn't recognise it at first because you've put the HDD in the floppy cage and removed the HDD cage all together)

 

i basically do have a reservoir...it's from the T line to the top of my case. I'm using a fillport...


How would having a reservoir help my water/cpu temps?

I also tried mounting the radiator to the back of my case but it wouldn't really fit. I might have to play around with it.

But anyway, if I do decide to upgrade, where would be a good place to sell my pump and maybe a radiator (besides ebay of course). Any good forums that allow sell/trade?

 

a res will help because even though it is not activley cooling the water you will still radiate heat also you will have a far greater amount of water in your system therefor it will take longer to heat up and reduce its cooling effect but in the extra time taken the rad can keep on top of cooling the water down...i know what you mean about mounting it on the outside i hate those damn plastic brackets they give you and then not even the holes are 120mm apart they are some completley random distance) anyway hope this clears up what i meant.

EDIT: the T piece doesn't count because there isn't a constant inlet and outlet to it therefore the same water will probably just sit there most of the time and even if it does exchange it will only have the relativley small amount that is in the tube

 

reservoir and t-line doesn't matter. i would definitely reseat that cpu block. that's some horrible temps. i'd first, reseat the cpu block, putting only a THIN layer of AS5, then get a stronger fan for the rad. there's nothing wrong w/ the flow from a MAG. it could be that the GPU is dumping too much heat (possibly an ATI 9800?) so i'd run it w/o the gpu block and see what kind of temps you get. but i'm pretty sure, the T-line has nothing to do w/ the temps you're getting.

 

If anything, get a TDX or Storm block, or perhaps a Polarflo TT. I think the Maze4 would cause higher temps more than anything else.

 

Ignore most of the above, except kaotic504's advice to reseat the block; that makes sense.

Your pump is fine, your blocks are fine. If reseating your block doesn't help, you could do with upgrading your BIPro to a BIX, which should then be more than sufficient to cool that lot (I displace about 220W on a low-flow fan with mine). If that still doesn't work, think of a TDX or Storm, but I'd start with reseating the block and then upgrading the radiator first.

 

But anyway, if I do decide to upgrade, where would be a good place to sell my pump and maybe a radiator (besides ebay of course). Any good forums that allow sell/trade?..

If you spammed your way to 75 posts you could use our For sale & wanted forum

 

Is there a chance you could add a second rad where your 120mm is on the back of your case?

Adding a res never hurts although you may not see many gains from it either. Pumps like to have their inputs completely non-restricted for best performance. If you were to add one, removing that T line and puting the ress right at the pump would be the ideal location. Also I read somewhere that a T, even when passing straight through, is almost as restrictive as a 90° elbow. It sounds a little exagerated to me but thats just what I read. Again if its not right at the pump input then there is no point to a res, only to make bleeding the system easier.

 

A CSP MAg on 1/2" tubing is hardly going to feel restricted. Forget about second rads, second reservoirs (I mean, how pointless is that?!?). A T-line is hardly restrictive, and it is nothing compared to the pressure drop you get with a res (which is why it is the last thing in the loop before return to the pump!).

Look, don't overcomplicate things. The Thermaltake Tsunami is not exactly an easy breather. First run your system with both the door and bezel open to make sure that there is no airflow restriction there.

If that doesn't help, reseat the block. If you still have no joy, just swap your BIPro for a BIX and everything will be cool. Trust me.

 

Well, I did what you guys suggested and reseated my waterblocks...both of them. I had the take apart the whole computer and take out the mobo because when messing with it one of the nuts came off the back of one of the stems. I applied an even thin coat of AS5 to both CPU and GPU, shortened a couple of the tubes and hooked everything back up. I now how 2 powerful SanyoDenkis (one pushing air thru the radiator and one as an exhaust fan in the back). Well, on average, this dropped my CPU temps 2-3 degrees C depending on the ambience. I was idling at up to 50C, with 44C case temp yesterday. Now I'm at 47C CPU and 39C Case. I think one problem might actually be my pump. When I was refilling the loop I was watching the flow. The pump was having a hard time at first forcing the water up thru the CPU block, then there was a lot of air trapped between the CPU and GPU blocks, and just bad flow coming from the GPU block to the rad. I tilted the case all around and eventually worked most of the air bubbles out thru the T-line. There was a certain way I had the case tilted that seemed to work pretty good at bleeding the air out. It seems to flow alright now, but if you read what it said about the pump on dangerden.com, it says Maximum flow: 9 l/hr (143 GPH). That's not a lot compared to other water cooling system pumps.

What do you guys think about me getting a higher-flow pump and replacing the BI Pro with a BI Xtreme? Would the higher flow work better with the Xtreme? Thanks for all of the input.

 

Alright, well looks like I might wanna start spamming lol.

 

nnnnnnggg...

OK, first, Doomsayer, rated pump flow has nothing to do with what actually goes around your system. If your pump is rated at 143 GPH, that means it is 9 l per minute. In reality you will get much less than that, but if it makes you feel better, I get (glances at flow sensor readout) 1.73 l/min. at the moment on my dual Opteron 250 and Radeon 9800, cooled with one BIX. That's right, 220W with just one BIX. You have fewer Watts than that to get rid off, I'd say about 180W.

If your case is hot (and 39-44C is hot), the problem is ventilation, not flow, not blocks, not rad. FLOW IS NOT THE PROBLEM, OK?

As I said, it is likely that the ventilation slots in the case are too restrictive and the fans, no matter how powerful, are not sucking enough air throught the rad. Open the door, open the bezel (which you can do on a Tsunami), get a decent airhole in front of the rad, and see if you get a difference.

 

So Nexxo, ur suggesting I cut a hole in the front of the case...and maybe in the back also...?i feel plenty of air coming thru the radiator. I may want to invest in a shroud though. What do you think, big ass hole saw or a dremel?

 

What CFM rating do your fans actually have? Or else, what RPM?

OK, the scientific approach: the total wattage you need to lose is 109.2W for the CPU, and 54.4W for the Radeon = 163.6 Watts.

Testing on Overclockers.com reveals that at 0.5 GPM (1.8 l/min --I think this will be about your flow rate) the BIPro can shed about 464BTU with a 1649 RPM fan on it (a low-flow Panaflo is about 1700 rpm. Note how the fan diplaces 69CFM, but the actual flow through the rad is about half that: 30CFM). Now 464BTU x 0.29 = 134.56Watts. So you need a fan more powerful than 69CFM or 1700RPM to cool your system.

Don't go cutting up your case just yet. If you don't want to use more powerful fans, because it is simply too noisy, just get a BIX, and all your troubles should be over.

 

Running 12V I believe they're running at over 100CFM. I tried looking them up but they are not made anymore. the fans are huge. Anyway, running CS:Source with all details on high, i exited with my CPU @ 53C. They dropped back down to 47C after about 30 seconds.

EDIT: The part # for these fans are 109R1212H101 (Sanyo Denki DC Brushless)

 

Tell me what you think ok this radiator. It looks basically the same as the BIX, just cheaper...and it comes with a free shroud. It has the same dimensions and it says its heat dissipation is 790KCal/hr or 3134BTU/hr. That would work fine to cool my stuff.

Link: http://www.polarflo.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=124

 

i know its already been discussed but the best way to give a quick increase in air flow in the tsunami case is cut out those damn grates over the intake and exhaust (that was almost the first thing i did).....it also reduces noise (because you don't get the sound of air moving through it)

 

Not only does it look just like a BIX, but it has the exact same dimensions to the mm. I think it is a duck!