Scratch Build – In Progress Teybers Rotary Single Stage

It's all coming along excellently, but there's no way to tell if that thermometer is 12v, other than a guess that it probably is, but give us the brand & model number and google should find out!

So do you want to run it of 12v? If not, then what voltage did you want, and why?

oh, and 200psi, holy $hit

 

On the 2 leads for power, it says "12vdc" so i guess i answered my own question. I want it to be 120v ac, just like the compressor. No model number, as it was just made from somebody most likely.
http://www.under-the-ice.com/index.php?cPath=48&osCsid=8e70e4f1ca6a8a2086df7fac702d84cf

Haha yeah 200psig is a lot! i lot of people pressure test to 300psig but i think thats a bomb! i might go up to 250psi laters...

Thansk mate


Regards

 

I've found that rubber cement works well with large diameter tubing/hose. Of course, you have a little prep time, but plugging the ends well helps keep the kinks out and you can just cut the ends off after forming if you messed them up in the process. Or, you could also just use rubber plugs (the ones with the screws in them for a tight fit)

Looks like it will be a fun project!

 

thanks! Using a spring and bending around a mapp tank worked great. See the new DSH brazed on build.

thank you! glad i can help. Ask any questions you want.
I am very happy all the extra time i spent into taking so many pictures is being used by somebody


A couple pics. got a huge cylinder of Co2. I thought my nitrogen was huge! i swapped the 20cuft argon for the co2, and i got so much! the guy gave me a big tank and charged me 18$ for it. For size comparison that is a pretty large fire extinguisher...

And a couple vacuuming pics:



Also, fixed the bandsaw! the new blade is awsome... I found the size tip i need for this torch also. Might pick it up tuesday, but problably not till next friday or saturday... (dont' even need it on this build)

Regards

 

Really tough to pull a good vacuum on this planet. Everything works against it. I'm watching.
John

 

true, i have the equipment to do it however I am at about 1000 microns right now.

sorry forgot 1 pic. I crappy rendering sorry about the quality, but planning out the case. Won't start on case until phase change is completely done. Hoping to see frost sometime within the next week Will spent rest of today and tomorrow tripple evacing...

Regars

 

Lol @ the fan on your compressor. Looks like it could use a heatsink upgrade

 

That room likes like a diy wmd lab Make sure you triple check everything you do There's no info on the temp probe at the site but it does sound like it is meant for 12v Well i guess you probably want the temp probe on whenever the phase is on, even if the pc is off, so a small 120vac plug pack with 12vdc output would be the easiest. You can cut the input lead and connect it to the same place your compressor or fans or whatever takes 120vac from, so that you don't need another power lead.

The temperature display wouldn't use much power, if there's no info you can hook it up to 12v from a pc psu for example, and connect a multimeter in series on amps range, and you can find out the exact amps usage of the temp probe. Probably 500ma or less i'm guessing. You can then get a small plugpack that can deliver at least DOUBLE the amps required, and you'll have a cool running, long lasting psu setup. If there may be more accesories that need 12v, like more probes, fans, lights, etc, then also factor all this in when deciding how many amps the 12v pack will need to be!

 

rocket: lol vacuum pump gets hot! gets about 50c so i put a fan on it. Thing wasn't cheap at all(~450$ new, found it on sale for 250$).

Mvgusta:wmd?
Yeah i asked the buyer and its 12vdc... I have been looking around for a inverter but have found no luck. If you find a link id love it. 120v ac to 12v dc. i swear i can't find these bad boys. Google has done no help to me

Yeah i would most likely wire like that.

regards

 

Why not use a simple wall-wart for the adapter? Something like this

 

nice find rocket! im sure if i cut and stripped that cord it would have a 12v and a g?

I think moc is right, but we will have to see
Note: picture of final vacuum isn't working, but it was 158 microns

had a snowstorm in my garage

fixed bandsaw. Cutting a block of polyethlyene

Still have a ways to go hehe



a little insulation on the evap. Evap is flat but i gotta polish her up a bit

Insulated system with sleeving

again


Missing 1 book, but this for you walt


Sorry im in a rush. Regards

 

Yeah, usually at the end of the cord it has a metal tip like you find on most electrics. The outside of the barrel is the ground/neutral and then the inside is the positive.

 

That plug pack is fine, 1a should be plenty for even a few probes i'm guessing
Make sure you use a multimeter to check the polarity before you hook it all up, otherwise you may possibly blow the temp probe! If you don't have a multimeter, grab one, they don't cost much, basic ones can be had for like $10-20 around here, and you have nearly every other tool known to mankind so you might aswell
You could also cut an extension lead to connect the plug pack to the same place you hooked up the compressor's or fan's or whatever's 120vac, so you won't need another power point, you might just have to get a bigger terminal strip or just add a couple more. Unless you find a plugpack that isn't a wall adapter, but has it's own cord that you could cut, which is kind of a little neater.

You don't know what a wmd is? I'll let you google that one!

 

And some that aren't

 

i have a multimeter, a cheap one but it works

sorry for quick update, huge rush.
Garage pictures:


New bench with steel top. Storage underneath for cylinders/ tanks of refrigerant. Nails nearby to hang manifold/tubing No tools will be on this bench. I will keep this clean and it will be my "work" bench.


repainted and rebuilt workbench. Added new colomns from bench (mill weighs about 475 pound with vice and such)
Also, added 2 shelves for storing everything that is currently on the pool table.

The electrition is an idiot, he went to the wrong house

Regards

 

Teyber,

Is the drill press bolted down? It should be!

 

Look into using R152a, it's also known by it's CAS#75-37-6, AKA Difluoroethane
It works well in replacement for R12 or R134a.

It's more commonly known as 'Aeroduster 152' for $5 for a 12oz can.
I run it in my RV's AC, it was an old R12 system.

 

seems like a nice replacement, however -25c boiling point is a little to high for this unit. Id rather just use pure r290(propane).

Looks nice for a high capacity refrigerant however

Did you just recover and recharge? or did you tune for the different refrigerant?

Stuey: No atm

 

Lol Teyber I like how people point out the same safety considerations in every forum you post, maybe that oil incident makes people want to look out for you now . I look forward to seeing how this first attempt ends up.

 

Did you just recover and recharge? or did you tune for the different refrigerant?

I had to open up the system, the compressor was going bad, I took it to a shop and had them take out all the R12,
there was only 2 lbs left, but hey, no sense in venting it. Then I pulled apart everything and flushed it out with AC cleaning
solvent to get rid of the old mineral oil and other crud. The Orifice Tube was nearly clogged with gunk, the system was just
about to fail. I replaced it with the next bigger size and tweaked the low side pressure switch to close about 10PSI higher
than it did for R12. Put all new o-rings in and used modern PAG oil. The charge was nearly the same, about 30 oz, or 3 12oz
cans of R152a Aeroduster. I got a can popper that punches a hole in the side. I rented a vacuum pump and dried out the system
overnight, something a shop usually wont do. It runs nice and cold, even in Texas. It's been about 2 years since then, and I
haven't had to fool with it since.

The -25C might a be a problem if you're going for subzero CPU temps, you could use a pelt, but then that's a lot of extra heat to have to move through the system. Propane's something I'd not use as an indoor refrigerant, the difluoroethane's only slightly flammable. You get a slight flame from the nozzle with a lighter. (do this outdoors, the fluorine compounds produced are bad news)
not like what you'd get from propane. Then there's the problem of getting real propane, not some mix of butane and propane and god knows what else when you buy 'grill gas' . How do you deal with partial gas pressures when filling or reducing charge in your system?
That's one problem, with gas mixtures, different pressures bleed off at different rates.