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Hardware Hailea HC-500A Water Chiller Review

Discussion in 'Article Discussion' started by Lizard, 20 Jul 2010.

  1. etikka

    etikka What's a Dremel?

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    Hailea translates liberally to luke warm in Finnish :).
     
  2. bobwya

    bobwya Custom PC Migrant

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    Yeh till you die from the biocide and ethylene glycol :)
     
  3. aquatuning

    aquatuning What's a Dremel?

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  4. bobwya

    bobwya Custom PC Migrant

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    Hmmm interesting idea. Would that lower the temperature delta's between an idle and loaded system perhaps? Greater stability without increasing the risk of condensation problems ??!!
     
  5. OBCblackhawk

    OBCblackhawk What's a Dremel?

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    If you can produce a considerable delta( 5c+ considering you are likely cooling slightly below ambient) in the 2-3 seconds it takes the water to make a complete loop around the system.. Then sure adding a radiator would help but I think you would be hard pressed to do so even with a 980x and 4 GTX480's I think. 1kWh is roughly 3400BTU/h or ~.5C/sec for 1gal of water if my estimates are correct. Basically it would take a heck of a lot of heat for the radiator to be beneficial then you must consider how much the heat fluctuates between idle and 100% load. Also when the chiller pulls the temp down to say 3c below ambient then turns of the radiator will only act to assist in reheating the water. So basically adding a radiator into a chiller loop is stupid, as it would be far more energy efficient to just use radiators to begin with.

    also lower inlet temp, assuming you mean lower b/c the radiator cooled the water does not equal lower outlet temps. The Chiller is going to cool at 100% of its cooling capability until it reaches it's set temperature and shut off, unless it is overloaded; in which case the temperature would rise. Assuming this were like a home AC just because the return air temp is lower does not mean the discharge air is cooler than if the return air were 5 degrees higher. Which reminds me, setting the AC to a lower temp does not cool any faster than if it were set at your target temp.
     
  6. leexgx

    leexgx CPC hang out zone (i Fix pcs i do )

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    if the water coming from the system was still cooler then room temp then the rad would warm the water up as the air temp would be warmer and would work in revers and heat the rad up and the water (basically what the above user posted it be counter productive if the room is warmer then the loop to use an rad)

    better to use an large tank and set the chiller to room temp as that would prevent tank getting to warm and condensation forming or to cold would use more power and could make condensation
    or large insulated tank if your trying to keep below room temps, as that would keep an reserve of cooler water and take bit longer for the compressor to come on

    just do the same as you would with an norm loop your just replacing the RAD with an chiller (and the res with an Large tank so chiller does not go off on off on all the time)
    reserve/tank > chiller > pump > system > loop back

    Long term thougth an big rad 4x 120mm Fat rad is alot cheaper

    hate users who think setting the AV to 16c when it can only cool the room to 20c {room size e.g.} when on as it cant make the AC work any cooler then its Set BTU level (if you have an AC recommend for power and cost use set it to 22c as thats not to cold or to warm user pref really)
     
    Last edited: 24 Jul 2010
  7. KilpX

    KilpX What's a Dremel?

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    It looks a powerful piece, but actually looking for the one you guys called it "Monster" (1.650 W) apparently needs 2000/4000 L/H. Any Monster pump in mind?
     
  8. Supreem

    Supreem What's a Dremel?

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    I know this is a bit late in the game here...

    In this situation, Being into data center design myself professionally, I would think not... There are a lot of things to take into consideration, but mainly pressure on the couplings and heads and also whether or not the chiller could even function properly would be my largest concerns. I would avoid "daisy chaining" the racks, but preferably run it into a header pipe first to equalize the pressure, which in turns you'll need to know what the max load is per rack (which by max I mean only 80%). I would imagine you would want redundancy so it would have to have a loop header (just like we do in data centers). Watching the heat load would also need to be balanced to the valves from the header (assuming not all loads are the same). Booster pumps are possible without the header, but there's issues there too with the wear on the motor since the chiller AND the booster(s) would have to be sync'ed identically to the loads (difficult sometimes). I can think of one way to stop that issue though, but it would require a very well insulated reservoir and pumping out of those for each rack. (No matter the insulation, there will always be a measure of heat loss.)
     
  9. Dookie5OV

    Dookie5OV What's a Dremel?

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    Out of interest. Would a Swiftech MCP655 with an EK D5 X-TOP be powerful enough to pump the water into the room above? Namely the attic.
     
  10. skipper758

    skipper758 What's a Dremel?

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    Guys, following advices from this article, and of course lots and lots of additional reading, I finally managed to make it happen. I built a PC for FSX and X-plane, with water cooling and a Water Chiller. The results are fantastic... I get 15-17 degrees Celsius during extreme resolution game-play. The temp readings are similar for my CPU, my motherboard, my GPUs, and the PC case as well.
     
  11. Archangel35757

    Archangel35757 What's a Dremel?

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    hey guys, I realize I'm a late-comer to this discussion-- sorry to necromance this thread... but I read this article again recently as I've been kicking around the idea to convert my two workstations to liquid cooling. Using this water-chiller concept-- but I had also thought to add a large external reservoir to act as a thermal accumulator so as to try and keep the water-chiller unit from running continuously. I've made a detailed post over at Tom's Hardware (looking for help in designing the details of such a system):

    http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2091317/water-chiller-setup-multiple-gpus.html

    I'd like to cool multiple GPU's (3 per PC) and 4 PC's total with this kind of water-chiller setup.

    I want to create this setup within the next couple of months... any design guidance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!!
     
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