Nope, DC powered like every other LED. Looks good... you're attention to details is almost funny. I mean you're putting acrylic in areas that will never be seen except in a project log or the odd upgrade. Not that it's a bad thing... Glad to know you're satisfied with the LED color.
Perfectionist!!! man i love this, its what everymod should be, no bodges, no shortcuts, just pure modding with no hold-backs... its nice to see some-one doing it properly im glad your h2o loop works succesfully, and i hope it gives you some great temperatures keep moddin'
For some reason, the red acrylic just doesn't look right to me. It could be because of how obvious it is to see everything under it, but I think it might just be because of all the silver. I'm sure that once you get more red to put over the motherboard's backside, it will look just dandy, but I think it might look a little better if you painted the bays black. Maybe I just need more sleep though....
I am travelling a little bit more than usual lately. I have a few pics of the new setup I could post. I will probably start a new log sooner than later.
In my mind these machines are not unlike a classic HodRod. Just because the 1957 Chevy's hood and trunk lids are closed most of the time, doesn't mean that whats inside should not look good when you do open them. Yes, those laser LED's are just the ticket. Nice RED light and less wiring mess. I will only need to paint the bases of the units black and work-out there location.
Well dammit when you put it that way I have to deal with that area on my v2000 now. *shakes fist in rage* I'm going to be relying fairly heavily on LEDs for my lighting. But then again, UV is UV not like some red is pink. As I found out in science class today I'd ideally have a CCFL containing calcium gas which only emits 393, 397, and 423nm light (the first two are completely invisible, and 423 is in the darkest purples) but that's a different story. [/tangent] In any case, using LEDs over CCFLs really let you direct the light where it's wanted/needed which is of course a very useful thing. The trick is finding the right LEDs, like personally I'd ideally have ones that emit no visible light at all, entire UV, but those are rather hard to find, and I've yet to see a true yellow. Of course your red ones are a tad bit easier to come by in a normal variant. You may want to consider sanding the back of that hidden-side-drive-bay acrylic so you still get red but a frosted effect on the side closest to the metal to help hide the wiring. sKuLLs' comment really made me notice that even more; it sticks out more because the other side is so, well, perfect.
I am glad you agree. Every inch of our machines should look as good as possible (top/bottom/inside-out). That is what it's all about, the reason we are here. Draw-backs: time. and the machine is never "really finish" there is always another tweak to make something look a little better. sKuLLs' comments are valid (and appreciated). I think once the MB area has it's red acrylic it will look more uniform. I plan to work on it tomorrrow. A few backwards-mounted MB mounts, red acrylic and stainless bolts should do the trick. Honestly the acrylic is not as transparent as the pictures show (f-stop 2.8=too much light). It's not a matter of how opaque the red acrylic is, as long as the whole area looks uniform..(IMO)..The panel just looks out of place. Red LED's. Your correct Red LED's are EZ. I like those little LaserLED units. For $2.50, you are really paying for the 360 Degree mounting base (but that is OK with me). As for yellow LED's can't say..never palyed with any. I was going to use two 4" UV CCFL for project SG, but it's not enough (lumens). I will switch to dual 12".. Please excuse me, I need another beer (my muse, my inspiration). MS
I had less time today then planned. So no time for acrylic. Yesterday I was playing with the two laser LED's I ordered. I left them on over night (along with my workhorse computer) only to awake to find one no longer working. It could have just been "a bad-one". Don't know, but I am now unsure about using them. I really want to stay away from CCFL. I have used the 3LED model in the past with no problems, perhaps I go with them or just make up my own single LED units..Also no luck on the short (4") SATA cables. I emailed http://pactech-inc.com/ about 4 days ago. No reply.
Do they have to be 4 inches exactly? You might want to check out these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...=1843&osCsid=eaaf89dfd53c1a5c06fa4fe77b434875 I've got stuff from them regularly, really good place.
Thanks for the link crimandevil, but that is a power cable. I am looking for a data cable. No, they don't need-be 4", but less than 6". I am unsure if I can make my own SATA's. I have no idea what's involved in terminating that cable..I guess I will have to do some research on the subject. BTW performance-pcs is indeed a good outfit. I ordered a few Bulgin Vandal switches from them @ a good price. Thanks! MS
Been watching this one for a bit now and am very impressed with the work going onto it looks good kinda made me realize i havn't really been doing anything lately so have now started a lianli v1000 with water cooling but going the P4 route. keep up the good work
Haha I guess I didn't really look at it. EDIT-- Okay I found one: http://www.frozencpu.com/sat-45.html
I think it was my fault..I just said 4" SATA cable. But 6" is too long. I have been thinking...I could use longer ones ( 10"-18") go from the hard drives-UP to the top panel of the case (wire-stealth) and then-DOWN to the MB. Hell, I may have no other choice.
http://www.vt100.nl/index.php?action=view&id=3558&archive=1&lang=en Well, its a dutch site... but 10cm is around 3.93 inch! So, maybe your dream of 4" Sata connector is possible? (As far as I know most S-ATA uses 7-pins?) I hope it helps...
Funny, I was just about to send the same link. But yes, 4" SATA cables do exist. Find a picture towards the middle of the page :here:. I'm Dutch (although living in the UK). If you need help getting some from vt100, let me know.
, Just a sec faster here... Dutch and living in the UK? Emigrant!!! I've tuts on the net about shortening your longer cables... but it's all quite messy and risky.. unnecessary in the end. edit: Nexxo, that link is dead here? :\
Works fine from this end... EDIT: sent the guy an e-mail asking about colour and whether he delivers to the UK or US.
/offtopic/ argh, strange.... After hitting refresh six time, the link appears to be alive... I was about to check my router configuration /offtopic/
More Red Acrylic I finally made up the red acrylic cover for the motherboard's back side. My original idea of using MB standoff's (mounted backwards) will not work, not enough clearance,clarence. I ended up using a few small pieces of velcro to hold the MB cover in place. Both panels still need to have there edges sanded/polished and there alignment tweaked. Please, no grief about the wiring on the bottom of the case. I have yet to address that area. Next. I am thinking about another red cover for that area, or perhaps mirrored acrylic. The Saga Continues: Until next time
Love the project, you're doing a great job But, I have a suggestion. Why not just tap some holes in the motherboard tray and attach the acrylic like that? Would go better with the other peices and you wouldn't have that velcro to look at.
