There is still alot of work and planing to be done before I put those stencils to work. I hope to finish the black (pearl) paint this weekend. That will be my color coat. Then I need to lay-out the graphics and decide on colors for that layer. I plan on a black candy coat over the graphics, so they will not be very pronounced. It's known as "ghost" AKA: ghost flames or ghost skulls in the case of this case.... So what I am saying is this will take time..
Airbrush: Skull Wall I spent the better part of the day playing around with paint ideas for the project. I did a test of the black pearl I was going to use for my base color..Don't like it..It looks too metallic and not dark (black) enough for me. I will go with a jet black.. I decided to mess with the stencils from ARTOOL Products. They work pretty well. I painted a old case side panel jet black. Then with a Badger 360, airbrushed a area with transparent white and transparent apple green "squiggly" lines very EZ. Then I used the SkullMaster stencil. Using detail black with 30psi actually holds the stencil in place works great. This is a 10"x7" section of the side panel, lots of skulls.. After stenciling the skulls, I went back and did some freehand detail in jet black (I actually gave up, I spent about 5-hours airbrushing)..But you get the idea. I think it might have looked better without the green, but that is why I did the test-panel. Bottom line. The stencils work great, and are EZ to work with! A few more pictures, until next time.. www.ArtoolProducts.com
I never use a block for wetsanding..I like to "feel-the-metal" when it feels slippery...it's done..I did not sand that panel at all...No reason..just playing with graphic design Mr.deadly..
more amazing things! I had a Paasche VL years back, but I was never able to get satisfactory results from it. Might have something to do with the fact that I ran so many different mediums throught it: acrylic, enamel, water color. I didn't take very good care of it either, but i was only about 12-15 at the time. How do you plan on tiling the design? I'm curious to see how you're going to play that out over the whole surface. mod on, modsquad!
wouldnt it give you a better finish if you used a block? I mean i understand using a block on sharp curves and stuff is impossible, but with a flat i would usually use a block...
Perhaps. I have never had a problem with the "old-school" technique. Wetsand (colorsand) until it feels smooth, dry the piece off. Look for "shiny-spots"...sand those areas again. Your ClearCoat will fill 1800/2000 grit sanding scratches. You need to be careful with curves and edges..If you "cut-through" your color coat it's time to paint again. I just feel More-in-Charge w/o a sanding block..
Paasche is a GOOD company. You have to keep an airbrush VERY clean for it to do it's job. I like the Badger 360 for detail. Gravity feed or bottom feed by rotating the head. pencil thin--to 2" with one nozzle/needle.. I also use (I am a Badger fan) a 175 for 1"--to 3". It has a good "feel" for big jobs (using the thing for hours). I also have there 400 model (I will use it for the projects clearcoat) 1" to 5"@30psi.. Tools of the trade..
soooo shiny! Is that single or double action? The hardest part of the VL was the doble action. Well, viscocity was harder than that, but as far as controling the material goes. I also suspect that my compressor was partly to blame (Paasche D500 1/10hp) as I didn't have a regulator or a water trap, just ran straight off the pump with the needle valve to regulate pressure. Looking back I can see why it wasn't a good setup (damp northern basement) and led to my frustration and disuse. Perhaps someday I'll get back into model building. well, now that we've completely derailed the thread topic, let's try and stay focused.
It's double action. Single action brushes are not much different than a can of spray paint (no control). I am using the same compressor (but with a regulator)
Hey, great work on the case, cool theme as well. I know I have got to get an airbrush now though, thats just damn cool.
Thanks Sanatarium. Airbrushing is fun, but I hate cleaning the brush after the session. Needles/nozzles and spray regulators--take it apart, put it back together..But I guess that is the price you must pay.
Modsquad, The is coming along quite awesomely !!!! I'm a huge fan of yours, I've been watching the BN from day one, just got in on this one..... ~ Subsribed ~ Good luck, I just ordered all my plexi from Chris at Cutting Edge for Jays Beast. Can't wait for it to arrive so I can start work on the inside..... Are you located in the states? or the UK? I was wondering if I could possibly get some airbrush work done....
Thanks J_Web. I am in the US. But, there is no way I could take on anymore work at this point. My "plate is full". Sorry. There are many guys who could help you, and they are All better painters then I am.. http://www.be-unique.com/airbrush/bookmark.asp
I have been working the owner of the case to come up with a graphics lay-out. The case will have the skulls around both windows, and some sort of design on the dead-side of the case (still looking/thinking).. More soon.
Nice mod I'm just wondering, why didn't you swivel the 360 around and just use the siphon feed feature? I myself have a badger 155, and a PeaK c5.
Your Badger 155 and my 360 are almost the same brush. The 360, as you stated lets you gravity feed or bottom feed. If I am painting something small like the black I shot over the stencil it is EZer to use the gravity feed (less to clean up afterwards). I shot the white and apple green via siphon feed. No tools needed to change from gravity to siphon, just rotate the frontend.. Do you have a link for the PeaK c5? Honestly, I am not familiar with the unit. I Googled w/o any luck. MS
