Software He is the Animal in Me

Photoshop painting done with WACOM Graphire4 in CS2. Total working time: 4 hrs, including blank stares at the screen -lmao-. I would have loved to have refined the gradients especially in the left hand, but I was quite pressed for time (as in I did this at 2 o' clock and it was due at 6)

It's a slightly modified (eyes and teeth) portrait of my boyfriend that I did for my life drawing final. 1/4 anyway

 

very impressive!

 

I want a tablet so much... Did you have trouble getting used to it? What's the learning curve in your experience?

 

Excellent! I've got a wacom and know how much of a pita they are!

 

I didn't think it was much of a PITA. My stroke is short so the 4x5 is nice, and fits on my desk The learning curve was interesting, it took a while to get my eye used to looking at the screen instead of the tablet. Every so often I'd have to look to see where I'm placing my hand on the tablet instead of the monitor. I've had it for over a year now and it's something like second nature. I even take it to life drawing classes with my laptop (CS3).

If you want more control, get the Intuos series, becuase it has double the pressure sensitivty points. 1024 as opposed to 512. I learned on the graphire and you can still do amazing things with the cheaper models, if you practice.

Just for reference, I'll post the first drawing I ever did with this:


http://www.deviantart.com/deviation/35795955/

Heh you can see how my art has improved too.

 

Cool

I really need to start using my tablet, I've had it for years and only used it for a few hours, I get pee'd off too easily if I can't do something straight away.

What brushes and tools did you use, I dont suppose you could do a quick run down on the process too?

 

That's very nice, great bit of art. I really want a tablet too, but alas, time is short as is money

 

Actually for the original drawing, I only used the round brush of varying sizes and opacities. I always have the brush settings set for pen pressure for Shape and Other Dynamics (including opacity jitter) but I also adjust the brush's master opacity using the bar on the top, it allows me even more control since my pressure sensitivity isn't as high as some more professional models of this product by wacom. I had been using it in Photoshop 7.0, but now everything seems even better in CS2/CS3, and I can't exactly explain why. It almost seems like the tablet 'interacts' better with it, or something silly.

But to give a quick run down... I treat it like traditional media, with only a few layers (esp for portraits and illustration. Game level design and environments, I usually have over 20 layers so I can take out things I dont like). The first layer is the background gradient or color I want to work off of, almost like working with colored paper. You can use several different filters, including Canvas, to give it a false texture, gives it a NICE look though, I haven't experimented enough with it. The 2nd layer is the main layer I use for all my blocking in. I still use a pencil to find angles when drawing from life. Instead of holding it in front of a paper, I trace that angle onto the computer screen with my other hand, using the pencil in front of me as a guide. If you've ever taken life drawing classes, you'll know exactly what I mean.

After that, I lay out the basic shadows, and using varying master opacities I block in the transitions. Then after I have that down, I actually adjust the physical color of my brush to mimic different shades of the background color, if the drawing is monochromatic. If I intend to make it a full color painting, I use a separate layer for color (usually flesh on one, clothes on another, metal on another etc etc). Also, for glow effects I always put them on another layer, no matter what. This is because I very often want to adjust them with layer effects or opacity or hue/saturation etc etc ad infinitum later on, I'm always so restless after a drawing is "done".

I also don't use the smudge tool at all. I use the regular round or the round with a feathered edge for smooth transitions especially where the face is in fact more saturated between the light an the dark. Stark highlights get the regular round brush with opacity at around 79-89 per cent. You just have to play with it, and will most likely develop your own methods and short hands.



For instance, Lucius here (A long WIP, haven't had the time) uses the purple of the background to tie in his pale skin tone to the dark shadows. I wanted him to look unnatural and warped by the gods of Chaos. <---40k freak. I used that instead of the deep red-tinged saturation that is often found on human beings. Ever color is on a separate layer.

If you are serious about digital art and illustration I recommend the magazine Imagine FX. It has all sorts of brush packs and such, though I don't use them much (I need to get cracking on that... texture brushes can make or break a piece sometimes).

That's all I can think of to say now, feel free to ask specific questions and ye shall get specific answers ^^;

 

Yay! Another 40K nut - I always wanted to sculpt a model of Lucius the Eternal, but every time something would go wrong, or the green stuff wouldn't have gone off so I put my hands on a piece thats supposed to be nice and dry and lo and behold its smooshed out of all proportion.

Love both pics!!!

Joe

 

Once bitten!twice shy!