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Scratch Build – In Progress ITX Architecture (Sponsored) Completed 15th of April 2015

Discussion in 'Project Logs' started by GregEl, 6 Mar 2015.

  1. GregEl

    GregEl Member

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    [​IMG]

    Greetings from Greece. This is my first project log in this forum and my third ever.
    I would like to thank my sponsors for making this build possible.
    Cooler Master Hellas, ASRock Hellas and Bitspower.

    Here is a concept image for the build
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    The build will include some 3D printed parts
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    Parcels from Bitspower and HighFlow.nl have arrived
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    The fittings are amazing and I think they will fit the build very nice. Especially at the short routes.
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    I made the base from a white acrylic 5mm panel
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    Some detail about the fit of the radiator and reservoir.
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    I am designing 2 vertical panels. One will screw on the radiator and the base panel, while the other will support the reservoir when I fill the loop.
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    The motherboard and PSU have arrived from the sponsors and the o-ring cord from e-bay. And from this point and on the photos will be with better lighting :)
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    Two macro shots to understand the amazing finish of the heatshinks.
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    PSU time
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    Very good finish on the PSU as well and a very nice construction. So nice that I am actually sad, because there will not be a lot of the PSU visible in the end. The cables below will be cut to the right lengths and sleeved with paracord without heat shrink.
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    And time for more fit checks and measurements.
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    I am very pleased with the PSU fit between the cubes.
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    A good fit, but the left part (in picture) of the 3D printed cover will be 1mm thinner. This cover is just for testing and measurements and is nothing like the final cover.
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    And this is the cage for the HDD. In height it is a very good fit-alignment. Maybe the motherboard spot will need little adjustment for the riser cable.
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    Also the drive will not be at the edge, but it will be adjusted according to the cubes that will join the panels.
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    And to finish this post, the cage without the HDD. I will probably flip the drive with the cage and screw the GPU base on the bottom part of the drive. The drive itself is screwed from the sides.
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    That is all for now. I hope you find my build interesting.

    I am designing the vertical support panels and when enough are ready I will post an update.

    Stay tuned!
     
    Last edited: 15 Apr 2015
  2. Hukkel

    Hukkel James' minion

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    Watercooling routing plate is always a sub from me.
     
  3. griso

    griso Member

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    Looks good. How long it take to print these parts?
     
  4. Bartacus

    Bartacus Member

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    Subbed!
     
  5. GregEl

    GregEl Member

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    Thanks. About 3 hours for the fan grill with the "front" usb. A bit less for the 120 grill and almost 4 hours for the HDD cage. I am printing at medium speed and normal (0.2mm) layer height. I can print with better settings but it won't affect the end result much.
     
  6. GregEl

    GregEl Member

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    ITX Architecture (Sponsored) Updated 13th March

    UPDATE

    I wanted to have more done, mainly sleeving before I posted an update, but the build has started to take shape and I decided to post some photos.

    I cut 4 more panels
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    I would love to have a desktop cnc like shapeoko or a laser cutter. Anyway, for handmade I think they turned out well.
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    This part is the one that reminds me of architecture and was the inspiration for the name of the build.
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    I cleaned the radiator and I would like to note that I was a bit disappointed with alphacool. The G1/4 threads were not done properly. The threads were made only with a starting tap and a finishing tap was not used. Fortunately I had ordered taps for the routing plate from Cold zero and fixed the threads myself.
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    The PSU is in place and secured with 4 screws.
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    To fill the loop I will have to rotate everything by 90 degrees and rest the case on its back side.
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    And one more thing from the 3D printer to end the update.
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    I will start sleeving and design the base and cover for the motherboard to 3D print.
    That is all for now. I thank you for your attention.
     
  7. Impeccable Logic

    Impeccable Logic Member

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    Unique. Like it!
     
  8. montymole

    montymole Rigid Tubist

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    very interesting :) subbed
     
  9. GregEl

    GregEl Member

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    Warning! Μajor update incoming!

    Sleeving is done and I set up the system with air cooling.
    I am waiting for the watercooling routing plate from Parvum Systems and I am designing a few more panels.

    I started the set up like this
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    I placed the 3 SSD drives, the switch and passed all the cables through the slim cut out
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    It is pretty tightly packed in there, but I do like to have no wasted space in general.
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    The two SSDs towards the radiator are Vetrex 4 120GB in raid 0 for the OS. The third SSD is a 840 evo 250GB used as a games drive.
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    The motherboard is in place
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    I tried to paint the IO shield white, but I decided to print it in one piece with the base of the motheboard in the end.
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    Overall the fit is good
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    Now, please calm down! The motherboard lid is not the final one!
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    I definitely want the 24-pin to not pass through the lid but from the side like the sata cables and the rest. I will also somehow guide the 8-pin to have a more horizontal route.
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    You might have guessed how much I like paracord
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    The motherboard is screwed to the acrylic back with one screw only and the other 3 screws just hold the 3D printed back. However the 3D printed base is also adhered to the acrylic with double sided stickers, so it is very stable and secure in place. I am not sure if the cpu cut out will be enough to change coolers without removing the motherboard.
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    I also placed the HDD and PSU. Every cable is connected, except the pump and radiator fans.
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    The tubing is there temporarily just to see how easily they fit through the cables.
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    Yes, you are correct, the 24 pin is with an extension. I know it is stupid, but I did it for 2 reasons. One reason is that I can disconnect it without struggling with the connector on the motherboard (like for leak testing) The second reason is that the original 24-pin has a lot of double wires in a single pin and is a 18+10 pin on the psu side, so it would be a nightmare if I wanted to paracord sleeve that. Of course I shortened the original and used the rest of the cables to make the extension. The final total cable is shorter than the original. Happy days.
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    I am waiting for a 2mm thick frosted acrylic sheet to screw on top of the HDD and use as support for the GPU. For now I used some foamboard.
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    The graphics card is in place. It is not screwed in place but with the pci-e riser and the 6+8pin it sits quite stable.
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    And the system as it is now.
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    That is all for now. I hope you liked the update. Thank you for your comments and subs.
     
  10. GregEl

    GregEl Member

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    Teaser time!

    I printed something else
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    It is the final(probably) cover for the motherboard.
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    And I got the routing plate from Plexiglass Masters, a local cnc acrylic shop.
    I would like to thank Mr. Diamantis from plexiglass masters for the excellent cnc work.
    Unfortunately Parvum Systems have not responded for a while now, although they responded positively at first.
    I will get bored of taps in the next few days.
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    First attempts were successful
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    I hope to have the routing plate ready by the weekend to start setting up the water cooling parts.

    Stay tuned!
     
  11. GregEl

    GregEl Member

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    Well it's done!
    There are some things I would do differently, if I were to make this again, but I will mention them later.

    Final pics!

    The new motherboard lid. It does not look like a TUF armor but as an idea I like it better. I am satisfied with the result.

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    The watercooling routing plate is ready! No leaks with a white silicone o-ring I got.
    I would like to thank Pixel Brothers (.gr) for the excellent work on the stickers. They prepared them quickly and they were applied carefully. Very good professionals!
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    And the result from a lot of different angles
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    At the desk and ready. I took the side lid off to change the pump speed so that I can bleed the air bubbles easier.
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    I wanted to make a video (I had chosen a soundtrack for it) while filling the loop (like p0Pe's Project NV), but I don't have the right setup regarding lights, space and support yet.
    Sorry...

    Regarding the temperatures I am very pleased. First tests went very well. 15 minutes furmark gave a GPU max of 40 C.
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    I am getting CPU max 60C και GPU max 42C.

    Regarding noise it's ok. Maybe the grills I printed increase the noise a bit.
    I will try the fans at pull and with a filter to test.
    I have the pump at sysfan and the fans with a y-splitter at the CPU fan slot.

    What would I do differently now that I have the experience.

    First I would do as much as possible with cnc and more(proper) tools. The jigsaw is an excellent tool, but with only a line as a guide you can't have a detailed assembly. It would increase the cost of course, but having a cnc and a proper workshop is a goal of mine since I started modding 2 builds ago.

    Second changes to the design. I would place the water cooling routing plate further and maybe use only a white sticker with a better design. The sandblast served its purpose in this build and it at least matches the water blocks. Something I will do at future builds is to design the case as a puzzle from compartments and not as a single piece assembly. In this build the SSDs are nicely hidden, but removing them is anything but easy. That is because they are mounted on the same panel the radiotor is and from the inside.

    Third different watercooling parts! The fittings are very nice, but if the routing plate was further I could have used larger fittings with double o-rings for the tubing or compressed o-rings. And regarding blocks 100% I am not considering EK again for now. Only Bitspower now for me! Sure EK blocks are beautiful. But Supremacy cracked with just hand tightening (last time I checked I am not Superman, I think that actually my fingers are not strong to be honest)
    The 280x CSQ got dirty from my last build but I can't get it cleaned and the dirt is at places were the liquid does not reach for some reason. Off course with a different design with idividual compartments that fit together, some connections would have been different.

    That is all for the conclusion.

    I hope you liked the build.
    I am sure I forgot to mention something, so I am waiting for comments.
     
  12. Bygone

    Bygone Member

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    I just love the acrylic panel with built in tubes, how do you create such a panel?
     
  13. GregEl

    GregEl Member

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    Digital calipers, patience and Autodesk Inventor software for the design (I actually designed every acrylic piece like this). Then off to your local cnc shop with a good amount of money in your pocket :)
    Just think of the o-ring cord you will need to use so that the milled channels don't leak. I designed the grooves for 33% compression for the o-ring.

    This was my first try at something like this. Something I learned is that silicone o-ring cord is perfect for this type of construction and nitrile not so much. Also make everything with the right tools! If I had done more with cnc and proper tools the result would have been like factory made. Then I would have designed a better honeycomb and pcb themed front vinyl and use blue screws.
     
  14. Bygone

    Bygone Member

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    Thanks for the clarification :), im still new to this, and am just sucking in information as i go atm, sofar my skills have been limited to 2d drawings through inkscape for the panels i have made (without tubing ofc) for my first project log ever.
     
  15. GregEl

    GregEl Member

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    2D vector drawings are just as good! The local cnc shop I went to, required 2D vector files for my panel and depth measurements. 3D software just helps so much with visualization and checking for errors.

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    Inventor especially has amazing tools for modeling something that you will actually make. Holes, threads, fillets, patterns, assembly etc is so much easier with this program. All 3D printed parts were also designed with Autodesk Inventor.

    BTW I just noticed today that I am nominated for MotM! :blush:
     
  16. Ocelot

    Ocelot Member

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    Interesting concept I'm curious how it will look when it's done. Routing plates are always interesting, although I'm not sure I like the sticker on it. It must be cool to have parts manufactured for you right on your desk.
     
  17. Vognen

    Vognen Member

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    I believe it is done Ocelot, since the pictures in his last post are titled with "Final Pictures" :lol:
    A very out of the box build. Not something I would ever have thought of, but nice looking nonetheless :thumb:
     
  18. Ocelot

    Ocelot Member

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    Oh damn, that's embarrassing. Sorry GregEl, I didn't realize it was done. I just assumed from the size and shape of the routing plate and the radiator being partly exposed that It would become a cube shaped enclosure. I didn't mean anything by it.
     
    Teelzebub likes this.
  19. GregEl

    GregEl Member

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    No worries, I understand! I was thinking of making more covers. For the radiator, the back of the GPU and the back IO for cable management. Once I got the water cooling done though, I felt it is fine as it is and my goals to experiment were achieved.

    I have many more ideas for cases that I would like to try. Maybe I will do an ITX Architecture revisited build when I get more and better tools to create with. But for now I am satisfied with the build and at least in my opinion it is complete.

    Thank you all for your comments!
     
  20. Complx

    Complx New Member

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    I always love seeing water channel panels on systems. I really want to try to make one for my next build.
     

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