I received my work laptop a few days ago and think I need a KVM switch. Sadly my Dell monitor only has a single HDMI port and I don't think it likes my witching the HDMI cable a repeatedly. Are these all the same and why don't they put all ports on the back?
Mine are both DVI, I'm sure his laptop won't have a DVI output. I can highly recommend the TESmart devices, I have a 4 port HDMI model. Assuming you are looking for 4k 3840@60Hz support, this one will fit the bill: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TESmart-HDMI-Switch-3840x2160-60Hz-Red/dp/B07F8NVMH7. I have tried loads of brands, only Aten, Avocent and TESmart have been any good. I can go into this in more detail, especially the pitfalls of crappy devices, if you like?
Never heard of them until you posted this so I don't know, sorry. Make sure you get one that supports your monitor resolution and refresh rate, a lot of cheap ones are only 30Hz. The better ones (like the Aten & TESmart) allows you to run the k/b & mouse in USB mode - as opposed to the normal emulation mode. This is a bigger deal than it sounds when you use gaming keyboards and mice with high polling rates. I could not get any KVM I tried to support the stupidly high polling rate on my gaming k/b & mouse until I switched them to USB mode, even the Aten and TESmart. In emulation mode the k/b & mouse would sometimes disappear when switching. For me it took a lot of trial and error to find the right solution.
Also, if you're using a switch for your mouse/keyboard, make sure USB Sleep is disabled. I kept finding that one machine would stop recognising their inputs if i had been using the second machine too long, took me ages to work out that it was the USB controller/power settings putting it to sleep
@Fingers66 I'm not sure if I can get work to sign off on an £80 switch. Which models should I avoid if I can't get them to pay for it in full or in part.
Instead of a KVM switch, look at an HDMI switch, much cheaper. You'll have to use two k/b & mice but it will cheaply solve your lack of monitor HDMI ports.
I found the switch you recommended was much cheaper on eBay, under £50 vs £80+ on Amazon. Taking a quick look, you are right. It can be much cheaper with separate HDMI and KB/M switches.
After being sent two 2 KVM switches that were limited to 1080p (RRSP £227.99 GBP) I ordered the TESmart @Fingers66 recommended. The the switch looks nice, its slim and it has a ugly wall wart with a short cable. I'm beginning to love the USB to DC cables many cheap electronics ship with. Need an analog to optical convert? plugs into TV with USB - brilliant! As the cable for the TESmart is too short to reach I have two choices, an extension cable or a USB to DC cable. As my power strip is already full, I'm wondering, how many of these small devices could I shift to a USB 3.0 power hub? It makes a lot of logistical sense as you don't need to worry about UK/EU/US plug types. Can this be replaced with a USB to DC cable? The device says DC 5V. I don't know why this isn't powered by the USB cable it uses to connect to the computer.
Its 2 Amps. Many computers probably can't supply that much through their usb port. If yours can supply 2Amps then it would probably be okay.
Should be fine as long as you don't overload it (2400mA per port and/or 12 amps total). I tend to label USB powered devices that require 2A though so I don't just plug them into a low powered port at some point.
Do you have one with USB or just an HDMI switch? I've been playing undermine and the controls feel really odd. Something like input lag and maybe stickiness, as in the character moves further than intended like joystick drift. I don't know if this is an issue with this switch or if it is defective. Is it possible to test this issue?
Mine is as per the link I posted, never had a problem with it. I can't remember if they have a "bios" that switches the mode of the USB ports from KVM mode to USB mode. I'll have a look at mine later when I'm upstairs.
