Hi BT forums. For my first post id like to share some info on a great product that i have been using for some time, going way back to building scale model kits for comps and displays. It works well with clear plastics like that used in wiondows on models, we used to thin the plastic down and remove warping so interior details could be viewed clearly. As for paint jobs, it gives the 'scale' effect on 1/24 cars to make them appear more realistic. But.......lets get to what it can do for your PC modding experience. It's a simple set of super fine grit cloths called MicroMesh I have recently used it to lap my CPU and HSF, and am currently modding my case and its a definate that it will be used to polish the paintwork and remove any blemishes on perspex surfaces. The basic method is similar to most other lapping/sanding procedures, but it involves the use of more grits. I start with normal automotive 1000 grit/wet and then 1200 grit/wet, then start the micomesh scales from 1500,1800,2400,3200,4000,6000,8000 and 12000, all wet. You should only use light pressure on a level surface, add a tiny drop of detergent into the water. Finally use a soft cloth and the finishing compound until you have a mirror finish [click images to enlarge] Use the same method for paintwork and perspex, this stuff can remove any marks or even scratches from you case windows or glossy plastic surfaces. It will also create a gloss finish from any dull plastics. It is expensive, but its reusable and durable. I'll be starting a worklog soon of my mod project Have fun.
you could use the 12k to get rid of hemoroid or two or you could use that old wax paper the schools used to use for a finishing buff...IIRC that stuff used to smear more than wipe.....lol
The paper has only been around for about a year or so. I have been using it to finish Acrylic pen parts turned on a lathe.
Of course the question is - Is there any benefit? I mean in terms of temperatures, obviously you get some 'forum cred' for doing it to such a level but the IHS on your CPU is not something that you can show off under normal conditions (it's somewhat hidden away!). I would think that 1200 grit would provide the same result in terms of temps.
I actually got this set for free (smaple) from an online distributor way back in 2003. And before that (1996-2000), we used to get it from 1/48th Wings and Things, Kitchener Ontario for scale model building. the owner Don, used to get A4 sized sheets of it for his (real) hot rod projects, some of the best paint jobs ive ever seen to this day. This stuff was his secret sauce. Ive shaved off 8-9 degrees with this lap, joined the CPU/HSF with a light almost liquid solution of arctic silver (mixed with goo-gone) the same viscosity of milk. Fair enough its a shitty old CM GeminiI with 2 old Hyper case fans on it, but its silent, overclocked, helps keep the RAM and NB cool and needs less TIM. Q6600 @ 3.40Ghz, 425FSB, x8 Multi, 1.336v (comfortable for what i need right now) Load temps are 58-62 across 4 cores, idle temps are 37-40, room temp is bloody hot today!!! And of course, its not just a lap job you can get to a deep mirror finish with this stuff, think about your paint job, think hot rod show cars!!! cheers
^as he said. This stuff has been around quite a while. I've used it on plastic car models. At one time Eastwood and Micro-Mark used to sell it. There are also jeweler's rouge compounds that are this fine but cost more than what you are lapping. john
You thinned out your TIM? Isn't Goo-Gone a solvent (did you let it boil away first)? Does this work as a permanent solution, or does it need reapplying later? Sorry, so many questions, but I've never heard of someone thinning out their TIM and it sounds quite interesting for lapped surfaces. Oh, and 8/9*C, way to go! Lapping usually shaves off 2/3*C, so this really is a job well done!
i've had a load of this stuff for years, good stuff. Although i have been running out and my current left over scraps are starting to look rather nackered.
Mixing it like this leaving traces of the TIM where its needed, when its pressured together. of course i only tested it once but it worked rather well (still running the same after 3 months continuous use) Thinning out the TIM made sense to me, as both surfaces are flat and have ultra smooth and flat mirrored surfaces, arctic silver is a pain to get a fine, very fine layer evenly. 8-9 degrees reduction were my initial observations, its about 5-6 now as the room temps are way up (overclocking and summer suck) I just did a bit of trial and error really, since i didnt have the money to get my H20 finished off. (Half of it has 'mysteriously' gone missing at my old workplace) This cooler was my best and cheapest chance to continue my overclocking. (for CPU and board cooling) For a thought, i rekon with some decent fans with high CFM i could get close to 4Ghz (7 or 8 x500) with this HS and current setup. With the current fans i can pump 1.475 (tested so far) into them and it hovers at 74-76 for an hour in OCCT, the fans just cant keep the temps down. And then there is the question of the NB and VRM's as they need some air loving too. Any personal recommendations for some decent high CFM fans, ive seen some nice enermax products lately. Ill have to get some screenies loaded up and see what can be done, although bear in mind as soon as im back to work the H20 is being finished off.
Ill dig out the old sample paperwork i aquired back in 2003, if they are still in business, i would recommend 'asking' them about thier product, menbtion scale model building and you should get a sample pack with a full grade of grit cloths (6"x3" iirc, some sanding sticks and some finishing solution) Ill PM you.
For serious balls to the wall cooling, get a fan by Delta Electronics, but be warned, they can be LOUD!
OH KNOW THE BLOODY DELTA THING, lol I used to have an 80mm focussed flow (P4/AXP days), the thing used to hover on the desk and make pidgeons fly into the windows
Sure it's a perfect finish, but I do have some doubts about the improvement in temperatures... I've always told to myself there's no point in going over P800 when lapping, unless you just want to admire a mirror finish... After all the difference in temperature mainly comes from making both the IHS and the base of the cooler FLAT rather than shiny. Good job anyway, I had no idea there are such papers, I've only used P2000 sometimes and that already felt like it did nothing
I can remember the two 80mm Delta "Screamers" I had hooked up as exhaust fans, years ago (not sure if they were the same as the one you refer to?)... I made the mistake of wiring them up without a speed controller - oops. You could almost hear it on a different floor of the house. I also made the mistake of catching my finger on the blades once - I thought I was going to need stitches...
