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Cooling Modding a Laing DDC Pump to Increase Flow

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by coolmiester, 12 Mar 2005.

  1. coolmiester

    coolmiester Coolermaster Legend

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    Just finished replacing the 3/8" inlet on one a Laing DDC pump with a 1/2" barb to increase flow rate so for anyone wanting to give it a try here goes...

    This will take the normal standard 6.5mm ID barb to 10mm ID

    Still waiting on glue to dry properly before testing but i'll post an update later to see how much the flow has increased.

    Obviously this will void the warranty of the pump so make sure your prepared to run that risk if anything were to go wrong!

    First up, turn the pump onto its back and unscrew the 4 screws which hold the pump together (indicated by the red arrows)
    [​IMG]

    Put the base and motor to one side as it's the top bit that needs to come under the knife or drill in this case :lol:
    [​IMG]

    I was planning to use a Danger Den Hi-Flow barb but once i got the pump to bits it soon became apparent that it wouldn't work to well as the thread on the barb would be to long so i ended up chopping a 90 degree elbow (red arrow is approx where it was cut) making sure to leave the rim on which would help when gluing later.
    [​IMG]

    Once it was cut down i just cleaned up the ragged edge with some fine wet 'n dry.
    [​IMG]

    Now onto drilling the top...... i used a 12.5mm drill to go completely through the top using the inlet hole that was already there as a guide. The plastic is quite brittle so care needs to be taken not to crack the whole thing.
    [​IMG]

    Once the hole was drilled i used a dremel to clean off the remainder of the inlet pipe and also just to generally clean off ragged edges followed by a quick sand down for a smooth surface so the barb sat flush in the hole.......you can also chop the inlet barb completely off as this will no longer be needed ;)
    [​IMG]

    The underneath should also be checked to make sure the barb doesn't protrude through as this would interfere with the motor and could stop it spinning.
    [​IMG]

    Once i was happy that the barb fitted in and everything was nice and true i mixed up some 2 part quick drying Araldite which would be more that strong enough to make the join completely water tight.
    [​IMG]

    It's then just a simple case of running a bead of glue around the hole.....dropping the barb into place which will push any access glue out and then running a bit more around to make a complete seal.
    [​IMG]

    Leave that to dry for an hour or so and then put the top back on......not forgetting the rubber "O" ring which seals the two half's of the pump together and its then ready for leak testing to see if its had the desired effect
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Nexxo

    Nexxo Queue Jumper

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    I don't know whether a larger diameter barb will make a lot of difference, but other modding attempts have already established that straightening the inlet barb (to point straight upwards) does considerably. I'll be interested to see how this one pans out.
     
  3. Hamish

    Hamish New Member

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    be interesting to see if this actually makes any difference, im currently just using 1/2" clearflex onto it and have clamped it with hoseclamps, works well
    such a nice quiet pump too :D
     
  4. coolmiester

    coolmiester Coolermaster Legend

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    Seems to make quite a bit of difference to the LPM

    >>Updated Pump Info Thread<<

    Be interesting to see what it does to the temp of my GFX card which was running at 48 degrees before hand with an NV-68 block.

    Guess i'll have to wait till i get it all back together!
     
  5. Nexxo

    Nexxo Queue Jumper

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    As I said, it is likely that it was not the increased diameter of the barb that did the trick, but the fact that you removed the 90 degree elbow on the inlet.
     
  6. Mister_Tad

    Mister_Tad Super Moderator Super Moderator

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    whoah-ho
    that is some good work :thumb:
    i think that's me sold, next time i drain mine i'll be buying one of these most likely. I absolutely love my 1250 to bits but the thing is so feaking huge!
     
  7. KayinBlack

    KayinBlack Currently Rebuilding

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    Awesome work man, it's nuts like us that mod anything we can get our hands on that make stuff like this possible!
    I'm PMing you, I been playing with the Maze4 chipset on a VNF4 Ultra and I think I have some info that your DD customers could use...
     
    Last edited: 12 Mar 2005
  8. coolmiester

    coolmiester Coolermaster Legend

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    One way to find out.............i'll stick a 3/8" reducer on and see what happens!

    Cheers for that info KayinBlack it makes my life a whole lot easier :thumb:

    Mister_tad - i'm going to have a good bit play about with different pumps when i come to set up the dual NV-68's because like you say the 1250 is awesome for both power and silence but its just so bloody big so i'm going to weigh up all the pro's and cons.........i'm certainly drawn to this little fella though :thumb:
     
  9. slaw

    slaw At Argos buying "gold"

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    hi
    just wondering, did you have to seal the old input barb?
    looks great though, i am sorely tempted myself. that pump is just tiny

    :eyebrow:
     
  10. user0001

    user0001 New Member

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    When it dires, note any change in noise as I have heard that the DDCs sometimes make a whining noise. I still think the AquaExtreme (MCP650 basically) is the best 12v pump overall (considering noise, output, and size)
     
  11. Wang

    Wang New Member

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    MCP350 noise

    When I was leak testing the modded pump.(small loop,res-pump-res) I noticed that if the outlet tube touched the resevoir, the pump would whirr from the feed-back vibration.
    With NO feed-back/vibration, the pump is soooo silent. Everything turned off in my room, my ear had to be 4" from the pump to tell if it's even on!!

    So anyone with a whirr, isolate any tubes from the pump from vibrating against anything!

    The AquaExtreme is the MCP600, the MCP650 is a totally different pump and Manufacturer.

    I think the DDC has the MCP600/AquaExtreme beat.
    Flow-wise a modded DDC is equal or better.
    Noise-wise I remember Cathar mentioning the MCP600 had a low rumble, equal in noise to 2-4 Ehiem 1250s not vibrating.
    Size.. DDC is much smaller! :naughty:
    Warranty: MCP600/AquaExtreme 2yrs MTBF? -
    MCP350/DDC 5yrs MTBF 5yrs

    The DDC has NO rumble, properly isolated is virtually silent. Perhaps fully plumbed in a loop it may be noisier, but hear it over even a powersupply fan... I doubt it.
     
    Last edited: 13 Mar 2005
  12. Sc0rian

    Sc0rian Here comes the farmer

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    hehe paul I knew it wouldnt take you long:)

    - S
     
  13. coolmiester

    coolmiester Coolermaster Legend

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    Sc0rian - you knew i would :naughty:

    I just re-seated the modded DDC and i must of had it touching the chassis of the case previously as this time it is completely silent so i take back what i said about it not quite being as quiet as a 1250............i simple can't hear it at all this time.

    I'm liking this pump more and more :)

    Does anybody know if there are plans to bring it out with 1/2" tails because i doubt chopping up a brand new pump is everybody's idea of fun.

    Quick update also...

    Decided to encase the whole barb with glue just to be on the safe side which i doubt isn't necessary but seeing how this is going to be my new work PC i just wanted to eliminate all risks.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Leeum

    Leeum New Member

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    Nice work :clap:
     
  15. coolmiester

    coolmiester Coolermaster Legend

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    Sorry Slaw....missed that one :blush:

    No need to block the existing inlet barb off as you chop right through it when you drill the hole for the 1/2" barb....you can even take off the existing 3/8" inlet as it is totally redundant.

    Check out my PS skills which might explain it a bit better..
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Nexxo

    Nexxo Queue Jumper

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    Looks tidier that way also. I know those crazy Germans have been making some modified plexi tops for this pump, to fit plug&cool fittings. I wonder if it is possible to make some aftermarket modified plexi tops with 3/8" or 1/2" barbs, with the inlet barb straight in like in this picture. Of course, CNC'd aluminium with anodised interior would be really cool... :naughty: Hey, Enak...
     
  17. coolmiester

    coolmiester Coolermaster Legend

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    I was thinking more along the lines of Polarflo as they made the chrome CNC'd front for the D4 but i'm sure anyone with CNC access could have a go.

    Be good to see someone do it as it obviously works :)

    Doubt it will be to long
     
  18. kbn

    kbn New Member

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    Thats great work.. tempted to sell my d4 and get one of these now!

    Im wondering what effect there would be to change the outlet aswell?

    Also for a more secure joint, use threaded barbs.. but cut off the end so it doesnt hit the impeller.. still use glue iff needed.. but I think the thread will make it stronger.

    Why is the DDC so expensive??? priced the same as the d4...(which is more expensive now than when I bought mine) :(
     
  19. coolmiester

    coolmiester Coolermaster Legend

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    The top is only about 1mm thick so using a threaded barb wouldn't work.........i was planning on using a cut down DD hi-flow barb but there just isn't any room between the lid and the impeller.

    Would imagine price has gone up due to demand......think mine has stayed the same :)
     
  20. user0001

    user0001 New Member

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    Gah, I knew that! I keep getting the two mixed up along with the DDC (MCP350)! I've been thinking of getting the DDC based on the results most have had, but I'd be worried that the pump would end up leaking on me. Here is a link to a video comparing the 650 and 600 - its what originally attracted me to the 600. But, from what I can tell, a modded 350 looks to provide similar if not better flow and less noise. Also smaller.
     
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